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Sunday, 15 April 2018

Good day, mate - Part 3


One of the reasons that Fraser’s Hill is such a haven for birding is the confiding nature of some of the resident birds. A few of the bungalows are known for the birds’ morning visits and several species can come together to forage on leftovers, handouts and insects attracted by lights during the night.


The Fire-tufted Barbet is huge by barbet standards. Combined with its striking appearance and signatory call, this barbet is certainly one of the star birds of this locality. The fiery lashes are usually hidden from view except when in close proximity. I try not to stare too long as they have a somewhat hypnotic effect – on me anyways.




Moving about in noisy flocks, the Long-tailed Sibia is one of the more conspicuous birds of hill stations like this. What it lacks in colour is made up with character. And a flock in search of breakfast is a delightful encounter.




I have yet to obtain any close shots of the male Black-and-crimson Oriole although I see it during most of my visits to the mountains of Peninsular Malaysia. Having no yellow at all in its plumage already makes this oriole unique and its skittish nature makes it a bird that I always keep a lookout for when I am in its neck of the woods.


There are little brown jobs that call this hill resort home but because of their less radiating appearance, they are usually ignored. The Buff-breasted Babbler is no ordinary brown job to me as it is uncommon where I come from. Even here, it takes some effort to obtain decent shots.


The evening sky brought the rains in and my Australian guests decided to have a little siesta before dinner. Despite the obvious setback, I wandered out on my own and tried my luck at the Malaysian Partridges’ tuft. When the rain trickled to a stop, my quarries strolled into view from the ravine below. I, just sat back and enjoyed the show.



However, there were no signs of the little bundles of joy like yesterday. It is possible that these birds are from a different flock as there is a healthy population of these endemic gamebirds here in Fraser’s Hill.


An explosive series of double note whistle echoed through vicinity from a nearby ravine followed by the calls of a second bird. A heightened sense of exhilaration overtook me. I now have two Rusty-naped Pittas calling persistently in front of me. Experience has taught me this is one of the most difficult and shyest birds to see. But I yearn for my first ever photograph of this terrestrial creature. I crawled my way into the ravine an inch at a time and waited patiently crouched like a rock. Leeches and God knows what else were no longer relevant. One of the pittas was just beyond a line of understorey vegetation. I lost track of time as the pitta proved to be as elusive as ever. Sweat began to trickle down my temple and my legs cramped up from this uncomfortable position. Then a rustling of leaf litter beyond my shoulder propelled the moment to the point of climax but when whatever it was making the noise finally came into view, it turned to be only an inquisitive Malaysian Partridge and not the Rusty-naped Pitta which I had hoped for. I looked down the ravine only to see the Rusty-naped Pitta hopping across and disappeared into the vegetation. Reluctantly, I hauled myself up the ravine a broken man.


The next morning, I was still reeling from the disappointment with the Rusty-naped Pittas. Failing to capture the Mountain Scops-owl and Grey Nightjar before dawn offered no relief at all. But this is Fraser’s Hill. A premier birding site in Malaysia. And you do not stay disappointed for long. The Sultan Tit is a living work of art and a pair was foraging confidingly in our presence. We, the humans were certainly humbled by its divine beauty. Insects attracted by the lights of the bungalow the night before often linger around well into the morning. That in turn attracts insectivores like the Sultan Tit.


It would have been the perfect start to the day if we were better positioned to capture the courtship feeding of this pair of Sultan Tits. But I guess there is a limit to the magic of this birding paradise.


A pair of Mountain Imperial Pigeons resting on a lofty perch slightly shrouded by mist was a picture of blissful serenity...


Swooping in from the adjacent forest, a pair of Common Green Magpies shattered that peace and quiet with their resonant calls. This is another resident that is a true gem of the montane forest. The sheer size of the magpie only amplifies its striking appearance. The availability of food enticed this usually shy bird right out into the open. At such close quarters, the Common Green Magpie is an impressive bird indeed.



With poise and grace, a few Lesser Racket-tailed Drongos hawked for insects in the vicinity. Unfortunately, only one had the long tail streamers. Sod’s Law then came into play and that particular individual somehow managed to evade all my attempts to photograph it.


Fraser’s Hill is not only about birds. It has so much more to offer as well. This trip, I managed to obtain some images of squirrels that roam the forest here. The Pallas's Squirrel is a commonly encountered species. A confiding individual had my attention momentarily and I managed to capture some of the best images to date.


The Himalayan Striped Squirrel moves at hyper speed most of the time. Its diminutive size makes it adorable but it also makes it difficult to photograph. A pair were having a territorial dispute and in between the high speed pursuits around one particular tree trunk, the squirrels will pause for a breather. I took advantage of this repetitive behaviour to finally add this species to my digital collection.


My best moment in Fraser’s Hill this time took place on our last day. I decided to take my guests birding along the road that goes down to the Gap. There is one resident bird of Fraser’s Hill that has eluded me all these years and I have made it a point to mesmerize its call. As we made past a deep ravine, there was no mistake of what was calling down below – the elusive Marbled Wren-Babbler. Excitement soon turned to frustration as the calling bird remained hidden from view. Out of desperation, I descended the ravine and a brief view of my lifer moving deeper into the forest was all that I got in return.  A distant shot of a young Slaty-backed Forktail shortly after was very little compensation for my failure to photograph the Wren-Babbler.


We made one last visit to the stakeout where the White-tailed Robin frequents and were not disappointed. The male bird showed off his subtle yet enchanting colouration for our group to admire and appreciate.



The final bird for the Fraser’s Hill chapter is the Rufous-browed Flycatcher. A small bird that spends a lot time in dimly lighted undergrowth and with its soft high pitched song as the only indication of its presence. The puffy white throat does give the flycatcher some contrast to its plumage. However when seen in good light, it does boost enough appeal to earn some space in my memory card. From here, we headed down to the lowlands of Selangor where a whole different set of birds await. That will be covered in my next post.



Friday, 13 April 2018

Good day, mate - Part 2


We finally arrived at one of the best birding sites in Malaysia which is the montane forest of Fraser’s Hill in Pahang State. The town centre has not changed much through the years with the iconic clock tower still standing proud and greeting every guest as they make their way past the winding road up from the Gap.


However, I did not drive 4 hours from Penang just to admire colonial architectures. As soon as we settled our accommodations at this rustic hill resort, we were off in pursuit of feathered denizens that find sanctuary here. The first spot that we went to is where the endemic Malaysian Partridges are regularly seen. It took a long while for the partridges to show. Lucky for us, we had the commoner species to keep us company. The Oriental Magpie-Robin is still doing well in this cool mountainous environment and an adult male looks just as good as he sings.


It did not take long for the Chestnut-capped Laughingthrush to show and soon, we were surrounded by these vocal and inquisitive birds. I may be getting immune to the birds’ colourful presence but to a first timer like my Australian guests, the Chestnut-capped Laughingthrush is one hell of a bird.



Overshadowed by its more conspicuous relatives, the Malayan Laughingthrush prefers to take a more discreet entrance. However being the rarer of the two, it naturally had our attention too.



I find the Common Emerald Dove to be a difficult bird to observe as it is wary of human intrusion. However, the doves here are accustomed to human presence and intimate encounters with this striking ground dweller is possible for a change.



The wait for the Malaysian Partridge was a long one – just like my last attempt here almost a year ago. Time came to a standstill when the first of the partridges appeared. Followed closely by another and another. Then came the one of the main highlights of the trip. Four fluffy and adorable chicks hopped out from the shadowy world of the forest understorey.


The chicks stuck to the adults like magnet to steel. Needless to say it was for their survival and wellbeing.



It is good to see these elusive gamebirds thriving. The sight of the next generation of Malaysian Partridges melted my heart away. It was not expected and that made the encounter all the sweeter.


This is what the chicks will eventually transform into – a striking adult perfectly adapted to life among the leaf litter and undergrowth.


The undergrowth is home to a number of exquisite bird species and one such bird is the White-tailed Robin. Due to its preference for dark gullies and ravines, this secretive bird does not often reveal its true beauty especially the male. The two white tail streaks from which its name is derived is probably all you see as the robin makes its getaway. Thus, to have a handsome male White-tailed Robin out in the open is an encounter can drop a seasoned birder to his knees. In which I did – in order to obtain more intimate images of this beauty of a bird.



It would be difficult for the White-tailed Robin to be overshadowed but it was in the hands, or should I say wings, of a male Orange-headed Thrush. With a colour combination of bright orange head and underparts contrasting sharply against greyish blue upperparts, this uncommon migrant is a true visual feast.


I have only a handful of encounters with this thrush but this is the best one by far. Our first day at this birding haven is drawing to a close and I am absolutely delighted to have this species wrapped things up.


The next morning, we were on a quest to see one of the most striking birds of this hill resort. The great thing about this bird is that it is not too difficult to locate here. Time yourself right at a particular stretch of road and you will have a very good chance to catch the gorgeous Red-headed Trogon hunting for breakfast at the forest edge. The male, naturally, has more vivid colouration and today Lady Luck was on our side. Not only did we have a male bird in all his glory but there was hardly any mist which is the norm at this hour.


The lighting may not be ideal but it could rob the trogon of his splendour. Throughout our observation, he moved about leisurely along the forest edge. From overhead electric cables to the foliage of trees; no matter where he alighted he graced the vicinity with his presence and it was a mesmerizing affair.




One of the biggest of our flycatchers, the Large Niltava is another common species here in Fraser’s Hill. For someone who does not spend enough time birding in the mountains, the male Large Niltava will always have my admiration even if he is ringed for I suppose scientific purposes. Why else would some human want to spoil the natural beauty of this bird by placing gaudy coloured rings on its legs, right?


The living mascot of Fraser’s Hill is the Silver-eared Mesia. And deservingly so I might add. Common, confiding, colourful and cheerful; this montane babbler is always a delight to encounter. This post is now getting a bit too lengthy for my liking and I will continue my write up of this amazing place in my next post.