Journey to The Mountain City of China

 

There are a few places in China that has gained tremendous popularity as tourist destinations in recent years. Chongqing which is located in the south-western side of this massive country is one of them. My better half and I decided to go for a regular tour to this holiday destination and initially, I considered leaving my birding gear at home for this one. A similar tour that we had to Vietnam where I managed to obtain one significant experience from only a single bird throughout the entire visit was not exactly encouraging. However, a little research online and optimism convinced me otherwise just before the departure date.

Chongqing certainly lived up to its reputation. The countryside was truly amazing and were my favourite parts of this sightseeing excursion.

Do not get me wrong. The city was impressive too with a rich mixture of tradition and modern technology.

However, it is after dark that this so-called Cyberpunk City comes to life and reveals its true splendour.

In terms of birds, Chongqing exceeded my expectations. Although it is only casual birding, I noticed that quite a few places were teeming with birds – even in the city centre. One particular species was quite prominent in the countryside and it was the Red-billed Blue-Magpie. I have recorded it in Cambodia before but it was certainly scarcer there.

Big, colourful and loud; I crossed paths with this remarkable bird on several occasions throughout the tour. Even my sightseeing tour guide is quite familiar with this species and that supports my guess of the bird’s status here. I know that the grass is always greener on the other side but just look at it. There is not one inch of the Red-billed Blue-Magpie that spells ordinary.

We visited several rivers during our 8-day stay and most of them had their own distinct charms. The smaller ones especially if they were rocky, had my undivided attention. Not so much for their appeal but for the feathered residents that they might house.

One particular river stood out from the rest and the circumstances in which things unfolded was unfortunately, bittersweet. Our group was waiting for our turn to embark on a boat trip in the Puhua district. There was a long queue and for almost an hour, we were on an elevated waiting area overlooking the river. While the rest of the group grew restless, I was overwhelmed with excitement because it was a great vantage point for birding. It began with the unmistakeable presence of a forktail foraging directly below. Upon further scrutiny, the greyish back was undeniable. And there is only so much that a familiar species like a Slaty-backed Forktail can conjure up for me despite the prolonged observation.

A pair of Plumbeous Redstarts was also flitting about the fast-flowing waters of this idyllic river. And just like the ones I encountered in Vietnam, they were rather confiding. I have to admit that I did not pay as much attention to them as much as I should have. I was feeling optimistic. After obtaining a record shot of the male Plumbeous Redstart, I started scanning every inch of the river in hopes of obtaining of my first global lifer of the trip. When the wait for the boat was over, I reluctantly kept my gear only to catch sight of a stunning male White-capped Redstart flying across the river and alighting on the rocks where I have been staring at just minutes ago. There was no way of halting the boat without making a scene and I could only watch my lifer until the distance was just too great.

Our tour took us to several scenic areas with amazing limestone formations and lush landscapes. As expected, I managed to capture just a small fraction of the birds found here. During overseas vacations with my better half, the key to an enjoyable outing is moderation and compromising. Despite being surrounded by an array of bird calls very foreign to me, I still have the discipline to pull myself away when required. What can I say? She has trained me well.

Collared Finchbills are interesting-looking birds that I have encountered before in Taiwan. An individual attracted to a fruiting tree provided one of the notable encounters for my China trip. The fruiting tree was located at the entrance to the City Grand Canyon of Qianjiang. I took it as a sign from above but one rarely gets the satisfaction of being right based on gut feelings alone when it comes to birding – rarely but not never.

The fruits also attracted a Pallas’s Squirrel and since only the Finchbill was the only other species present, the rodent had some time in the limelight.

White-browed Laughingthrushes are relatively common in this region. Despite occurring in flocks and showing little fear to human presence, they have a tendency of keeping themselves partially hidden. And their active nature compounds my frustration. Perhaps it is just bad luck. Luckily, I still have this one photo to show in the end.

Drably-coloured bulbuls often require effort to positively identify. Back in Malaysia, this is a constant challenge and I guess it is no different here. Although the Brown-breasted Bulbul is not exactly drab, I was still uncertain of its identification until I consulted Dave.

And just like back home, fruiting trees are a natural magnet for bulbuls. I wished I had more time for the birds patronizing this tree but this lifer will just have to do. Moderation and compromising, remember?

We had our first Daurian Redstart in Malaysia a few years back. The bird, despite being the duller female, provided much excitement at the time. I know fully well how attractive the male can be and when I finally saw him in the flesh, he was even more stunning. My gut feeling turned out right and this location contributed the most species for my photographic efforts.   

The Fairy Mountain was one of the destinations I looked forward to for the trip. Based on my research and AI assistance, it should be the place that will make lugging more than two kilograms of photographic gear around during a regular tour worth the while. Our tour bus finally crossed into the boundaries of The Fairy Mountain National Forest Park after midday. The mist was unbelievable heavy which was something I did not expect to face at this hour. Everyone in the tour group was elated with this mesmerizing condition. I was devastated.

Luckily, I did not end up empty-handed. While on board one of the shuttle buses that operates within the park, I caught sight of a flock of Collared Crows resting on dead tree next to the access road. This lifer would have made a fine addition to my photographic efforts for the trip but instead it became one of the major disappointments in terms of bird photography. The Azure-winged Magpies, which I came across in an urban park within the city centre on the last day of our tour, was another heartbreaker. And that time, it was not due to being in a moving bus but Murphy’s Law. I decided to leave my gear in our hotel room thinking I could not possibly encounter anything during a city tour that warrant the use of my camera. A goddamn lifer proved me wrong.

Anyway, back to Fairy Mountain (I think Misty Mountain would be a more appropriate name). A few Oriental Magpies have adapted to surviving off scraps left behind by visitors to this tourist hotspot and judging from the huge crowd when I was there, these birds have it made. Despite the mist, the images turned out better than expected and the bold nature of the birds was a big help.

The main birding highlight of this trip took place on another mountain, Jinfosan. The open areas yielded a distant Long-tailed Shrike. As it is not uncommon in my country, this record shot was sufficient.

We then walked along a nature trail that reminded me of The Mossy Forest Eco Park in Cameron Highlands. As with most of the sites we visited, the scenery was fascinating. After capturing this photo, my wife excitedly signalled and told me that there were birds along the path in front of her and I rushed over.

Instead of finding the birds gone, which would be the usual case, the birds were still there. In fact, the flock appeared to be moving towards me. I knew they were Red-tailed Laughingthrushes and their beauty precedes them. The flock consisted of both adults and juveniles. Naturally, the young ones were much bolder. At times, I could have given them a pat on the head!

To be in such close proximities with these birds was an incredible experience. I find it hard to recall the last time I was given such privilege. The Red-tailed Laughingthrush is a fitting species to end my casual birding endeavour to China. Just like most of the attractions here, the bird was striking and definitely memory-making material.

Not so ordinary garden birds...

 

My birding endeavours take me to all kinds of locations ranging from spectacular mountain tops and lush tropical rainforests to bleak coastal mudflats. However, there is one type of habitat that I will try to avoid and that is habitats with humans. Wherever there are humans, there will usually be situations. Situations that I can do without when I am enjoying my birding. I guess there is some truth when some consider me to be somewhat anti-social but I will not be losing any sleep over that. Before I carried away with this, I better get back to the birds. That is what this blog is all about after all. A quiet neighbourhood in the outskirts of Taiping became the centre of attention when the presence of Common Hoopoes was discovered. This enigmatic species is still considered rare here in Peninsular Malaysia with irregular records throughout the years. I have personally recorded this species as far back as 2003 and it is not new to me. But at this particular location, it appears to be thriving and that is good enough a reason for a visit.

With my companions Hor Kee and Rodney, we arrived at our destination just after dawn. The first bird that caught my attention was a Crested Goshawk surveying its domain from a lofty perch. This stunning raptor was a great way to start off the day and I began to develop a good feeling about this modest location.

A pair of Oriental Pied Hornbills compounded the feeling as they wandered about the housing area. No matter how many times I have recorded this species living alongside humans, it still evokes the same amount of excitement.

I guess the same can be said about Lineated Barbets but on a lesser scale. Well, very few things in life can rival the awe of hornbills and that is the brutal truth. From the look of things, the barbets have also found sanctuary here and the population is set to increase.

A lone Asian Openbill casually foraging within a house compound certainly took me by surprise. There is no doubt this species has come a long way since when they first started to colonize Peninsular Malaysia back in 2010. But this cool fellow is taking it to a whole new level.

Pink-necked Pigeons occur even in my own home compound and I would find it odd if I do not come across them here. Here is a male feeling a little dismay that the lighting condition and my photographic effort did not do much justice to his true appeal.

Another common species of built-up areas is the Asian Glossy Starlings. Electrical cables are predominant in any housing area and birds have a tendency to use them as perches. For birders, this behaviour eases our main mission in life which is to find and observe.

For a bird photographer, these man-made perches hold little value for their photographic effort. This applies to even a striking species like the Blue-throated Bee-eater. In my eyes (and the bird’s), the cable is a strategic point for it to launch aerial assaults on flying insects. If it good enough for the bird, it is good enough for my camera.

The Red-whiskered Bulbul is a species you do not get to see in a lot of neighbourhoods. So, it was heartening to see one here. There is a possibility of escapees for the beautiful bird as it is a popular cage bird. Either way it will not cause any major scientific impact if I get the status wrong for this individual.

I stated earlier birds on cables are more conspicuous and to proof my point, that is how we got our first Common Hoopoe of the day. This may be normal sight in neighbouring countries like Thailand but in my own, it will take some getting used to.

Eventually, we managed to locate a flock of at least five birds consisting of adults and sub-adults as feeding still took place within the flock. During my documentation of the birds, I could not really tell any differences between the birds. All of them were striking and charismatic.

When I scrutinized my photographs back home, I noticed that all the birds I shot had slightly shorter bills. Only then did I realize that maybe both the adult birds managed to evade my photographic efforts.  

The discomfort of a “human-habitat” started to take its toll and we shifted to the second destination of the trip which is the foothills of Bukit Larut. Soon after our arrival, we were greeted by the diagnostic territorial call of the Banded Broadbill. It took a little effort but the result was rewarding. Often hidden by the cover of the forest canopy, a good view like this is a real godsend to me.

I could not believe it when another broadbill species decided to show well after the first encounter. The Black-and-yellow Broadbill can be confiding at times but the individual today has surpassed that point.

The full black collar indicated that it was a male bird and that feature is only the difference between the sexes. He is a truly exquisite creature of the forest.

A few fruiting trees in the vicinity were in season and they attracted the usual groups of bulbuls. Among them was a female Blue-winged Leafbird and she was the only that managed to find her way into my memory card.

The Verditer Flycatcher is a species that I have not seen for a long while now. When one decided to hawk for insects nearby, I was elated. It may be the duller female but the prolonged encounter was fair compensation.

I know I always lament how frustrating forest birding can be but apparently, not today. Another female bird provided a memorable encounter and she was a Raffles’s Malkoha. Initially she played hard to get, typical of most desirable ladies. On a more serious note, malkohas are usually difficult subject for photography and the Raffles’s Malkoha is no different. But the good girl performed unexpectedly well in the end and made every birder present fell head over heels for her.

Here is one final image of the alluring Raffles’s Malkoha to wrap things up this time. The foothills of a colonial hill station and a surprisingly birdy neighbourhood certainly rose up to the occasion and provided ample material for another entry to my birding blog.