Ben
is one of my regular guests and when this avid Singaporean birder wanted to
visit Bukit Larut (Maxwell Hill) in Taiping, Perak for some weekend birding, I was ready to
accommodate until I found out that the hill resort was closed for road works
due to landslide. Luckily, the caretaker of the Nest Bungalow, Mr. Lee, managed
to make the arrangements for a couple of hardcore birders to go up and spend a
night up on the hill. The jeep ride up the hill can be taxing for newcomers
because of all the hairpin corners and the aroma of the diesel-powered
transports. However, Ben took everything well in his stride. Halfway up the
hill, we almost had to cancel our plans if this fallen tree was any bigger.
Well, it seemed like Lady Luck was on our side and it did not take long to remove
the obstacle that was lying between us and our destiny.
Once
we completed the rather tedious hike up to the Nest Bungalow to unpack our
luggage and birding gear, we hit the jeep track leading up to the summit of
Bukit Larut. That is, after we took a minute to soak in the view from the
bungalow. It was certainly a bright and beautiful morning. Taiping is the
wettest area in Malaysia and sunny skies are somewhat of a privilege at times.
Bukit Larut is where I saw my first hornbill. I can never forget the first time I
heard the locomotive-like wing beats of these magnificent birds. Until now I
still get all excited when I hear them. To see and photograph a perched
hornbill at a close distance is something that does not happen very often.
Despite their enormous size, hornbills are shy creatures. To start things of
for this birding excursion was this male Rhinoceros Hornbill in all his glory
resting among the foliage of the canopy level not too far from the jeep track.
The distance was just about right for photography but unfortunately, confiding
as he may be, he was resting in the shade with the sun in front of him.
He
did not seem to mind our presence but we tried in vain to find a better
shooting angle. This is one of those times that I feel like just putting my
camera aside and enjoy the moment through my bins which I did after trying out
all other possibilities for a better shot.
We
came across several birdwaves along the jeep track. Dozens of species foraging
vigorously together always get the adrenalin pumping but can be a little too
fast and furious for photography. Bukit Larut this time has certainly exceeded
my expectations. While observing one of these birdwaves, I picked out a true
forest jewel resting
unobtrusively in
the canopy of the forest. It was a Long-tailed Broadbill and it appeared to be
quite comfortable in that position. I quickly signaled Ben over and both of us
enjoyed prolonged, stunning views of this extraordinary bird.
The
closure of the hill for the past few weeks could have been a factor in the high
level of bird activities along the jeep track. Without annoying humans about,
the birds may start to find the forest edge attractive and safe again. In
short, it was a blessing in disguise. I cannot remember the last time I saw a
Long-tailed Broadbill so confiding at such close proximity.
As
lunch time drew closer, dark clouds started to form. All meals were provided at
the bungalow and usually fresh from the stove. So, we still needed to make our
way back to the bungalow regardless of the weather condition. At the bungalow
below ours (the former famed Speedy Bungalow) we came across a fruiting tree.
An adorable Black-browed Barbet was gorging on the fruits and lunch will just
have to wait as it is not easy to see this canopy-loving species at eye level.
The
Ochraceous Bulbuls were also present at the fruiting tree but by then, the
lighting condition has changed dramatically from the sunny skies of morning.
A
lone Dark-sided Flycatcher alighted on a nearby banana tree while we were
still at the fruiting tree. It has no interest in the fruits but the fruits
also attracted insects which were what it was after.
By
the time we were finished with lunch, it had started to pour. Taiping was
living up to its reputation as the district that rains more often than the sun
shines. The dining area is an open porch with just a roof over our heads. It
was the perfect location to wait for birds to move through the forest on a
rainy day while enjoying a warm cup of tea - us enjoying the tea and not the
birds…
This
male Black-throated Sunbird's urge for nectar was about as relentless as the
torrential rain. He was constantly going round the flowering plants within the
compound and from what I can see it will take much more than rain to keep him
from getting his 'fix'.
I
was expecting our birding excursion to come to a complete standstill but a
flock of Mountain Bulbuls decided to pay us a visit and we sprung back into
birding mode. This species is the commonest bulbul that occurs in hill stations
of Peninsula Malaysia and it is no different here at Maxwell Hill.
Another
bulbul that was unperturbed by the rain was the Ashy Bulbul. Not as common as
the former but it was regularly seen during our stay here. The fruiting tree at
the bungalow below may have something to do with their regular presence.
This
male Mugimaki Flycatcher was still looking smart despite the wet conditions.
Unfortunately, we did not manage to relocate this striking species when the
weather improved.
When
the rain finally subsided, in came the mist and it was back to the comforts of
the dining table and another cup of tea...
Just
when we thought it was a good time to take a quick nap, the characteristic
sounds of hornbills in flight burst into the vicinity followed by what sounded
like the yelping of puppies. The Bushy-crested Hornbills have arrived! Despite
being partially concealed by the heavy mist, we tried our best to obtain some
photographs of this family of three - two adults with a recently fledged
juvenile.
When
the mist lifted, only the youngster was in sight. Both the parents bird have
shifted to the topmost part of the canopy to dry off. This, and the flock of Wreathed
Hornbills seen earlier, was the third hornbill species for the day. And that is
an achievement by itself. Despite the weather conditions being unfavourable at
times, this trip to Bukit Larut will go down as one of the best.
The
setting sun produced such an array of mesmerizing colours that even a hardcore
birder like me took the time to appreciate and that is something that I do not
usually do when I am out birding.
This
is a typical 4-dish meal by the caretaker-cum-cook of the Nest Bungalow, Mr.
Lee. It may not be much but to a couple of hungry birders that just came back
from an evening of birding under a blanket of mist, this is as good as it will get as far as we were concerned.
As
I was about to call it the night, Bukit Larut had one little surprise left for
me in one of the most unlikely places - the bathroom. A small dark-coloured
tree frog was taking shelter there and naturally, I took a few shots of it
using my iPhone. Although birds are my one true passion, other wildlife does
evoke interest as well. I did not know what species it was until I got home and
consulted Muin, a birding friend who studies reptiles and amphibians for a
living. How cool is that? Anyway, thanks to him I now know that it was a Pied
Warty Frog and apparently, it is not that common as he has not seen it before
in the wild. Is there no end to this amazing place?
It
was another beautiful morning the next day. However, we only had the morning to
bird as we need to follow the jeep down before noon. We decided to visit the
fruiting tree at the bungalow below again because it was too good of an
opportunity to be missed. And the Black-crested Bulbuls were thinking just the
same thing. Striking and comical at the same time, it was a delight to observe
them feasting on this natural buffet.
The
bulbuls were truly gorging themselves with the fruits...
I swear to God I even
see them momentarily immobilized due to too much eating...
With
more than enough food to go round and the soothing rays of the morning sun
hitting the tree at certain areas to provide a much-anticipated sunbath after a
wet and chilly night, these bulbuls are truly living the good life. This image
says it all...
As
we were waiting for our ride to arrive, an Oriental Honey-buzzard flew low
overhead to bid us farewell. This species is highly variable in plumage and the
root cause of much confusion and misery when it comes to raptor identification.
At first glance, I thought this juvenile bird was an Osprey!
From
the cool montane forest, we made our way to the hot mangrove forest of Kuala
Gula which was a short drive from the foothill. Nothing much was about but we
did take the opportunity to taste some of the seafood there for lunch. I had a
contingency plan if things did not work out at Kuala Gula. Ben mentioned that
the Yellow-rumped Flycatcher was one of his target birds and I know just the
place to go where you are almost ensured of one - the swamp forest of Air Hitam
Dalam in mainland Penang.
As
expected, the Yellow-rumped Flycatcher performed well. The hour-long drive from
our last location was certainly worth it. I am truly going to miss this little
guy come summer.
This
Green Crested Lizard was taking a little siesta in the sun on the same tree as
the flycatcher and it finally got our attention when the flycatcher moved on.
To
cap things off for this fantastic trip, we came across a pair of roosting Brown
Hawk-owls. They could not have chosen a better location to roost as it was
quite hidden and surrounded by vines. For us, they could not have chosen a worse
location as there were no way we could obtain any good images.
Are you done yet?
5 comments:
Great post - so many birds I can't pick a favourite...oh, okay Long-tailed Broadbill and the Bushy-crested Hornbills for a start.
I've heard of Bukit Larut so it's interesting to see photos of the place here.
A cup of tea and a view of the forest - perfect !
Thanks, John. Bukit Larut is a great place for birding but unfortunately, it is not as consistently good as Fraser's Hill and access is only by jeep.
Sounds like an amazing trip, I am envious of all that you saw.
Thanks, Wilma. It was certainly a memorable trip despite the slight hicuups.
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