Good day, mate - Part 2

We finally arrived at one of the best birding sites in Malaysia which is the montane forest of Fraser’s Hill in Pahang State. The town centre has not changed much through the years with the iconic clock tower still standing proud and greeting every guest as they make their way past the winding road up from the Gap.

However, I did not drive 4 hours from Penang just to admire colonial architectures. As soon as we settled our accommodations at this rustic hill resort, we were off in pursuit of feathered denizens that find sanctuary here. The first spot that we went to is where the endemic Malaysian Partridges are regularly seen. It took a long while for the partridges to show. Lucky for us, we had the commoner species to keep us company. The Oriental Magpie-Robin is still doing well in this cool mountainous environment and an adult male looks just as good as he sings.

It did not take long for the Chestnut-capped Laughingthrush to show and soon, we were surrounded by these vocal and inquisitive birds. I may be getting immune to the birds’ colourful presence but to a first timer like my Australian guests, the Chestnut-capped Laughingthrush is one hell of a bird.

Overshadowed by its more conspicuous relatives, the Malayan Laughingthrush prefers to take a more discreet entrance. However being the rarer of the two, it naturally had our attention too.

I find the Common Emerald Dove to be a difficult bird to observe as it is wary of human intrusion. However, the doves here are accustomed to human presence and intimate encounters with this striking ground dweller is possible for a change.

The wait for the Malaysian Partridge was a long one – just like my last attempt here almost a year ago. Time came to a standstill when the first of the partridges appeared. Followed closely by another and another. Then came the one of the main highlights of the trip. Four fluffy and adorable chicks hopped out from the shadowy world of the forest understorey.

The chicks stuck to the adults like magnet to steel. Needless to say it was for their survival and wellbeing.

It is good to see these elusive gamebirds thriving. The sight of the next generation of Malaysian Partridges melted my heart away. It was not expected and that made the encounter all the sweeter.

This is what the chicks will eventually transform into – a striking adult perfectly adapted to life among the leaf litter and undergrowth.

The undergrowth is home to a number of exquisite bird species and one such bird is the White-tailed Robin. Due to its preference for dark gullies and ravines, this secretive bird does not often reveal its true beauty especially the male. The two white tail streaks from which its name is derived is probably all you see as the robin makes its getaway. Thus, to have a handsome male White-tailed Robin out in the open is an encounter can drop a seasoned birder to his knees. In which I did – in order to obtain more intimate images of this beauty of a bird.

It would be difficult for the White-tailed Robin to be overshadowed but it was in the hands, or should I say wings, of a male Orange-headed Thrush. With a colour combination of bright orange head and underparts contrasting sharply against greyish blue upperparts, this uncommon migrant is a true visual feast.

I have only a handful of encounters with this thrush but this is the best one by far. Our first day at this birding haven is drawing to a close and I am absolutely delighted to have this species wrapped things up.

The next morning, we were on a quest to see one of the most striking birds of this hill resort. The great thing about this bird is that it is not too difficult to locate here. Time yourself right at a particular stretch of road and you will have a very good chance to catch the gorgeous Red-headed Trogon hunting for breakfast at the forest edge. The male, naturally, has more vivid colouration and today Lady Luck was on our side. Not only did we have a male bird in all his glory but there was hardly any mist which is the norm at this hour.

The lighting may not be ideal but it could rob the trogon of his splendour. Throughout our observation, he moved about leisurely along the forest edge. From overhead electric cables to the foliage of trees; no matter where he alighted he graced the vicinity with his presence and it was a mesmerizing affair.

One of the biggest of our flycatchers, the Large Niltava is another common species here in Fraser’s Hill. For someone who does not spend enough time birding in the mountains, the male Large Niltava will always have my admiration even if he is ringed for I suppose scientific purposes. Why else would some human want to spoil the natural beauty of this bird by placing gaudy coloured rings on its legs, right?

The living mascot of Fraser’s Hill is the Silver-eared Mesia. And deservingly so I might add. Common, confiding, colourful and cheerful; this montane babbler is always a delight to encounter. This post is now getting a bit too lengthy for my liking and I will continue my write up of this amazing place in my next post.

Good day, mate - Part 1

For me, long birding trips is one of the most fulfilling things in life. I spend a lot of time birding and guiding visitors in Penang and neighbouring states. Thus, when I get a chance to explore birding sites far from home, there is always a sense of excitement. Laurie, an avid Australian birder, contacted me well ahead of his planned birding trip to Peninsular Malaysia with his teenage son. So, I was able to accommodate them to do a 4-day birding excursion including 2 nights at the birding mecca known as Fraser Hill. For the first day, we visited sites that were closer to home starting with the forest of Pedu Lake in Kedah state.

I timed our arrival to reach the locality just before dawn with the hopes of bagging a night bird or two. I am sure there were a few of them vocalising but one particular call had my undivided attention and it belonged to the enigmatic Large Frogmouth. When it comes to nocturnal birds in Peninsular Malaysia, the Large Frogmouth is perhaps one of the most impressive and intriguing species. It took me a while to locate the bird but when I finally did, I had goose bumps all over and quivered with excitement. Perched on an exposed vine overlooking a forest stream, the Large Frogmouth was in its element. The humans, on the other hand, were literally groping in the dark. People often ask me what my favourite bird is. It is a question I will find hard to answer. I may be undecided on my favourite bird but I certainly know my favourite birding moments. And the encounter with this remarkable creature of the night is certainly one of them. My guests could not have ask for a better start to their birding adventure here in Malaysia. Neither could I.

Once the sun rose, the forest then came alive with the calls of diurnal birds. A Scarlet-rumped Trogon was calling from the crown of a small tree and with colours as striking as this, this male bird was a breath taking sight. Forest birding can often be frustrating but it is the only chance to encounter such alluring bird life.

Upon further scrutiny, a blue flycatcher foraging along the edge of the access road turned out to be a male Chinese Blue Flycatcher. It is an uncommon migrant to our shores and despite its similarities to other commoner Blue Flycatchers, the subtle difference in the colouration of the throat region was all it took to turn ordinary into extraordinary.

Whenever the Great Slaty Woodpecker is presence, it is almost impossible for you not to noticed it. Not only is it the biggest woodpecker in Malaysia, it is also one of the noisiest birds here as well. It usually occurs in small flock but I guess this one prefers the solitude of single life. Unfortunately, the only shot I have to show for the encounter was one with the big guy flying away and deeper into the jungle domain.

Along the forest edge, you are likely to come across a vocal little warbler that frequents the long grass area. Sometimes, the Rufescent Prinia will perch conspicuously whilst uttering its territorial call and that is the best time to observe and photograph it.

At the mangroves of Sungai Batu, the Mangrove Pitta put on yet another impeccable performance to have my guests spellbound.

However, I felt that the Puff-throated Babbler deserved some recognition for providing a very intimate encounter. And the volume of its territorial song at this proximity, was overwhelming to say the least.

The Abbott’s Babbler did not go unappreciated as it foraged on the muddy terrain. It would be an uphill task to outdo the charisma of the Puff-throated Babbler but this drably coloured bird has its own appeal.

Although the Malaysian Pied-Fantail is a common bird, it has a tendency to move about at a frantic pace and that makes it difficult to obtain its images. When we came across one that was not quite so hyperactive, it provided a very good photographic opportunity which does not come by all that often.

As we wandering along the paddy fields of mainland Penang, several Chinese Pond-Herons stood out like beacons in the sea of paddy and mud due to their smart breeding plumage. One confiding individual eventually had me focusing my camera on a species that I have been photographing a lot lately.

Just like the previous trip, I only managed to show the Mangrove Blue-Flycatcher when we reached the Air Hitam Dalam Educational Forest. The female was the only one present this time but it was enough to add another species to my guest’s ever-growing Malaysian life list.

It was good to see the Streak-breasted Woodpecker after a long lapse. Although it was the duller female and a distant observation, the restricted range of this northern speciality made this encounter a significant one for the day.

The last destination of the day yielded one more uncommon species and it was a Javan Pond-Heron. The mudflats of Bagan Belat this season seems to be the preferred foraging ground for this species and quite a big number can be seen on a regular basis. Tomorrow we will be heading up for some cool mountain air and hopefully, lots of memorable birding encounters in Fraser Hill. That will be covered in my next post.

All in a day's work

There will always be challenges when one is a bird guide by profession. I am fully aware of that and sometimes, I think I would have given up had I been a lesser man. It takes a considerable amount of effort to conduct memorable birding tours here in northern Peninsula Malaysia and with each passing year it seems to get harder. What is a guide to do when his client has seen over 5000 species of birds? Well, my latest guest Sue has such a life list and all I could do was pray that the rarer birds perform above expectations – pray real hard. If that was not challenging, I had a shortage of time as she will be arriving in a cruise ship and that takes away almost two hours of prime birding time in the morning. Lucky for me, Sue and her partner Pam still appreciates the commoner species and lifers to them are not the only thing in birding. The Mangrove Pitta of Sungai Batu in Kedah state has been my saviour on countless occasions and it is no different this time. A pitta is a pitta and close encounters like this will leave even the most seasoned birders grasping for air.

The Puff-throated Babbler may not possess the electrifying presence of the pitta but its melodious song and inquisitive nature makes it a noteworthy species to encounter in the field.

Woodpeckers are known for their striking appearances and the Banded Woodpecker certainly does live up to expectations. A pair was seen sunning themselves at the edge of the mangroves. They were so indulged with the activity that our intrusion was ignored. The Banded Woodpecker is not an uncommon species and I am sure my guests have seen it before. They took the time to enjoy the encounter and it came as no surprise because I would have done the same.

The paddy fields of mainland Penang were up next and one of the flooded patches yielded a number of waders. Among the shades of brown was a Long-toed Stint almost in full breeding plumage. This peep is one of the most attractive species that occurs in freshwater habitats. The breeding colours only intensifies its appeal.

This is probably the best time of the year to have all three species of Pond-Herons at a single location – something somewhat unique to Penang state. Finding a Chinese Pond-Heron will never be an issue as it is the commonest of them all.

The Javan Pond-Heron, on the other hand, will require a little more effort. We came across this striking individual hunting on a flooded patch. Using our car as a hide, we managed to obtain good images of this uncommon migrant.

A plain looking Pond-Heron immediately caught my attention. As soon as I had my bins on it, I could hardly contain my excitement. It was my first Indian Pond-Heron in two seasons. Discovered wintering in Malaysia only less than 20 years ago in a paddy field just like this in Penang, my home state still remains to be the place in the country where it is more regularly recorded.

The last destination for the day was the swamp forest of Air Hitam Dalam. It was also my last chance to get Sue a lifer for this trip. As fate would have it, the Mangrove Blue Flycatcher would be a lifer for her. Initially, I thought it was a sure thing until I failed to locate the resident pair at Sungai Batu. Then again there is no such thing as a sure thing when it comes to birding. Today, the God’s are kind to me and it did not take long for her to enjoy her one and only lifer. But for me, the highlight from this location is a roosting Spotted Wood-Owl. Unlike previous visits, it was not partially hidden by the vegetation. Owls like pittas, have an aura of intrigue that captivates even if it is a common species.

The checklist of birds recorded:
1. Sungai Batu
2. Permatang Pauh
3. Air Hitam Dalam

The savage sea

I decided to visit Sungai Burung in Penang Island with whatever time I have left after work before meeting Hor Kee for some wader watching later by boat on the mainland. I was hoping to catch the Grey-tailed Tattler before it flies back to its breeding ground up north but a brief view was all that was given today. The commoner Terek Sandpiper was much more obliging today but there was little I could do about the harsh lighting as the noon hour was fast approaching.

The Chinese Pond-Herons were coming into their breeding colours nicely. With no signs of the other two rarer Pond-Herons, this time the commonest one was given its due attention and admiration.

The Brahminy Kite may be the commonest raptor in coastal areas but a full-fledged adult is still a striking bird. On a day when things are far from exciting, this scavenging bird of prey is a welcomed sight.

This Jungle Myna made me look twice as the colouration of this individual was very similar to that of a Javan Myna. There are still no records of the Javan Myna that I know of here in Penang but at the pace it is spreading up north, it should be only a matter of time.

After I quick lunch, I met up with my companions to embark on a rented boat to observe waders along the Bagan Ajam – Teluk Air Tawar coastline. It was a hot day but the heat was the least of my worries. The sea condition was less than favourable and the choppy waters drenched us despite all the efforts of our boatman to keep us dry. The constant rocking of the boat also made it difficult for photography. Luckily, our group had relatively strong sea legs or this wader excursion would have been a very short one. When we finally made our way to the waders, I tried my best to obtain some images in this testing condition. Godwits, both Black-tailed and Bar-tailed, have remarkable breeding plumages. Combined with the sheer size of the birds, stood out from their drab companions.

The Black-tailed Godwit provided better photographic opportunities and for that I am most grateful.

I often wonder if it is necessary to include “Far” in the Far Eastern Curlew’s name. Well, after all these years this is the only type of images I have of this scarce migrant. There is no more doubt about the name anymore. However, even at this distance the long decurved bill of the two birds resting on a mud bank still looked amazing.

A number of Brown-headed Gulls in their smart breeding plumages were also recorded today.

Some of them were using the concrete poles of the clam farms to rest and that gave us an opportunity for a more intimate observation.

The regular users of the poles, the terns, did not seem troubled by the presence of the larger gulls. Even the mighty Greater Crested Terns were dwarfed by them. Due to the strong waves, the boat could not remain at ideal shooting positions for long and that hampered our efforts for better images.

Not to be outdone by the gulls, some of them were sporting their full breeding plumages as well...

The Whiskered Terns are truly striking in their breeding plumages. I could not obtain any images of them in flight as they followed our boat today. I am grateful the sea did not rob me of all attempts to photograph this tern.

Birds may not be part of the White-bellied Sea-Eagle’s diet but I guess it is still intimidating for the terns to have a predator resting at such close proximity.

Back at the estuary, the boat ride was much more comfortable as we were protected by the mangroves. Humans are not the only ones who find shelter here. A number of egrets were seen resting here as they wait for the receding tide to exposed nutritious morsels to feed. The Great Egret, as the name implies, is the largest species presence and the most conspicuous.

The last bird for this marine adventure was a Javan Pond-Heron. Looking absolutely gorgeous in full breeding plumage, this blonde bombshell is all ready to fly back north for the breeding season. This may well be my last visit to the mudflats as the migratory is about to end. This season did not produce any truly significant moments for me. Hopefully, I will do better in the next one.

The checklist of birds recorded:
1. Sungai Burung
2. Teluk Air Tawar