It was an anxious drive up to the northern coastline of Batu
Ferringhi to pick up my latest guests who hail from England. Strong winds and
rain are expected to hit northern Peninsular Malaysia today and that is one of
the worse things to happen during a birding excursion. I reached the lobby of
the renowned Rasa Sayang Hotel well before dawn and it was more lavishly
decorated than usual. Christmas was just two days away after all and I am
hoping for some Yuletide magic to prevent what appears, although on a lesser
scale, to be the inevitable as I checked the latest weather forecast on my
smartphone.
My mind was never at ease during the two-hour drive to the forests
of Lake Pedu as we were met with intermittent drizzles. We managed to squeeze
an hour of excellent birding before the heavens finally opened up. After
waiting in vain for an hour we decided to carry on birding elsewhere. I cannot
help but to feel disappointed whenever my tours do not meet my expectations –
even if it is caused by the luck of the draw. This birding couple is one of the
most cheerful and understanding people I have ever come across and they were
the ones who consoled me and not the other way round.
The next destination was the mangroves of Sungai Batu. Not to be
greeted by rain upon our arrival was a good sign but the overcast sky did not
put my worries to rest completely. The Puff-throated Babblers lifted our
spirits with its incredible song and inquisitive nature. The resident pair put
on quite a performance just like my last visit here one week ago.
The Abbott’s Babblers were again outshine by the more appealing Puff-throated
Babblers. But their presence did not go unnoticed. Lucy and Julian do not have
much experience birding in this part of the world and the Abbott’s Babbler was
a welcomed addition to their life list.
Being one of the most colourful species found at this site, the
Mangrove Blue-Flycatcher naturally became an instant favourite with my foreign guests.
Both the male and female were very accommodating this time and there were ample
opportunities to take note of the sexual dimorphism of this striking species.
The adorable Forest Wagtail swayed its way into my guests’ hearts and
it is not difficult to see why. The hypnotic rhythm of its body movement and
the striking plumage is always a delight to observe. It was painfully missing
during my last visit and I am glad it is still here to mesmerise. On the other
hand, the star bird of locality was no where to be seen. Pittas are favourites
for most if not all foreign birders. For Lucy and Julian, the Mangrove Pitta of
Sungai Batu would have been their first Pitta in the wild. I need not elaborate
how significant the absence of the pitta today was to my guests. However, I got
to learn an English saying courtesy of the pitta and it was Sod’s Law. I have a
feeling this saying will be regularly used in my postings from now on.
Later in the day, the paddy fields provided a different variety of
bird life for the excursion. Although, I did not manage to immortalise any of
the encounters through my photographic gear but it was a good one at this man made
landscape. The last destination of the day was a suburban park in the middle of
Bukit Mertajam - one of the largest towns in mainland Penang. There was only
one objective here and the Barred Eagle-Owl provided only a fleeting glimpse.
Not exactly the high note I was hoping for to conclude Day One of my guests’
maiden birding adventure in Peninsular Malaysia. However, a confiding male
Common Tailorbird was a good consolation. As the name suggests it is a common
species in built up areas throughout Peninsular Malaysia but like all warblers,
good views do not come by often. This little garden bird did well to fill up
the gap left by the owl. He chose to alight on an exposed perch in front of us
and proceeded to belt out his territorial call long enough to give us a
memorable end to the day.
The failure to show my guests their first ever pitta was a bitter
pill to swallow for all of us. We came to a unanimous decision to try for the
pitta again the next morning and were duly rewarded with amazing views of the
Mangrove Pitta. Looks like Christmas came early for Lucy and Julian.
Foraging on the muddy forest floor, the radiant colours of the pitta
stood out like a beacon in the dark. My guests got their first pitta and a huge
burden was lifted off my shoulders. Unlike yesterday, it was a beautiful morning
and we set off to our next location with much enthusiasm.
Like everyone else I love holidays but the holiday crowd can be an
annoying issue. It is not only the malls and tourist attractions. Forest
reserves like Sungai Sedim will suffer the same fate. For the record, the car
park was at its busiest that I have ever seen. Thankfully, all these visitors
rarely wander from the car park area and we managed to find solitude and
splendour along the access trail leading up to Gunung Bintang as we found
ourselves surrounded by feathered denizens that call this recreational forest
home.
The Verditer Flycatcher is always a delight. The sultry blue plumage
set against the foliage of the forest canopy as it gracefully hawked for
insects was a sight for sore eyes.
Forest birding, frustrating as it may be at times, is still the most
exciting of all birding endeavours. I have been exploring this site for many
moons and yet it managed to hide a species as conspicuous as a Chestnut-bellied
Malkoha from me till today. We are not talking about a little brown job here.
It is a colourful and big forest cuckoo. And one that I have not seen for years.
Of all the malkohas that occur in Malaysia, I find this species to be the most
uncommon – here in northern Peninsular Malaysia anyway. The lighting was challenging
and a record shot of the signature orange eye patch was all I could muster.
The final destination for Day Two was the freshwater swamp forest of
Air Hitam Dalam. The Malaysian hospitality has won over the Taiga Flycatcher
and it is good to see this rare migrant enjoying life in the tropics at this wintering
ground.
The migratory Black Kites filled the skies with their graceful stature
and the lighting was ideal to capture these raptors in their element. We did
not have much privilege with raptors so far and the kites made sure my guests
had recollections of raptors for this trip.
The last bird of the trip was a Square-tailed Drongo-Cuckoo. This
species has undergone a number of name changes and splits. Anyway, they have
come to a conclusion that only the Square-tailed Drongo-Cuckoo occurs here in
Malaysia for both the resident race and the migratory race like this one. And
life is simple once again. Resting unobtrusively in the forest canopy, it was
intriguing enough to escalate emotions one last time before we braced ourselves
for the horrendous holiday traffic back in Penang Island. But I am not going to
end this post lamenting about the ever increasing traffic woes of my beloved home
town. It is Christmas Eve and my guests this time deserve a better ending. It
was a roller coaster trip. Despite all the shortcomings, it was a trip still filled
with excitement, awe, good company and most of all, amazing bird life.