During
our time in Khao Yai National Park, we ventured along a few forest trails
hoping to catch some elusive denizens and it worked – to a certain extent. I
may not be familiar with all the birdcalls in this region but Arjin is when it
mattered the most. Birds calling coming from the undergrowth are not to be
taken lightly especially when the first bird that comes to mind is a Pitta. Arjin
confirmed my hunch and we tried every trick in the book to get a pair of foraging
Eared Pittas to pose for a shot. Any kind of a shot. But it was not meant
to be.
Anyway,
the other trails that we took did reward us for our efforts. Broadbills also tend
to reveal their presence due to their vocalizations. Unlike the ground dweller,
this arboreal stunner eventually showed off its name’s sake for all to admire
and the black band across the throat indicated that it was a male.
We
were trekking along a trail leading to a waterfall at probably the hottest time
one day. Perspiration, fatigue and hunger tempted us to take a much-needed break.
Then we came across a section of the forest where a gap in the canopy allowed
the sunlight to pierce through and illuminate it like it was centre stage. As
fate would have it, a Blue-bearded Bee-eater was hunting in the limelight and the
existence of a Greater Power could not be denied – for the time being.
The
aerial predator chose this peculiar curvy vine because it was an ideal vantage
point. But for us, this exposed perch was an exceptionally photogenic point.
Usually,
one is more inclined to encountering strikingly coloured species for obvious
reasons. However, there are always exceptions like the case of Minivets. I was just
as exhilarated to come across a pale male because I knew he would soon be
another addition to my list of lifers for this trip. The foliage prevented me
for obtaining better images of the Rosy Minivet. But it did not hamper the
thrill that comes with encountering a bird for the very first time.
We
also took the time to appreciate the visitor centre and it was impressive. Our
guide Arjin was particularly proud of his images being used for two of the
backdrops here and he has every right to be. A group photo with his awesome
work was a souvenior none of us would want to miss.
During
this birding trip, I took things a little easier. Even sat down for coffee at one time which is
unheard of in the past. I guess the years are starting to take their toll on me.
And
since we are talking about years, I celebrated my birthday this year in the
wild interiors of Thailand. It may not be everyone ‘s cup of tea but I can
think of no better way (apart from celebrating it with my better half) to start
off another leg of my life journey than doing what I love best while I still
can.
This
idyllic lake near the entrance of the park was mesmerizing in evening
light. A great place to reflect in every sense of the word and watch
Brown-backed Needletails come for a drink.
Anywhere
else this would appear unusual but it is the norm to come across a huge Sambar Deer
trotting across the access road or just chilling in plain sight. This is a doe told
by the absence of antlers.
The
buck, on the hand, looks far more formidable with his majestic antlers. I did
some research to satisfy my curiosity as to why they are so tame. I knew feeding
is strictly prohibited within the national park and that is out of the
question. The truth was a little surprising. Apparently, the deer found that
being close to humans is safer than taking shelter in the forest where predators
lurked especially the pack-living Dholes. So, now you know.
For
that reason, you can admire up close and personal the true beauty of this
elegant animal within the park compound. If I don’t know any better, they
appeared to be enjoying human companionship as well.
The
Indian Muntjac or Barking Deer is only half the size of the Sambar Deer and
they too have found sanctuary among humans.
For
some reason, we only saw a buck on one occasion only. He may be lacking in size
but there is still lot of appeal to be appreciated especially when he provided a couple portrait.
There
were signs of a true giant of the forest here and there during our explorations.
However, I cannot be certain that I would want to actually come across Asian
Elephants especially on foot and totally vulnerable. You will notice I did not embed a link to the Asian Elephant because everyone knows what an elephant looks like. If you don't, then I seriously think this blog is not for you (and by the way, this is the dung of the animal and not the animal itself).
The
far-carrying territorial calls of the gibbon can be heard regularly in the park. However,
they are a little underwhelming when compared to a few of the forest reserves
back home. The immense size of the national could have an influence on this but
it is not important to draw a conclusion here. The privilege of observing a family
of White-handed Gibbons swinging across the forest with the grace of a
ballerina is.
A
little patience and luck later, one member of the family provided some of my
best images of this agile primate. Khao Yai National Park has certainly lived
up to its tagline and wildlife have found their little piece of heaven
on Earth.
I
am saving the best (mammal) for last. Porcupines are remarkably unique members of
the animal kingdom. My only experience with them are the nocturnal encounters
up in Bukit Larut where Brush-tailed Porcupines would scavenge for leftovers behind
one of the rest houses. It seems that this is a common practice for these
prickly creatures and The Malayan Porcupines (yes, plural) that we came across
were foraging next to a ranger’s quarters or something like that.
Like
most of the other mammals found within the borders of the park, they show very
little fear of humans and we were able to truly admire their impressive spikes
from a safe distance. I doubt the porcupines pose any threat to others unless
provoked. A Red Junglefowl definitely did not have any qualms foraging
alongside them. But some things are best left unproven.
One
of the porcupines even wandered towards us and that gesture wiped out any
chances of any other mammal peeping the Malayan Porcupine for top spot in my
mammal list. Such an amazing creature...
Everyone
in the group knew that observing pheasants here will be nothing like The Bird
Hide. It was going to be hard work. And it was! A glimpse of white in the undergrowth
can hardly justify a tick for an incredible species such as the Silver Pheasant. We actually saw him strolling along the road as we were exploring the isolated stretches
by truck. He was even flapping his wings and all to make sure we did not overlook his phenomenal presence. Once we took the bait, he would casually strolled into the dense vegetation of the undergrowth - twice. You read it right. We came across the Silver Pheasant twice minutes apart but could not be sure if it was the same individual. We tried to obtain some
images but you and I know how that worked out.
Khao
Yai National Park is home to another enigmatic pheasant but by the second day,
it felt like we were fighting a losing battle for the Siamese Fireback. When
another local guide showed us images of this very species taken earlier that
morning, we decided to wait it out at the spot in the evening hoping for a
repeat performance. And the next morning. Apparently, the Siamese Fireback is
not a creature of habit and we found out the hard way. A pair of vocalizing Coral-billed
Ground-Cuckoos could have been fair compensation had they revealed more than
their haunting territorial calls during our stake out for the pheasants. As we were about to drive out of the park for
the final time, I caught sight of none other than a flock of Siamese Firebacks
foraging next to the road. We only had seconds to position our vehicle and at
the same avoided any accidents with the abrupt stop; focus and
shoot. In the end, I obtained images only an owner can love.
Imagine
the odds. If we had gone past a minute later or the male decided to retreat
into the forest a minute earlier, the national bird of this country will remain
a painful dip-out. Well, it ain’t over till the fat lady sings. Only thing is
that it was no a fat lady but a cocky pheasant with stunning aesthetics. We had
a few outstanding lifers with reasonably good images through our birding excursions here. Yet, the
Siamese Fireback and everything that took place leading up to that moment in time was one
of the best experiences for me. A fairy tale ending for a visit to an enchanted
domain where wildlife truly thrives.
We explored a few open country and agricultural habitats in Khao Yai and also on our final day in central Thailand as we made our way to the airport. That will be covered in the last post of this amazing chapter of my birding life.
Checklist of the birds recorded in and around Khao Yai National Park:
https://ebird.org/checklist/S308164246
https://ebird.org/checklist/S308148085
https://ebird.org/checklist/S308147531
https://ebird.org/checklist/S307876905
https://ebird.org/checklist/S307874986




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