I get a fair share of guests who are old school birders and Barry,
my latest guest who hails from Canada, is certainly one of them. I was a birder
long before I took up bird photography. So, I can relate to the fact that all
the gear Barry needs for a birding trip is his faithful binoculars. Today also
happened to be the final day of the Nine Emperor Gods Festival and that usually
spells rain in the daytime. Chinese believe the rain is meant to cleanse the
roads in preparation for the chariot procession at night. We were almost drenched
to the bone when we wondered out of our vehicle at the mangroves of Kuala Gula
in search of Milky Storks that is a part of Barry’s bucket list. The trip was
off to a bad start. The location did not live up to its name as a bird
sanctuary and the only ‘Milkies’ we saw were in a cage within the compound of
the Wildlife Department.
The Mangrove Blue Flycatcher also happened to be in his list and I
know exactly where to take him after the disappointing visit to Kuala Gula. As
we making our into the flycatchers’ swampy domain at Air Hitam Dalam, a
spectacle of nature that I have not witness for a long time stopped us at our
tracks. A flock of about 200 Asian Openbills were riding the hot air thermals in
the sky above. I was getting a little worried that these storks have abandoned
their intentions to settle down here in Peninsular Malaysia. The sight of this
massive flock was a relief to say the least.
The male Mangrove Blue Flycatcher did not disappoint as usual. His
friendly nature and striking colours made quite an impact on my guest. Barry
travels a lot in his line of work and he has seen a considerable number of bird
species. It would take something less ordinary to impress him and the Mangrove
Blue Flycatchers here are anything but ordinary.
Barry enjoying his second lifer of the trip – a female
Streak-breasted Woodpecker. This is probably the most reliable locality for
this northern speciality in Malaysia. The differences between this species and
the commoner Laced Woodpecker are so subtle, I had to work a little extra to
convince my guest. The woodpecker, being a female, was playing hard to get - naturally.
The last leg of today’s tour brought us to the muddy shorelines of
Penang’s only Important Bird Area (IBA) – Teluk Ayer Tawar. The tide has
started to rise upon our arrival and I could make out waders moving about on
the huge expanse of mud and sand.
However, it was not the birds that had my immediate attention but
this building that was still under construction. It looks modern and posh and
totally out of place here. You are surrounded by scrub and all creepy-crawlies
of all kinds. The air is stench with overwhelming mud odour and for half the time,
a bleak coastline greets your view. The noise pollution caused by the thousands
of migratory waders that winter here each year will drive you insane. This is
no place for such an innovative and classy building. Please leave this modest location
to the local residents and the birders. You deserve so much better – really…
Now that I have gotten that out of my system, back to the birds
again. The mere sight of the number of waders present was breath taking.
Although the tide was a little far, we could still scrutinized the flocks for any
rarities. As time passed, the tide pushed the waders closer. The adorable
Broad-billed Sandpipers were the first to come close enough for some decent
shots. Oblivious to all the looming threats their wintering ground is facing,
they went about having a good time in this tropical paradise.
Small waders are usually more confiding and this Terek Sandpiper foraged
quite close to our stationery vehicle that is now our mobile hide. I am not
sure how to describe it but Terek Sandpipers are very soothing to look at – upturned
bill and all.
The Common Redshanks due to their big numbers and moderate size is
quite conspicuous. Having a tendency to shout your lungs out every chance you
get is bound to attract attention to yourself also. I find that they tend to get
used to your presence faster than any of the other moderate-sized waders and
forage quite close at times.
Whimbrels are usually wary birds. This individual flew close to
shore to avoid the rising surf and soon realized its mistakes when it could make
out two human forms within this lug of steel that sits on four wheels. I
managed to take a few shots before it made things right again and foraged
further away from the shoreline.
The main reason for our visit here is the endangered Nordmann’s
Greenshank. After a careful sweep, we failed to locate one. It is probably too
early in the season but one has to be optimistic at times. The next best thing
was probably the small flock of Asian Dowitchers foraging nearby. This species,
unfortunately, is also on the endangered list. Like the greenshank, the area is
one of the main wintering grounds for these endangered waders. Hence, the IBA
status but I guess that does not mean much to most.
The dowitchers forage by probing their long bills into the mud quite
frequently. It is delightful to watch but challenging to obtain sharp images.
Especially now that the rain clouds have started to form again and threaten to
block out all traces of the ever-essential natural light I rely so heavily on
for photography. The absence of the usual scorching heat here at the mudflats
is a nice change despite certain drawbacks. The cool breeze that day also made
our wader watching session this time a lot more comfortable than usual. Go deep or go home...
It is a dog-eat-dog world out there on the mudflats. Once you obtained
your prey, you better consume it with haste or run away to consume it in
leisure because there is always another wader lurking nearby and ever ready to
snatch away your hard earned meal. When we were satisfied of our visit to the
beach, I took Barry for one last detour and that was to Kulim Hi-Tech Park for
his third and final lifer of the day – a well hidden roosting Barred Eagle-owl.
And that, I would say is a great way to end a day’s birding despite not having
that many photographs to show for it at the end.