The Ferruginous Fever

I was up well before dawn despite it being a long day of birding yesterday. Sleep did not come easy. The glowing plumage of the Ferruginous Partridge filled my night with lucid dreams. There is no doubt I have caught the ‘Ferruginous Fever’ and the cure, is to get the birds in the flesh. I know that I will not be alone in this quest. It is a Sunday morning after all and the pandemic has swept through the entire length of the country all way to neighbouring Singapore. A crowd is inevitable. But I have traveled too far for this partridge to develop a sudden case of agoraphobia. Like a man on a mission, I was determined to get my main target of the trip. A hide is a requirement and together with a dozen other birders and photographers, we prepped our gear and ourselves for the morning to come and God willing, Ferruginous Partridges in all their glory.

The first couple of hours was quite uneventful with only the commoner species to keep us company. A sense of worry started to take a hold of me. To miss out on the partridges two mornings in a row would certainly have dire consequences on my state of mind and overall wellbeing. My uncomfortable seating position in the hide was taking its toll on me also. But persistency as well as patience is a virtue in the world of birding. Time passed a little easier whenever the Ochraceous Bulbul decides to show itself. Just like yesterday, it can be confiding at times.

The family of Oriental Magpie-robins are regulars to this locality and the chick was still banking on its parents’ maternal instincts for a quick meal.

Whenever I see a Treeshrew now, I am instantly reminded of Scrat (the character from the Ice Age movie franchise). I guess I have Scrat to thank for keeping me occupied with its antics as I waited for the Ferruginous Partridges.

Another hour has passed and still no partridge. I was about to lose it when two male Mountain Peacock-pheasants decided to inject some life into this slow but beautiful morning. And I do not need any invites to start capturing this handsome endemic. It was probably the same two males from yesterday morning but I am not complaining. They still do it for me.

Not long after the males retreated back into the forest, a female pheasant show herself. For me, this is the first time I have seen a female here. And she was even more confiding than the males. That’s a good girl...

Right about then something orange moving about the undergrowth caught my eye. I held my breath. I knew what it was. And it was slowly edging closer. For the first in my life, I have a Ferruginous Partridge in full view and it was unimaginably striking. I will not attempt to describe the partridge. Just like illustrations and photos, it will not do the partridge any justice. Nothing beats seeing a species in the wild. The long drive, unsuccessful first attempt, crowded birding spaces, cramped sitting positions – all those do not matter anymore. All that mattered was here I am, enjoying one of the best looking partridges in Malaysia and loving every second it.

A second partridge revealed itself soon after. And then a third. Now, I was faced with a dilemma – which one to shoot first? The partridges were mostly on the move and that certainly did not help the situation. On this rare occasion, less could very well be more as I do not have to frantically capture as many shots as possible of all three birds.

At one time, I just put my camera down and soak in the view. Three beautiful Ferruginous Partridges were foraging in front of me and as far as I can tell, all of them were young adults. Naturally, I would have preferred adult birds with complete plumage but in life, we cannot always get what we want. I could have just as easily missed them like I did the day before. Nothing is a sure thing when it comes to observing and shooting wildlife. Come to think of it, nothing is a sure thing in life as well. So, be grateful what you have been given and cherish what you have.

And just like that, they vanished into the forest again. I thought the performance was over and so did everyone else. I could not have been more wrong. The partridges came back again and they appeared to be more confiding during the second session and came even closer to our hides. I guess my images also improved as I have gained back most of my composure and breath. My back and legs still ache but that is of no significant importance.

If a year ago someone would have told me that I will be able to capture these two remarkable birds in one frame and I would have asked that someone to have his head checked. Unbelievable as it may seem, it is happening now and many have been given the privilege to experience it.

This photo brought back memories of my one and only sighting this partridge prior to this encounter. I had to struggle and wait for years to be able to finally have a glimpse of the bird. I could not even muster a single shot then. I was elated just the same to be able see it and include it into my life list despite having to trek uphill for a few kilometers followed by strenuous stalking of my quarry along a forest trail.

Now, it is parading right out in the open and in good light. Life does not get any better than this. My birding adventure to central Peninsular Malaysia definitely ended on a high note. Pahang, with its vast expense of forest, still provides sanctuary to some truly fascinating birds. I still have dreams of the Ferruginous Partridge after the incredible encounter at Bukit Tinggi. Then I realized this fever is not something I recently contracted nor is it caused by the partridges. It is something that I have with me for the past two decades or so and it is the ‘birding bug’ for which there is, hopefully no cure.

Natural Born Models

I embarked on another birding adventure to central Peninsular Malaysia and it was back to the chilly montane air of Bukit Tinggi in Pahang. I was here back in March to experience the Mountain Peacock-pheasant phenomenon that has put this hill resort into the world birding map. This time, I was not after the endemic pheasant. This time, it was the resplendent Ferruginous Partridge. Gamebirds by nature are shy and elusive. And I thought my brief glimpse of the bird along the Gap Road in Fraser’s Hill will be as good as it will ever get for me. When news broke of a family of these partridges are showing well at the pheasants’ locality, it was only a matter of waiting for the right time for a revisit.

The Mountain Peacock-pheasants were the first to arrive and the two males put on a good performance. Although this is my second time with the pheasants here, my hands trembled with excitement as I followed their movement with my photographic gear. I guess it will take some getting used to.

How can anyone ever get used to being so close to these majestic creatures? Just look at him…

With my main target of the trip nowhere in sight, the other birds present were given their due attention. The Ochraceous Bulbul is not uncommon especially in montane forest. Its vocal nature tends to give it away quite easily whenever it is presence. However, it is not easy to photograph and a confiding individual should never be taken for granted.

In fact, the bulbul was a bit of a show off and it certainly received everyone’s attention. Yet again, I had to share the locality with other birders. It seemed like you can never be alone here – especially on weekends.

The Oriental Magpie-robin is certainly doing well in this hill resort. You can see this striking songster throughout the vicinity. A family was foraging at the pheasants’ locality and the fully fledged chick was just starting to find food on its own. Whenever the opportunity arises, it would still take full advantage of its parents’ maternal instincts and receive the handouts.

Making decisions is very much a part of life. Sometimes we make good decisions and sometimes, we make bad ones. And then there are times we make horrendous ones. With the disappointment of the partridges not showing clouding my judgement, I left Bukit Tinggi at mid-morning and headed towards Lanchang for my secondary targets of the trip only to find out later that the partridges came out an hour after my departure. All three of them. Well, you might as well kick me in the groin because that was how it felt like. Lanchang is also located in the state of Pahang too and it was about an hour’s drive from Bukit Tinggi. Unlike the later, it was hot and humid but none of that mattered when a Black-throated Babbler hopped into view at the stake out area. This babbler is not new to me but I have no opportunities to capture its images till now.

I spent a considerable amount of time observing, shooting and admiring the Ferruginous Babbler during my last visit to the forests of Taman Negara Sungai Relau but the bird has not lost its novelty with me. I still find it to be a delightful species with a large dose of character and beauty.

Another familiar species was the Yellow-bellied Bulbul. Like the Ferruginous Babbler, Taman Negara Sungai Relau provided plenty of quality time with this species as well. However, its presence did not evoke as much emotions. Maybe it is because it also occurs in good numbers in the forests of Kedah where I often find myself birding.

A screen has been put up to accommodate the high number of birders and photographers (individual hides would only take up more space) to the site. This location is probably the hottest birding spot in Peninsular Malaysia now.

The one species that stands out from the rest is the enigmatic Malaysian Rail-babbler and there are at least 2 individuals frequenting the area. The birds here have grown accustomed to human presence and that gives both birders and photographers a rare opportunity to enjoy them for prolonged periods of time.

The walking gait of the babbler reminiscences the catwalk of those slender-limbed female models as they showcase their beauty and sensuality through graceful and provocative movements of the body anatomy. This is Mother Nature’s version and unlike its human counterparts, no training is required. Well, you will not find me driving more than 400 kilometers just to ogle at female models in a fashion show. But as you can see, I would for this alluring species.

Before I could fully recover from the Malaysian Rail-babbler’s performance and regain my composure, a female Banded Pitta came into the picture. There are a small number of sexually dimorphic bird species here in Malaysia where the female is just as attractive. The Banded Pitta is certainly one of them and although she is not fully matured yet, she is absolutely gorgeous. What she lacks in colour is made up by the striking black and yellow stripes on her underside.

This is the second time this year that I have the privilege to spend time with this extraordinary species and for that I am most grateful. The light was slightly behind the Banded Pitta but it did not matter. I am satisfied with how the images turned out. The colours of the bird are so radiant that even the setting sun could not drown them out.

To wrap things up for my first day of birding in Pahang is a little rodent that I cannot be certain if I have it in my photographic database – the Low’s Squirrel. The disappointment with the Ferruginous Partridge was a bitter pill to show and I hope to make things right the next day. The outcome of day two will be covered in my next post.

Lucky days...

Ben was back in town again for a couple of days of birding and this time he brought along another Singaporean birder, Millie who is still relatively new to birding. Ben has been my regular guest for a few years now and has seen probably all there is to see in Penang but for Millie, this will be her maiden birding trip here. For the first day of the tour, I took them to the forest of Sungai Sedim – the best forest site close to Penang state. The forecast was rain this week and initially I was a little worried about the weather but soon after our arrival, the sun glowed in beautiful amber and the forest came to life in its wake. I thought to myself that this must be our lucky day. The birds did a great job in welcoming my Singaporean guests. Birdwaves will usually have you frantically trying to identify every participating species and for the bold, attempt to photograph them as well. However there are moments when the participant remains stationery long enough for its photo and moments like these are priceless. We encountered a handful of birdwaves this beautiful morning and one of them provided one of my best images of the striking Black-winged Flycatcher-shrike.

The nearby Ulu Paip Forest Reserve is not as rich in bird life but it is home to a few sought-after species like the Blue-banded Kingfisher. This beautiful creature of forested streams and rivers is not common anywhere. This forest reserve is one of the few places where it is more regularly encountered. Its diminutive size and shy nature helps it keep out of sight. And to obtain reasonably good images, a hide is a requirement. A lone male hunting unobtrusively along the main river provided my guests one of their best lifers of this trip. Although it was no way a close observation, the prolonged period that he allowed us to peer into his secretive little world made up for the quality of the images we managed to obtain in the end.

The resident Barred Eagle-owl of Kulim Hi-Tech Park is undoubtedly one of the favourites among most of my guests. Owls as a species are amazing creatures. And confiding ones like the Barred Eagle-owl here straddle the border between reality and fantasy as the encounters at times are almost too good to be true. This is the first time in a long while that I managed to see the pair together. It was exciting and a relief. Even the obstructing vegetation could not damper my spirit.

On the second day of our tour, we visited the swamp forest of Air Hitam Dalam. No visit to Penang is ever complete without it – especially for first-time visitors. The weather held up today as well. It must be our lucky day again. I received news a few days earlier that one of the big trees has uprooted due to strong winds. I had no idea how much negative effect it has caused and there is only one way to find out for sure and that is to see it for myself. My heart sunk to the floor when I saw the uprooted tree as it was one of the big ones. It is fine for trees to get uprooted in a natural environment where everything is in perfect equilibrium but in a confined one like this, it could be devastating.

However through all the destruction and debris, there was still hope. The mixed pair of Tickell’s and Mangrove Blue Flycatchers appeared to have gone through the ordeal without much trauma although the tree flattened their territory. Just to reassure me, the male Mangrove Blue Flycatcher greeted us along what is the left of the boardwalk and he was as friendly as ever.

My guests distracted by a Stork-billed Kingfisher perched on a dead stump next to the river…

As we were making our way out of Air Hitam Dalam, the presence of a lone Asian Openbill did not go unnoticed. There is a major decrease in the number found here in mainland Penang and it could well signify that the colonization attempt by these birds that originated from the neighbouring country of Thailand is coming to an end. Where once hundreds darkened the skies around the paddy planting district here, there are now small numbers of individuals. For a waterbird lover like me, that is sad indeed.

The coastline along Teluk Ayer Tawar is one of the major wintering grounds for migratory waders to Peninsula Malaysia. At the peak of the migratory season, you can see them in the thousands. Lucky for me and other birders, this is still an annual occurrence – for the time being anyway. There are plans surfacing that intend to convert this area into God knows what. Whatever it is, it is quite certain that the waders will not be a part of it. Enough of the whining and back to the birds. Once we found a good spot to observe the waders, we made ourselves comfortable and enjoyed the experience. The tide was not at its optimum for photography but the sight of hundreds of waders against a background of mud and surf always do it for me. And the season has just only started. More waders will come in due time.

The final leg of the itinerary took my guests to the landfill of Pulau Burung in southern mainland Penang. The second phase of the landfill is well on its way. And it is enormous. But then again, all the solid waste has got to end up somewhere eventually. So I would like to make a public announcement, please recycle whenever you can. The highlight of our visit to this local patch for me is a lone Lesser Adjutant perched on a tree along the edge of the mangroves bordering the landfill. This species is getting rare here in my home state. Destruction of its natural habitat is probably one of the main causes for its decline. A truly enigmatic waterbird. One of my favourites in fact. Which explains why I even bother to take a shot although it was miles away. This bald but majestic stork wraps things up for this 2-day birding excursion. Despite all the on-going and looming threats to the birding localities around Penang, there is still enough left for a good couple of days of birding. The real question is how long it will last.

Moments...

The forests of Peninsula Malaysia house some of the most extraordinary bird species. The elusive and enigmatic Malaysian Rail-babbler is certainly one of them. In all my years of birding, I have only seen it twice and on both occasions, they were fleeting views. The chicken-like gait and the long, slim body shape make the Malaysian Rail-babbler rather unmistakeable. Recently, a Malaysian Rail-babbler has been performing well for birders and photographers near and far at a location in Pahang. It kind of contradicts my earlier statement of it being elusive. And some, God forbid, have almost forgotten how hard it used to be to obtain decent views of this particular bird.

A life well-lived is a life filled with moments. Moments that inspire. Moments that awe. And moments that change lives. A recent excursion into the forest of Kedah state with James Neoh certainly had such moments for me. The day started off quite well and later in the morning, some bird activities at a fruiting tree naturally gained our full attention. While scanning through the patrons of the fruiting tree, a prolonged whistle penetrated through the forest vegetation before reaching our ear drums. A second whistle proved that it was indeed a real bird and not my imagination at work. I am no stranger to this locality but this is the first time the Malaysian Rail-babbler has revealed itself to me. It is not totally unexpected but it is certainly exciting as hell. We cautiously inched closer to the source and that led us to the edge of the forest and beyond that, a ravine. The ravine was too deep and the vegetation too dense for any attempts to locate our quarry.

We followed the forest edge until we came to an opening and it appeared to be an abandoned trail. We set up our hides at a strategic location, got our gear ready and left our fate in the hands of Mother Nature. Suddenly, it started to drizzle and that was certainly not a good sign. But we held on. It will take a whole lot more to forgo an opportunity to capture a Malaysian Rail-babbler.  I am not sure what my companion was doing but I was on my knees in prayer. The 10-minute wait felt longer than it truly was. Anxiety had pretty much taken hold of me by then. In the faintest of whispers James uttered, it’s here. And there it was – strutting in front of our hides. I was utterly overwhelmed and I have not even squeeze my shutter yet. Just to be able to see this amazing bird so clearly would have been enough for me. Anything else is a bonus.

The encounter lasted only minutes and for most of time, it was partly hidden by the vegetation. But this is the Malaysian Rail-babbler. I, a mere mortal, should count my blessings for whatever I have been given by this divine creature. The babbler was emitting its territorial call at one time and I could even make out the blue throat patch (invisible when the bird is silent) with my limited field of view. A life-changing moment? Absolutely...

Just before the babbler wandered deeper back into its domain among the undergrowth of the tropical rain forest, it provided a few seconds of unobstructed views and I made the best I could out of the situation. No doubt it was walking down a mound and the angle was less than desirable but it was in good lighting and I obtained my best image of this treasured encounter. We continued to wait for about 2 hours but to no avail. That was all that Mother Nature intended us to witness today. But it will certainly do.

Glimmer of hope

The Pulau Burung Landfill in southern mainland Penang holds a very special place in my heart for all the wonderful memories it has provided. It is most depressing that in recent years the birding there plummeted to an all-time low. Human intervention at the marshlands surrounding the landfill is one of the main reasons behind this dreadful turn of events. When I received a phone call from Christine if I could assist her conduct a bird survey as part of the EIA for the construction of the second phase of the landfill, I took it on without much hesitation. The second phase will be constructed on the adjacent palm oil estates which honestly, will have very little impact on what is left of the birdlife there. But the scope of the EIA will include the original landfill area as well and if there is anything I could do that may help restore the marshlands back to half its former glory, I certainly would. Nothing may come out of EIA. It is only but a glimmer of hope. But it is better than nothing at all.

The heavens were in our favour. Despite torrential rain for the past few days, we were greeted by sunny weather upon our arrival. The Brahminy Kite may be one of the commonest raptors in Malaysia but to me, it is one of the handsomest as well. This lone bird soaking in the golden rays of morning sun on top of a dead coastal tree provided a good start to our survey. The striking plumage of this raptor set against the clear blue sky was certainly a sight to cherish.

Purple Herons were present in good numbers today. Large herons are becoming a scarce commodity in Penang nowadays and that makes today’s records significant. It is generally a rather skittish bird but this adult bird had total faith that the surrounding vegetation would provide adequate cover and shield it from approaching birders.

The silhouette of a raptor perched on a dead tree in front us caught my immediate attention. It was most unfortunate that the sun was in front us as we slowly made our approach in our vehicle. It turned out to be a pale morph Changeable Hawk-eagle and this impressive predator showed no fear of our intrusion into its domain. I managed to obtain full frame shots from the comfort of our vehicle and this encounter reminded me why visited this locality more times than I could remember in the past (and why I could tolerate the overwhelming stench of the landfill). I know that the phrase a little piece of heaven on earth is so cliché but that was what Pulau Burung was to me at that point in my life. It broke me when it was all taken away from me. I am not sure if this place will ever be the birding paradise it used to be but we have to try.

An all-too-familiar call still echoed through the vicinity and the water birds responsible for the racket are one of the few that has managed to survive here after the onslaught. Red-wattled Lapwings have adapted well to disturbed habitats not only here but throughout the state. Their poise and colours are always welcomed in any birding excursion.

The migrants have started to trickle in and a few confiding Eastern Yellow Wagtails foraging next to the landfill hopefully will be a sign of things to come. This individual was still in partial breeding plumage and provided a much needed lift to my spirit as I reflect upon the days of old I spent experiencing the magical birding moments. I published an article in a nature magazine a few years back about this location and as a closing I wrote, I hope the day will never come when the ballerinas of the marsh (Black-winged Stilts) are force to perform one last time in the presence of angels (Whiskered Terns) before departing from a diminishing paradise and never to return again. Well, that day is certainly almost here.

This new sign erected by the Wildlife Department momentarily distracted us from our survey. I have never seen a wild crocodile here in Peninsular Malaysia before. I have also been birding here in Pulau Burung regularly for the past 2 decades. If there are crocodiles, it would really make my day to see one finally. But it was not my time yet. So, here I am, posting this photo of the “Beware of Crocodiles” signboard taken by Christine…

As we were about to conclude the survey, I took the opportunity to observe the flocks of Lesser Whistling-ducks present at the marshlands. The ducks seemed to have found a true sanctuary living here next to the landfill. In fact, this is probably the last stronghold for this species here in Penang. I guess the security around the landfill indirectly protects them from poachers and with food aplenty, there could be no better place for them to call home.

From Pulau Burung, we headed south to the Sungai Acheh Mangrove Research Center. If not for Christine, I would not have known such a place actually exist in my home state. There is even a small boardwalk that cuts through the mangroves but as it was near the noon hour, not much was seen because the heat was truly taxing. And we also concluded the survey shortly after - naturally. I do hope that the little role that I played in this survey will be able to do some good for the once-inspiring birding hotspot called Pulau Burung. Only time will tell.

Days of thunder...

It was a chilly dawn at the car park area of Sungai Sedim. The rainy season has finally arrived to this side of the Peninsular Malaysia and the pre-dawn storm has left its mark on the surroundings. I was a little sluggish than usual and the resident pair of Rhinoceros Hornbills managed to slip past me and flew across the open space of the car park without me even mustering one shot of these majestic birds. Despite the presence of the fruiting tree, the hornbills are very reluctant to feast on the fruits like previous seasons – much to the dismay of the local birders. With nothing else present to keep me at the car park, I made my way to one of the forest trails in search of more feathered denizens. Seeing that the lighting condition was still very bad, a Rufous-crowned Babbler tauntingly perched right out in the open while belting out its territorial song. I guess my quest for my first recognizable image of this tree babbler continues.

Dozens of species came and went but I my camera remained hung over my shoulder throughout that time. Grey-headed, Short-tailed and Grey-throated Babblers teased from among the dimly lighted area of the undergrowth while Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrikes, Great Ioras and Fiery Minivets danced in the sunlight from the top most parts of the forest canopy. A written description is all that I can offer as photographic opportunities were far and few. A male Green Broadbill finally broke the duck but not before making me sing for my supper. I had to scan through a sea of green to locate a bird that is almost completely green. His persistent calls was my guiding light and eventually, I found him perched in the foliage not to far from the edge of the forest.

A Red-eyed Bulbul abandoned the safety of the forest canopy in order to enjoy a hearty meal on the ground. The temptation of food can get the best of us at times and this bulbul was quite adamant to finish the feast in this precarious position despite my intrusion. Fortunately for me, there was just enough light for my gear to capture the moment as well.

Silence crept into the forest in the late morning and the trek back to the car park was much harder than the trek in this morning. But the sudden absence bird activities left me no choice but to seek greener pastures elsewhere. And that elsewhere this time was the swamp forest of Air Hitam Dalam. The weather, as expected, was not promisingly upon my arrival. The ambassadors of this birding hotspot did not greet me like they usually do. I did find one of them, a male Mangrove Blue Flycatcher, all fluffed up in the under storey preparing for the testing weather to come.

Along the elevated boardwalk, the constant drumming of a woodpecker diverted my attention to the forest canopy. The male Common Flameback is a striking bird. It did not take me long to locate him perched near the top of a dead tree trunk. The red crest and the contrasting body colours stood out like a beacon in the dark. And the sky has certainly darkened by then. The distant thunder was all that was needed for me to make a haste return to my vehicle. I have no intentions of getting drenched again – I had quite my share of that during work these few days. Rain is an integral part of life and a welcome relief from the sizzling heat of the tropics. But it can also kill off any birding trip thus making it a nemesis to birding in this part of the world. Hopefully for my next excursion, I will myself basking in better weather condition while I pursue my passion.