Compromising is the key to all happiness

 

It has been far too long since I last experienced the birding wonders of Fraser’s Hill. When my better half suggested we should do a short getaway from our hectic working lives and each choose a location, mine was an easy decision. Initially, I had my doubts if it was even possible for a birder like yours truly to have a somewhat normal vacation up this hill resort. However, the years have taught me that a happy marriage is all about compromise and compromise I did. It was only a night’s stay and I booked a cozy (and birdy) little bungalow that will hopefully be able to keep both of us satisfied.

Stephen’sPlace lived up to its reputation from the gracious host to the romantic interiors and the pristine surroundings. Stephen the owner, for some time now, has been running a second place called the MCM Nature Discovery Villa which is more impressive and just a short walk from the first bungalow. It has a mini library and a host of other facilities to keep, you know, ‘normal’ guests occupied during their vacation in Fraser’s Hill. However, I have been exposed to the treasures this rich ecosystem hold. Once you are exposed, you are smitten for life and the only time you can find me indoors during the day and not out birding is when the weather is unforgiving. Except for this occasion.

There is a watch tower at the villa with stunning views of this lush montane forest. But for me, the view was not the only thing that had my attention.

I would have trembled with exhilaration if this was taken at some Godforsaken marsh out there in the wilds but this Mandarin Duck is also part of the attractions here.

And no, I did not leave my wife to fend for herself during our visit. That is not compromising. We explored the rustic charms of Fraser’s Hill and took leisurely walks together. If there is one thing in life that can rival my passion for birds, it would be her. And time spent together is time well spent. It also made it easier to excuse myself for a few hours the next morning to bird.

Now, to the birds. I restricted my birding endeavours to the bungalow compounds and nearby vicinities. And I was fortunate that a fruiting tree next to the compound was in season and it attracted flocks of Little Cuckoo-Doves. For this common montane species, heard only records and birds seen in flight constitute most encounters. However, the availability of food can sometimes sway the will of even the most secretive species.

The Little Cuckoo-Doves took very little effort to conceal their presence and neither did I. I slowly repositioned myself to improve my photographic efforts and the doves continued to tolerate my intrusion. It has been a relatively uneventful birding year for me and naturally this encounter is up there among the best.

Typical of pigeons and doves, they are far from graceful when foraging. Plenty of flapping and lumbering about as these sizeable birds struggle for foot holds in order to reach the succulent fruits.

As far as I can tell, all the images I obtained were of male birds – not that it mattered. The mesmerizing pale blue eyes were bewitching and rekindled my love for this amazing birding locality.

Flowering trees, natural or planted, are heaven-sent for nectar feeders like the Streaked Spiderhunter. And the garden at Stephen’s Place is one of the easiest spots to observe this common but striking species.

The Streaked Spiderhunter was the most photographed species this time. It came as no surprise given the amount of time I spent at the compound. One particular individual was exceptionally confiding and left me breathless on more than one occasion. Most of the time, the status of a bird is irrelevant to me. It is the experience provided that holds the true value.

I usually do not expect remarkable images from my modest setup and moderate photographic skills. But on those rare occasions when my images turn out better than expected, it is simply magical even for a common species.

The Black-throated Sunbirds also patronized the lovely blooms of this garden but on this trip, the males were reluctant to fully reveal their splendour for my viewing pleasure.

Moths and other insects are attracted to the lights of the bungalow at night and a number of fascinating species greeted us on the morning of our stay here. I will not attempt to identify the moths I am sharing in this post as we all know, identification of insects is a whole different ball game. But their appeal certainly did not go unappreciated.

My beloved avian subjects also took a keen interest on the moths but theirs are of a different nature. Large Cuckooshrikes boldly swoop in overhead to carry off larger insects for breakfast. Just like the phenomenon of fruiting trees in season, gluttony is a deadly sin few can resist.

I was a little disappointed with the variety of birds that were recorded at this banquet but the memorable performance by the diminutive Black-thighed Falconet single-handedly kept that feeling in check.

Birds that occur in the mountains tend to be more obliging than their lowland counterparts. Add a seemingly endless supply of food into the mix and you will find yourself enjoying rather intimate observations that would otherwise not be easily obtainable.

Unlike the Little Cuckoo-doves, the Black-thighed Falconet forages or more accurately, hunts with deadly precision. I must admit the hunts are nothing as spectacular as the larger falcons’ but they are still quite a sight.

Although it is a known birding hotspot, one is not guaranteed a rewarding excursion every single time. Nothing in birding ever is. A flock of Hume’s White-eyes with their cheerful calls and active nature is rather difficult to be overlooked during my brief birding endeavours beyond the bungalow grounds. The conditions under the lush forest canopy made photography challenging and a stroke of good fortune produced this decent capture of a resting individual.

Persistent vocalization gave away the presence of Buff-breasted Babblers skulking away in the undergrowth. Patience and determination provided brief glimpses into their secretive world. Mist and poor lighting may appeal to some as it provides the mountainside feel. However, I greeted them with profanities because they hindered my efforts to capture the babblers significantly.

It is always a treat to be serenaded by the sweet repertoires of the Oriental Magpie-Robin. However, I did not put in much effort to photograph this songster as I was constantly distracted by other species present. This is, after all, a birding site rivalled by few in Peninsular Malaysia.

A migratory Grey Wagtail foraging along the edge of a manmade pond briefly held my attention. But the distance and restless nature of this individual were unlikely to improve the encounter if I had decided not to withdraw my efforts.

And to wrap things up for this revisit to a beloved birding ground is this image of a Tiger Shrike with its most vital parts concealed by the vegetation. No one ever said birding or bird photography is always easy. But I guess that is beauty of the birding as it keeps you coming back for more.

Holiday blues...(06/07/2106)

I was really looking to this 4-day birding tour with my regular guest Ben as we would be exploring the pristine forest of Taman Negara Sungai Relau in Pahang. It has been 7 years since my last visit to this birding haven and that is an awfully long time. As it was the Malay New Year, the national park will only be opened on the second day of our tour. Since Cameron Highlands was along the way to Sungai Relau, I decided to let Ben experience birding there at the mossy forest of Gunung Brinchang – the highest point in Peninsular Malaysia that is accessible by car. I was expecting a crowd at this popular hill resort during our overnight stay but it cannot be all that bad or so I thought. It was a very long holiday break with Hari Raya, Heritage Day and Penang Governor’s Birthday. My intention of showing some of the montane species to my Singaporean guest could blow up in my face as the hill was overrun with visitors. Traffic congestion is the last thing any birder would want to face during a birding excursion.

This montane forest has been heavily marred by development and agriculture. I am not sure how much more Mother Nature can endure this onslaught. It is truly disheartening to see what has become of this locality.

Fortunately, there is enough left in this old girl to provide a couple of birders with some memorable experiences. The access road up Gunung Brinchang is one of the few places left where the natural environment has barely suffered under the hands of man. And it is along this mossy slope that we had some decent birding.

There are a few montane specialists that find refuge here. Although we missed out on all the rarer species, the commoner Golden-throated Barbet took centre stage and provided one of the main highlights. It was a close encounter but the constant movement of the bird and the harsh lighting made it difficult for me to capture better images.

We came across several birdwaves throughout the day but one particular wave had the birds coming towards us quite low and sometimes below eye level because we were overlooking a ravine. The Grey-chinned Minivet is not an uncommon bird but there is nothing common about the male’s remarkable plumage. His vivid red and black plumage is easily one of the most outstanding in the avian world. I can spend hours ogling at him especially when he is not flitting about his usual domain among the forest canopy. This is the kind of encounter that is responsible for keeping my passion for birding alive after all these years. This is also the kind of encounter that justifies the usage of profanity to describe this fucking incredible moment.

I do not like to see Blue Nuthatches in a bird wave. I get so enthralled with their antics and beauty that I usually miss out on all other species that come along. I have tried for years to get some decent images of this species but their hyperactive nature and preference for the canopy levels have always got in the way. Well, today was my lucky day. Following the minivet’s encounter, this oddly beautiful bird made sure that my adrenalin stayed at this heightened level.

Typical of nuthatches, they like to crawl upside down along tree trunks and branches. Yes, that makes them a delight to observe but a real hassle to photograph. None of my images had the bird right side up in the end. That would have been a killjoy normally. This time, however, I am elated to have finally obtained some reasonably good images.

We are spoilt for choice when it comes to accommodations here in Cameron Highlands. They come in all shapes and sizes – from posh hotels to basic dormitories. De’ Native Guesthouse was highly recommended by Hor Kee and it was not hard to see why. It is located conveniently within Tanah Rata but secluded enough to escape all the activities of the township. The guest house was rather basic but it serves its purpose well enough. And the surrounding environment, serene and lush.

Most of all, birding around the guesthouse was good. The compound will usually have a few of the common birds loitering around. One of them is the Everett’s White-eye. These birds greeted us almost every time we walked around the compound but being small and active, obtaining good images is a tall order.

The distinctive whistle of the Lesser Shortwing filled the vicinity throughout the day. We were fortunate enough to get this adorable species out in the open on one occasion and some of our best images of it were obtained. The Lesser Shortwing is common at most hill stations but their skulking habits among the dark undergrowth make them challenging subjects.

Sharing similar habitats and habits, the White-tailed Robin is another alluring resident of the montane forest here. A lone female foraging along the road leading to the guest house in the late evening wrapped things up for us for the day. Despite the holiday crowd and ongoing habitat destruction works, Cameron Highland turned out to be a good start to the tour. Our next destination is Taman Negara Sungai Relau – the main objective of the tour. That will be covered in my next post. Any visit to Taman Negara deserves a post of its own.