Home of wildlife - Part 1

 

Khao Yai National Park is a pristine landscape that provides sanctuary to countless species of flora and fauna. I knew about this park even before I started birding. Naturally, I was excited for my maiden visit and what it has in store for me. We were just minutes from the main entrance when our guide did a detour. We stopped just outside the borders of the park because that particular locality is a known birding hotspot. As always, have faith in your guide. True enough, the diagnostic wing beats of a hornbill echoed across the vicinity and very few things in life can rival the emotional whirlwind caused by coming face to face with a Great Hornbill first thing in the morning.

I have been birding a long time and through the decades, I have come across a number of truly remarkable species. And believe me when I tell you this behemoth of a bird deserves a place right up there among the best. And it has been too long since I last saw one in the wild.

The smaller Oriental Pied Hornbills were also recorded in vicinity. Naturally, they were overshadowed by their bigger relative. And I only began to take notice of this male once the Great Hornbill was gone.

Another species that I cannot help but to take notice are the Red-breasted Parakeets. Apart from increasing my global life list, they occur here in exceptionally high numbers.  However, they seem to always perch on the tallest trees and good photographic opportunities were hard to come by.

Parakeets are also known to mate for life and this pair certainly appeared to be in the loving mood judging from their public display of affection.

Eventually I did find a lone male perched lower than the rest. It may not be the perfect shot but it will do.

This locality is also the domain of an impressive nocturnal predator and we were fortunate enough to be shown a roosting individual. This trip has been great so far when it comes to owls. This was the fourth species and I can confidently say the best although there are two more days before this Thai adventure ends. The Spot-bellied Eagle-Owl bears some resemblance to the Barred Eagle-Owl back home. But it is bigger and a lot more imposing. When it looks our way, I am grateful I do not form part of its diet.

The Spot-bellied Eagle-Owl alone was a good enough reason to delay our entry into the home of wildlife which is the tagline of the national park. Every bit of birding inevitably effects the lives of the birds that we birders revere. The goal is to keep our intrusion to a minimum. Not only for the sake of the birds but also to give to others a chance to enjoy what you have just experienced.

We spent roughly two day exploring Khao Yai National Park and the one of the first birds to greet our photographic intentions was the diminutive Collared Owlet. Ironically, every owl encounter so far in our trip took place in the daytime. But I for one, am not complaining.

Any habitat that houses hornbills should and must be conserved. The park authorities here are doing a great job and these winged rhinos are still able to roam freely (and safely) within its borders. A male Great Hornbill gorging on a fruiting tree just next to the access road is proof of that.

Resting comfortably in the canopy level of the forest was this male Wreathed Hornbill. The lighting was getting harsh by then and the bird was not exactly close. Still, it was a picture of bliss as we observed him preening and watching the world go by.

Another male was recorded during our exploration of the park. Although this species not be able to conjure up as much emotions as the Great Hornbill, the photographic opportunity provided was so much better.

One glance at the Black-crested Bulbuls found here and any Malaysian birder will notice the red throat that this subspecies possesses that is absent from the ones back home.

Whenever the opportunities present themselves, I would try to improve my images of these ‘red-throated’ Bulbuls.

Quite a number of Bulbuls require scrutiny to determine their identifications. This is pretty much the case for the Puff-throated Bulbul until I found out from my guide that the similar-looking Ochraceous Bulbul, a species I am very familiar with, does not occur here.

I guess sooner or later I have to man-up and write about these particular two species of Bulbuls that I encountered in central Thailand. There are four almost-identical Bulbul species that occur in this country. Luckily, the Olive and Buff-vented Bulbuls (which I have encountered both before) are restricted to the southern region. In Kaeng Krachan National Park, I tried my best to obtain a record shot of the Baker’s Bulbul but it got the better of me on every one of those few occasions our paths crossed. I fared much better in this national park and obtained what should be (after I have given my all in confirming the identification) Grey-eyed Bulbuls.

Fruiting trees are always a good place to stop for a look. We were fortunate to come across a few next to each at one of the camp grounds. Naturally, we spent a considerable amount of time here. And lucky we did. I had a brief encounter with the Golden-crested at the last national park we visited. This time, we had a pair and they stayed considerably longer. By the way, a pair of Common Hill Mynas also alighted on the same tree but they were out of the picture - naturally.

Although not exactly ‘feather-counting’ quality, I obtained the improvement shots I so badly wanted. There is this occasional occurrence in birding when once you finally unblocked a species that you have been trying to do so for many years, it will no longer be as difficult anymore. My second Golden-crested Myna in four days - unbelievable.

Here is an image of the female which finally received my attention when the male moved further away.

The fruiting tree also attracted three species of barbets and all of them new to me. The Green-eared Barbet is probably the most confiding and when any member of this family of birds performs well, one must take full advantage of it. Lord knows barbets can be difficult to photograph due to their preference for the highest canopies.

The plumage coloration of the Green-eared Barbet may not be as striking as some of the others but being new to me is novelty that surpasses beauty.

Because of the recent split, the Blue-eared Barbet was replaced in my life list by the Black-eared Barbet. There was not much reason to celebrate when the Blue-eared Barbet was re-entered back into my life list here in Thailand. Perhaps it was the least interesting to me and I did not put much effort in obtaining a photograph. The Moustached Barbet, on the other hand, had my full attention. The availability of food also made it forgo its natural instincts and provided excellent views which was a true blessing. And emotions certainly ran high for us at the fruiting trees...

In Southeast Asia, there are very few species that can rival Hanging-Parrots in terms of cuteness. Past experiences with the Blue-crowned Hanging-Parrot back home have taught me that they are not exactly easy to photograph. In this neck of the woods, the Vernal Hanging-Parrot replaces it and we were delighted to find a small flock patronizing one of the fruiting trees. I could not help but to feel a little disappointed because I think they were all females or immatures and none of them had a red bill.

It was the same outcome when we encountered these parrots again suggesting it was the same flock. One of the birds ventured exceptionally low, upside down and looking simply adorable. And the disappointment gradually faded away.

Then I caught sight of a single bird resting a little further from the flock. Unless my eyes (and camera) betrayed me, it had a significantly redder bill. But the blue tinge on throat does not give me enough confidence to call it a male.

I think it is safe to say that the Black Giant Squirrels in both the national parks we have been to are exceptionally confiding by nature. With fruiting trees as an enticement, one can almost reach out and touch them on the tail.

The Finlayson’s Squirrel is another stunning species drawn to the fruits and capturing a few images was and including it in my post was the least I could do. One thing that I noticed here is there are not as many birders present when compared to Kaeng Krachan National Park. Even at the fruiting tree we basically had the place to ourselves.

To be continued…

The Bird Hide Part 2: Gamebirds galore

 

During our stay at Samarn Bird Camp, I would usually walkabout the vicinity as we waited for dinner times. One evening our guide noticed me and casually asked if anything was about. I told him there is a pair of Red Junglefowls that will usually come around this time of the day but clear shots were difficult. You will get to shoot to your heart’s content soon enough was his reply and at The Bird Hide, I finally understood what he meant. The Red Junglefowl is the one gamebird that is more or less guaranteed here and the most confiding one of them all.

The beauty of the male is both underrated and underappreciated simply because we are all so used to seeing the domestic version. Now imagine if you would that domestic chickens do not exist and you encounter the male Red Junglefowl for the first time skulking about the undergrowth in some Godforsaken jungle. You will find him to be a most exquisite creature. The combination of vibrant coloration and plumes; the elongated tail feathers and of course, the wicked comb and wattle. That is one hell of a lifer if you ask me.

Anyway, if you can look past its common status and domesticated form, the Red Junglefowl is an impressive subject for photography. And my man Arjin was right. I shot to my heart’s content.

The female, like a majority of gamebirds, is at the other end of the spectrum almost lacking any vibrancy.

But since the females are also regular patrons to the watering hole, I accumulated a number of their images by the end of the day. My best to date if I might add.

Other than the Red Junglefowl, four other gamebirds are regularly recorded at The Bird Hide. And each and every one of them, a lifer to me. Known for their loud and persistent vocalizations, partridges are more often heard than seen. And the Scaly-breasted Partridges announced their presence long before they strolled into view.

The intricacy of their plumage is a familiar sight to me. They were once considered by some to be the same species as the Chestnut-necklaced Partridge – a species I know intimately from Malaysia. In this case, the differences between the two are distinct enough to justify the split. The Scaly-breasted Partridges kept their appearances brief and was probably the least photographed gamebird of the day.

Senses heightened again with the arrival of the Bar-backed Partridges. Sporting a very foreign plumage to me, fascination was instantaneous.

Behaviour-wise, the two partridges are quite similar but the latter was certainly more obliging today. The Bar-backed Partridges came back to the hide more often and provided longer views each time. I could not have asked for more from this adorable and striking ground bird.

The evening before our visit to the hide, we heard that the big group of hardcore birders whom we shared our accommodations with at Samarn Bird Camp dipped out on the Grey Peacock-Pheasant at the hide earlier. It was worrying news but when it comes to birding, everyone is at the mercy of Mother Nature. A little prayer before bedtime was probably the only thing that we could do. I could not determine if it was divine intervention or just plain luck but the Grey Peacock-Pheasant appeared not only once and four times throughout our day at the hide. And the female was the first to vanquish whatever worries we carried with us to our beds the night before.

The ocelli on her plumage may lack the brilliant definitions of the male but there is no denying the beauty and grace of this alluring species.

When the male made his first entrance, he too was alone and almost three hours later. But he was worth the wait. A constellation of stars covered his entire plumage and to top it all off, an array of striking blue ocelli with the intensity that pierces one’s soul. Unbelievably, the best was yet to come.

When the pair finally visited the hide together late in the afternoon, the male put on a performance that is undoubtedly one of the best I have experienced in all my years of birding. Instead of walking, he strutted into the vicinity feathers all fluffed out. His intention was clear enough. We were about to witness the courtship display of the Grey Peacock-Pheasant and the anticipation was nerve-wrecking.

Some last-second adjustments to make sure every feather was in place and our boy was finally ready to begin...

He danced seductively around his lady love. With his head bowed and tail fully fanned out, it was a flawless display to our eyes. Unfortunately for him, the female was not so easily impressed. In fact, the watering hole seemed to be the focus of her attention.

So caught up in the moment, the male carried on even after the female has wandered off. And like the pheasant, I forgot to capture some video clips of the display until it was too late. It was an overwhelming experience and I seldom use a tripod (which I did at that time) or capture video clips after all. That was what I told myself for self-consolation. To be honest, there was not much consoling required. Not when you get to observe and photograph such a compelling wonder of nature unfold itself right in front of you.

When reality finally kicked in, the male, like yours truly, performed some self-consoling and started foraging. And life goes on.  

Now for the final species to be paid homage. Initially, it had me slightly worried because there was no sign of it the entire morning and it is too big and beautiful a bird to be overlooked. When time trickled into mid-afternoon, anxiety took over. Then, I was alerted of something moving along the edge of the forest. Upon further scrutiny, it was a fluffy white tail. The rest of the body was too camouflaged to reveal its true form. But I knew what it was. A sigh of relief escaped my lips when the Kalij Pheasant stepped into the open. It was a female but that did not stop me from appreciating the moment.

Right from the start I could tell there were at least two pheasants. The second bird, a stunning male, made us wait before we could start gawking at his splendour.

I thought of writing something fancy to describe the appearance of the male. However the more I study his image, the harder it got to find the right words. Then, I realized that it was impossible task for a species as spectacular as a male Kalij Pheasant.

Later in the afternoon, a flock consisting of an adult pair and an immature male presumably their offspring visited the hide and rocked my world again.

Here is the young male and I far as I can tell, his smaller facial wattle was the only difference. His plumage colouration is reaching maturity and has every right to flaunt it.

And here he is. The head of the flock. The alpha. There is not a single doubt that he is an impressive individual. Every move he made, oozes with pride and confidence. I just could not take my eyes (and lens) off him. Inevitably, the female was a pale comparison foraging alongside him.

One last tribute to this amazing bird.  I have seen peacock-pheasants before back in my own country. But the Kalij Pheasant is something else and I simply adore the wicked crest. But it was not the end of the experience yet. The pheasants had a parting gift for their admirers in the hide. Another male wandered too close to the flock and it did not go down well with the alpha male. A flurry of feathers and leaf litter soon ensued but the dispute was beyond the capabilities of my photographic gear and partially hidden by the dense vegetation. When the dust settled, the intruding male retreated. And gradually, so did the flock.

The Kalij Pheasants provided the perfect conclusion for my coverage of the birds at The Bird Hide. A few squirrels were present in the vicinity but they were certainly overshadowed. Among the images that I managed to take included one of the ever-adorable Himalayan Striped Squirrel.

If I am not mistaken, this is an Indochinese Ground Squirrel and it was a mammal lifer.

Amidst all the avian wonders, there was one mammal that distracted my attention whenever it appeared. The Lesser Mouse-deer is an enigmatic jungle dweller and under normal circumstances, elusive and shy. In this heat, however, the watering hole is a vice that few can resist.

Back in Malaysia, this small deer-like animal is shrouded with folklore. Observing it for the first time, I can understand why. It is a fascinating species and there were no regrets for the time and effort taken to immortalize the encounters into my digital archive.

From Kaeng Krachan, we headed three hundred kilometres east to Khao Yai for the last leg our tour. To make the most of this gruelling four-hour drive, we made two stops for two twitches. The unique Indian Thick-knee was the reason we explored the scrublands of Pho Rai Wan. A brief sight of our lifer flying away served as a reminder of how cruel birding can be. A pair of Rufous Treepies could have provided some consolation had they been a little more accommodating to our photographic efforts.

And a Common Hoopoe, despite all its charisma, could only fare slightly better with this encounter that took place under the blazing midday sun.

Our twitching endeavours ended on a low note at the campus grounds of the Bangkok University. The phrase being kicked when you are down came to mind when we stared at an empty spot where an Indian Nightjar has been roosting for weeks until our arrival. For the first time since we landed in the Land of Smiles, Murphy’s Law replace the smile with a frown. My next post will tell if Murphy has followed us all the way to the legendary Khao Yai National Park.

The checklist of the birds seen:

1. The Bird Hide Kaeng Krachan

2. Pho Rai Wan Scrublands