The golden hour mesmerizes like no other

 

During one of the afternoons at Khao Yai National Park, it rained and we decided to try our luck at another birding location. After all, this whole area is Arjin’s playground because he is lucky enough to have a permanent residence here. He took us to an open country and scrubland type of habitat in Ban Ngoi with a peculiar bird in mind to brighten up our day. The Yellow-eyed Babbler behaves more like a Reed-Warbler more than anything else and thrives in an environment that is preferred by the latter as well. The first of these birds that we encountered actually fulfilled all the requirements for a lifer record – visual, call and image. But I was secretly hoping for something more.

We then drove to the next spot but not before obtaining a record shot of another lifer. The male Asian Golden Weaver in breeding colours is a sight to behold but he just would not oblige our photographic requests.

The target at the next spot was the Small Pratincole and from the air of confidence surrounding our guide, I would say this uncommon species is a regular here. Initially, we did our photography from the vehicle. The human form will probably put all forty of them to flight – yes, forty! And the look on this individual is not a positive sign at all.

We knew it was unlikely to come across this opportunity again and decided to put our fate to the test. We carefully got out of our vehicle and inched towards these unusual-looking waders.  The three of us went our separate ways. It is a big congregation after all. I found myself drawn to a particular individual and I followed what could only be my gut instinct.

To my surprise, the chosen one started to approach me instead and I immediately stopped moving and waited. I guess the unexplainable connection between me and this adorable little fellow was real after all.

Eventually it came closer than most wild birds would to a birder. You noticed that I used the word birder and not human. It is an unspoken truth (and personal observations) that birds of open country are extremely tolerant towards field workers. Present yourself as a birder and the posterior of the bird as it flies away is what you will get most of the time.

The Small Pratincole is sort of a personal bogey bird for my life list especially on home soil. And here, more than a thousand kilometers away, I can finally put that ‘tick’ to rest. Fortune favours the bold and, in this case, my life has certainly been enriched by the accommodating nature of this particular feathered individual.

I was so caught up in the moment that I lost track of my companions. When I came to, they were on the opposite side of the pratincole patch photographing a couple of Temmick’s Stint. Before leaving the vicinity, we encountered another species that was uncommon to us but the Oriental Skylark was just too far for any improvement shots.

We made another attempt at the Yellow-eyed Babblers but at a different spot. And this time, the birds were exceptional. My hope did come true and that does not happen often enough when birding.

There was a pair of them again and when I did some post-trip research, these birds are known to develop life-long bonds and encountering solitary birds would be rare. They also exhibited the inquisitive qualities typical of babblers. Thus, rebuking my earlier thoughts of them having an identity crisis.

As the sun gradually descended towards the horizon, the effects of the golden hour were added value to our photography. This Yellow-eyed Babbler was so accommodating that I found myself lost in those piercing eyes. And if eyes are indeed the windows to our souls, then this fascinating species has certainly entered mine.

Sitting in our vehicle parked next to some bushes overlooking a stream was not exactly a picture one would envision of birding in a far-off land surrounded by the wonders of nature. However, this unassuming location provided one of the most memorable photo sessions of the trip for me.

By the time we started our drive back to the hotel, it was already dark. And we finally got an owl in a nocturnal environment. The Eastern Barn Owl is a widespread species and its proficiency at keeping rats at bay makes it a welcomed member to any community.

All good things must come to an end and the final day of our Thai adventure came faster than anticipated – naturally. With a few hours to spare before we all parted ways, our guide presented us a parting gift by taking a detour across an agricultural land in Pak Phli at the outskirts of Bangkok City. The Plain Prinia is not new to us because we encountered this species a few times before but today, we were able to capture good images of this relatively common species.

Typical of this family of birds, it is active by nature and we had to constantly deal with its rapid movements. The bright lighting conditions was a double-edged sword. Although it helped my modest photographic gear to keep up with the Plain Prinias, the harshness effected the quality of the images. But I rather have sharp than ideally exposed photos anytime.

Before I embarked on this remarkable journey to Thailand, news broke out of Bluethroats wintering at one of my local patches in mainland Penang. I have recorded this species during my trip to Cambodia but it is a rare migrant to Malaysia nevertheless. No doubt a significant tick in my Malaysian life list as well. But a greater calling beckoned and I told myself I will gradually get round to this rare visitor after my big trip. Fast forward a week or so and here I am, in central Thailand, enjoying a striking male Bluethroat performing admirably in front of us. And I could not help but to feel the irony. It is not uncommon here in central Thailand but I guess a confiding individual like this one probably is.

There is no denying the beauty of a male Bluethroat though. The vivid blue throat and breast band complimented by the surrounding tinge of orange gave the impression that the bird ornamented himself with precious stones. I bet my fellow birders back home are just as enthralled.

After the exhilarating encounter with the Bluethroat, I was finally ready to go home. But the alluring bird life of central Thailand was not quite done yet.

The Striated Grassbird is another species very foreign to me. When we came across one perched right out in the open, I guessed this is not a common behaviour judging from the excitement in our guide’s voice. Either that or like yours truly, thinks it is an absolute stunner of the bird. And I am not saying this because it is a lifer. Just look at the wickedly long tail and bold markings on its upperparts. If this cannot get you excited, I do not know what will.

A Little Cormorant sunning itself would have received more attention from me if this species had not colonized and multiplied in my country in recent years.

The Bronze-winged Jacana has also amended its rare status in Peninsular Malaysia but not as significantly as the Little Cormorant. This attractive water bird is doing much better here in Thailand and this locality was no different. The presence of drab juvenile birds indicated another successful breeding season.

A striking adult bird that was a little more tolerant to our presence than the rest allowed a photo to be included in this post.

I could not help but to notice several soaring raptors in the vicinity. A habitat like this could produce notable species but the only one recorded was the Black Kite. It was not the only migrant that was conspicuous in this vast open landscape. Black Drongos were also present in big numbers which is not unusual as it should be as common here as in Peninsular Malaysia. One confiding individual provided a decent capture due to its close proximity. Photographing a black bird at a distance under harsh lighting can be a challenge.

The company that you have during birding trips also plays a vital role in determining the success of the outcome. Nigel and Kok Siong are both great companions and I have also known Nigel for a long time. This paragraph is my way of thanking them for having me on this trip and being a part in this fantastic chapter of my birding life. And that concludes our birding adventures in central Thailand. The Penang birder signing out for now.

Home of wildlife - Part 2

During our time in Khao Yai National Park, we ventured along a few forest trails hoping to catch some elusive denizens and it worked – to a certain extent. I may not be familiar with all the birdcalls in this region but Arjin is when it mattered the most. Birds calling coming from the undergrowth are not to be taken lightly especially when the first bird that comes to mind is a Pitta. Arjin confirmed my hunch and we tried every trick in the book to get a pair of foraging Eared Pittas to pose for a shot. Any kind of a shot. But it was not meant to be.

Anyway, the other trails that we took did reward us for our efforts. Broadbills also tend to reveal their presence due to their vocalizations. Unlike the ground dweller, this arboreal stunner eventually showed off its name’s sake for all to admire and the black band across the throat indicated that it was a male.

We were trekking along a trail leading to a waterfall at probably the hottest time one day. Perspiration, fatigue and hunger tempted us to take a much-needed break. Then we came across a section of the forest where a gap in the canopy allowed the sunlight to pierce through and illuminate it like it was centre stage. As fate would have it, a Blue-bearded Bee-eater was hunting in the limelight and the existence of a Greater Power could not be denied – for the time being.

The aerial predator chose this peculiar curvy vine because it was an ideal vantage point. But for us, this exposed perch was an exceptionally photogenic point.

Usually, one is more inclined to encountering strikingly coloured species for obvious reasons. However, there are always exceptions like the case of Minivets. I was just as exhilarated to come across a pale male because I knew he would soon be another addition to my list of lifers for this trip. The foliage prevented me for obtaining better images of the Rosy Minivet. But it did not hamper the thrill that comes with encountering a bird for the very first time.

We also took the time to appreciate the visitor centre and it was impressive. Our guide Arjin was particularly proud of his images being used for two of the backdrops here and he has every right to be. A group photo with his awesome work was a souvenior none of us would want to miss.

During this birding trip, I took things a little easier.  Even sat down for coffee at one time which is unheard of in the past. I guess the years are starting to take their toll on me.

And since we are talking about years, I celebrated my birthday this year in the wild interiors of Thailand. It may not be everyone ‘s cup of tea but I can think of no better way (apart from celebrating it with my better half) to start off another leg of my life journey than doing what I love best while I still can.

This idyllic lake near the entrance of the park was mesmerizing in evening light. A great place to reflect in every sense of the word and watch Brown-backed Needletails come for a drink.

Anywhere else this would appear unusual but it is the norm to come across a huge Sambar Deer trotting across the access road or just chilling in plain sight. This is a doe told by the absence of antlers.

The buck, on the hand, looks far more formidable with his majestic antlers. I did some research to satisfy my curiosity as to why they are so tame. I knew feeding is strictly prohibited within the national park and that is out of the question. The truth was a little surprising. Apparently, the deer found that being close to humans is safer than taking shelter in the forest where predators lurked especially the pack-living Dholes. So, now you know.

For that reason, you can admire up close and personal the true beauty of this elegant animal within the park compound. If I don’t know any better, they appeared to be enjoying human companionship as well.

The Indian Muntjac or Barking Deer is only half the size of the Sambar Deer and they too have found sanctuary among humans.

For some reason, we only saw a buck on one occasion only. He may be lacking in size but there is still lot of appeal to be appreciated especially when he provided a couple portrait.

There were signs of a true giant of the forest here and there during our explorations. However, I cannot be certain that I would want to actually come across Asian Elephants especially on foot and totally vulnerable. You will notice I did not embed a link to the Asian Elephant because everyone knows what an elephant looks like. If you don't, then I seriously think this blog is not for you (and by the way, this is the dung of the animal and not the animal itself).

The far-carrying territorial calls of the gibbon can be heard regularly in the park. However, they are a little underwhelming when compared to a few of the forest reserves back home. The immense size of the national could have an influence on this but it is not important to draw a conclusion here. The privilege of observing a family of White-handed Gibbons swinging across the forest with the grace of a ballerina is.

A little patience and luck later, one member of the family provided some of my best images of this agile primate. Khao Yai National Park has certainly lived up to its tagline and wildlife have found their little piece of heaven on Earth.

I am saving the best (mammal) for last. Porcupines are remarkably unique members of the animal kingdom. My only experience with them are the nocturnal encounters up in Bukit Larut where Brush-tailed Porcupines would scavenge for leftovers behind one of the rest houses. It seems that this is a common practice for these prickly creatures and The Malayan Porcupines (yes, plural) that we came across were foraging next to a ranger’s quarters or something like that.

Like most of the other mammals found within the borders of the park, they show very little fear of humans and we were able to truly admire their impressive spikes from a safe distance. I doubt the porcupines pose any threat to others unless provoked. A Red Junglefowl definitely did not have any qualms foraging alongside them. But some things are best left unproven.

One of the porcupines even wandered towards us and that gesture wiped out any chances of any other mammal peeping the Malayan Porcupine for top spot in my mammal list. Such an amazing creature...

Everyone in the group knew that observing pheasants here will be nothing like The Bird Hide. It was going to be hard work. And it was! A glimpse of white in the undergrowth can hardly justify a tick for an incredible species such as the Silver Pheasant. We actually saw him strolling along the road as we were exploring the isolated stretches by truck.  He was even flapping his wings and all to make sure we did not overlook his phenomenal presence. Once we took the bait, he would casually strolled into the dense vegetation of the undergrowth - twice. You read it right. We came across the Silver Pheasant twice minutes apart but could not be sure if it was the same individual. We tried to obtain some images but you and I know how that worked out.

Khao Yai National Park is home to another enigmatic pheasant but by the second day, it felt like we were fighting a losing battle for the Siamese Fireback. When another local guide showed us images of this very species taken earlier that morning, we decided to wait it out at the spot in the evening hoping for a repeat performance. And the next morning. Apparently, the Siamese Fireback is not a creature of habit and we found out the hard way.  A pair of vocalizing Coral-billed Ground-Cuckoos could have been fair compensation had they revealed more than their haunting territorial calls during our stake out for the pheasants. As we were about to drive out of the park for the final time, I caught sight of none other than a flock of Siamese Firebacks foraging next to the road. We only had seconds to position our vehicle and at the same avoided any accidents with the abrupt stop; focus and shoot. In the end, I obtained images only an owner can love.

Imagine the odds. If we had gone past a minute later or the male decided to retreat into the forest a minute earlier, the national bird of this country will remain a painful dip-out. Well, it ain’t over till the fat lady sings. Only thing is that it was no a fat lady but a cocky pheasant with stunning aesthetics. We had a few outstanding lifers with reasonably good images through our birding excursions here. Yet, the Siamese Fireback and everything that took place leading up to that moment in time was one of the best experiences for me. A fairy tale ending for a visit to an enchanted domain where wildlife truly thrives.

We explored a few open country and agricultural habitats in Khao Yai and also on our final day in central Thailand as we made our way to the airport. That will be covered in the last post of this amazing chapter of my birding life. 

Checklist of the birds recorded in and around Khao Yai National Park:

https://ebird.org/checklist/S308164246

https://ebird.org/checklist/S308148085

https://ebird.org/checklist/S308147531

https://ebird.org/checklist/S307876905

https://ebird.org/checklist/S307874986

https://ebird.org/checklist/S307874563

https://ebird.org/checklist/S307872950