Journey to The Mountain City of China

 

There are a few places in China that has gained tremendous popularity as tourist destinations in recent years. Chongqing which is located in the south-western side of this massive country is one of them. My better half and I decided to go for a regular tour to this holiday destination and initially, I considered leaving my birding gear at home for this one. A similar tour that we had to Vietnam where I managed to obtain one significant experience from only a single bird throughout the entire visit was not exactly encouraging. However, a little research online and optimism convinced me otherwise just before the departure date.

Chongqing certainly lived up to its reputation. The countryside was truly amazing and were my favourite parts of this sightseeing excursion.

Do not get me wrong. The city was impressive too with a rich mixture of tradition and modern technology.

However, it is after dark that this so-called Cyberpunk City comes to life and reveals its true splendour.

In terms of birds, Chongqing exceeded my expectations. Although it is only casual birding, I noticed that quite a few places were teeming with birds – even in the city centre. One particular species was quite prominent in the countryside and it was the Red-billed Blue-Magpie. I have recorded it in Cambodia before but it was certainly scarcer there.

Big, colourful and loud; I crossed paths with this remarkable bird on several occasions throughout the tour. Even my sightseeing tour guide is quite familiar with this species and that supports my guess of the bird’s status here. I know that the grass is always greener on the other side but just look at it. There is not one inch of the Red-billed Blue-Magpie that spells ordinary.

We visited several rivers during our 8-day stay and most of them had their own distinct charms. The smaller ones especially if they were rocky, had my undivided attention. Not so much for their appeal but for the feathered residents that they might house.

One particular river stood out from the rest and the circumstances in which things unfolded was unfortunately, bittersweet. Our group was waiting for our turn to embark on a boat trip in the Puhua district. There was a long queue and for almost an hour, we were on an elevated waiting area overlooking the river. While the rest of the group grew restless, I was overwhelmed with excitement because it was a great vantage point for birding. It began with the unmistakeable presence of a forktail foraging directly below. Upon further scrutiny, the greyish back was undeniable. And there is only so much that a familiar species like a Slaty-backed Forktail can conjure up for me despite the prolonged observation.

A pair of Plumbeous Redstarts was also flitting about the fast-flowing waters of this idyllic river. And just like the ones I encountered in Vietnam, they were rather confiding. I have to admit that I did not pay as much attention to them as much as I should have. I was feeling optimistic. After obtaining a record shot of the male Plumbeous Redstart, I started scanning every inch of the river in hopes of obtaining of my first global lifer of the trip. When the wait for the boat was over, I reluctantly kept my gear only to catch sight of a stunning male White-capped Redstart flying across the river and alighting on the rocks where I have been staring at just minutes ago. There was no way of halting the boat without making a scene and I could only watch my lifer until the distance was just too great.

Our tour took us to several scenic areas with amazing limestone formations and lush landscapes. As expected, I managed to capture just a small fraction of the birds found here. During overseas vacations with my better half, the key to an enjoyable outing is moderation and compromising. Despite being surrounded by an array of bird calls very foreign to me, I still have the discipline to pull myself away when required. What can I say? She has trained me well.

Collared Finchbills are interesting-looking birds that I have encountered before in Taiwan. An individual attracted to a fruiting tree provided one of the notable encounters for my China trip. The fruiting tree was located at the entrance to the City Grand Canyon of Qianjiang. I took it as a sign from above but one rarely gets the satisfaction of being right based on gut feelings alone when it comes to birding – rarely but not never.

The fruits also attracted a Pallas’s Squirrel and since only the Finchbill was the only other species present, the rodent had some time in the limelight.

White-browed Laughingthrushes are relatively common in this region. Despite occurring in flocks and showing little fear to human presence, they have a tendency of keeping themselves partially hidden. And their active nature compounds my frustration. Perhaps it is just bad luck. Luckily, I still have this one photo to show in the end.

Drably-coloured bulbuls often require effort to positively identify. Back in Malaysia, this is a constant challenge and I guess it is no different here. Although the Brown-breasted Bulbul is not exactly drab, I was still uncertain of its identification until I consulted Dave.

And just like back home, fruiting trees are a natural magnet for bulbuls. I wished I had more time for the birds patronizing this tree but this lifer will just have to do. Moderation and compromising, remember?

We had our first Daurian Redstart in Malaysia a few years back. The bird, despite being the duller female, provided much excitement at the time. I know fully well how attractive the male can be and when I finally saw him in the flesh, he was even more stunning. My gut feeling turned out right and this location contributed the most species for my photographic efforts.   

The Fairy Mountain was one of the destinations I looked forward to for the trip. Based on my research and AI assistance, it should be the place that will make lugging more than two kilograms of photographic gear around during a regular tour worth the while. Our tour bus finally crossed into the boundaries of The Fairy Mountain National Forest Park after midday. The mist was unbelievable heavy which was something I did not expect to face at this hour. Everyone in the tour group was elated with this mesmerizing condition. I was devastated.

Luckily, I did not end up empty-handed. While on board one of the shuttle buses that operates within the park, I caught sight of a flock of Collared Crows resting on dead tree next to the access road. This lifer would have made a fine addition to my photographic efforts for the trip but instead it became one of the major disappointments in terms of bird photography. The Azure-winged Magpies, which I came across in an urban park within the city centre on the last day of our tour, was another heartbreaker. And that time, it was not due to being in a moving bus but Murphy’s Law. I decided to leave my gear in our hotel room thinking I could not possibly encounter anything during a city tour that warrant the use of my camera. A goddamn lifer proved me wrong.

Anyway, back to Fairy Mountain (I think Misty Mountain would be a more appropriate name). A few Oriental Magpies have adapted to surviving off scraps left behind by visitors to this tourist hotspot and judging from the huge crowd when I was there, these birds have it made. Despite the mist, the images turned out better than expected and the bold nature of the birds was a big help.

The main birding highlight of this trip took place on another mountain, Jinfosan. The open areas yielded a distant Long-tailed Shrike. As it is not uncommon in my country, this record shot was sufficient.

We then walked along a nature trail that reminded me of The Mossy Forest Eco Park in Cameron Highlands. As with most of the sites we visited, the scenery was fascinating. After capturing this photo, my wife excitedly signalled and told me that there were birds along the path in front of her and I rushed over.

Instead of finding the birds gone, which would be the usual case, the birds were still there. In fact, the flock appeared to be moving towards me. I knew they were Red-tailed Laughingthrushes and their beauty precedes them. The flock consisted of both adults and juveniles. Naturally, the young ones were much bolder. At times, I could have given them a pat on the head!

To be in such close proximities with these birds was an incredible experience. I find it hard to recall the last time I was given such privilege. The Red-tailed Laughingthrush is a fitting species to end my casual birding endeavour to China. Just like most of the attractions here, the bird was striking and definitely memory-making material.

A Manchurian for Christmas

 

It is common knowledge that our forests are under threat but the devastation does not end there. Wetland habitats suffer a similar fate. In my home state of Penang, I am running out of wetlands to visit. And for someone with a soft spot for water birds, it is utterly depressing. The marshlands at Batu Kawan would have been my saviour if it has not been slated for development in the near future. At the break dawn, my companions and I plodded along the soft laterite access road cutting through a construction site. It may not sound much like a birding trip but that is what one has to endure in order to reach the said wetlands. Sad but true...

I may not speak for everyone but the sight of a congregation of large water birds never ceases to amaze. Flock by flock of water birds arrive at this feeding ground from their roosts in the surrounding vicinity. For the record, this location probably has the highest density of Purple Herons and Grey Herons in Penang and the numbers are incredible. I opted to observe rather than photograph because that is where the true value lies and this image of a lone Grey Heron may not be able to fully convey the moment.

The advancement in digital cameras of late is undeniable but they do not come cheap. So, for the time being I still rely on pressing the shutter and pray for at least one frame to turn out decent. However, there is a limit to how much one can achieve through prayers especially for a flight shot in dim lighting like this taunting Cinnamon Bittern making its way to breakfast.

One has to be observant to pick out the small but adorable Long-toed Stint from all the blobs of mud, debris and vegetation present in the wetlands. The distance may have robbed me of some of the joy but the Long-toed Stints have their way to gain my affections.

A trio of drabber looking stints dashed across our field of view haphazardly and alighted on a distant sandbank. Our initial guess was spot on when they turned out to be Temminck’s Stints in the end. This species is an uncommon winter visitor to our land and more than capable to excite even the most seasoned birder.

My encounter with the rare Common Ringed Plover here last season left much to be desired. Naturally, all Little Ringed Plovers were scrutinized for a possible re-occurrence of the former but I could not attain the closure I seek.

The Black-winged Stilts graced the location in good numbers with their elegant presence. The new generation of birders and bird photographers may not be aware that this bird was once a rarity in Malaysia but I certainly do. Decades may have passed. Exhilaration may have been reduced. One of my all-time favourites, the bird remains.

They are conspicuous not only because of their contrasting colouration but vocal nature as well. More often than not, they drown out most other species that share their watery domain. This temporary sanctuary will host the Black-winged Stilts and the rest for at least one more season. I am no soothsayer but unless a miracle takes place, the demise of this locality is just a matter of time.

It is safe to say it is no longer unusual to record Little Cormorants in the northern half of the peninsular. A big flock resting together after a morning’s hunt is an impressive sight. One that I am still trying to get used to.

Garganeys, on the other hand, are unusual with sporadic winter records throughout the years. And to have four individuals together at a single spot close to home should be my early Christmas judging on how slow things have been for this year.

Apparently, the Lesser Whistling Ducks have had enough of the overwhelming stench and toxic at the marshland next to the Pulau Burung landfill and are now taking refuge here. I wish there was a way I could warn them not to get too comfortable because the good life they are now enjoying is not going to last.

There is a good reason behind the name of the Greater Painted-Snipe. The female bird (yes, female bird) is vibrantly coloured and stunning. There is also a reason why she seldom reveals her true beauty for evolution has made her particularly elusive.

Wetland habitats are not without their dangers. Raptors are always on the lookout for prey and today, a male Eastern Marsh Harrier was on the hunt. Harriers are generally uncommon at this location but this individual seemed to have decided on his wintering ground this season. His malicious presence will not be welcomed by other wildlife but it certainly added value to our excursion.

Executing a mid-flight scratch to get rid of an annoying itch…

The Zebra Dove is about bite-size for the Eastern Marsh Harrier and its tendency to perch in the open can be hazardous to its health.

The Long-tailed Shrike is predatory as well but on a smaller scale. This is one of the few places in Penang where this beautiful species resides and has been recorded regularly.

It is normally a shy bird despite occurring in scrub and open country habitats. Today, a pair was being more confiding than usual perhaps due to the approaching breeding season. Whatever the reason may be, I do not come across the Long-tailed Shrike often enough not be thrilled by their performance.

There was a significant change to the taxonomy of birds recently. More splits and renaming – as usual. Inevitably, I try my best to keep myself updated for Malaysian species. Among the changes, the Intermediate Egret is now called the Medium Egret which I cannot help but to chuckle when I first found out. I do not know how to put it but it just sounds odd. Will the Little Egret and Great Egret be renamed as to go with the flow?  Anyway here is the bird, with no regards that it is now probably the most joked-about bird wherever it occurs, looking all so poised at our second location of the day which is the Permatang Pauh paddy fields.

Searching for a little brown job in dense vegetation is not every one’s cup of tea. I will usually give it a pass but my companions convinced me otherwise. A lot of thought and strategy was put into the approach this time and we managed to persuade two Manchurian Reed-warblers to settle into a small clump of reeds. In fact, the smallest clump in the vicinity and just next to the access road. I could almost taste success when these globally vulnerable migrants put the human observers in their place and reminded them just how difficult reed-warblers can be if they choose to be.

When the vegetation finally gave way to a less obstructed view, it was the lighting’s turn to dampened our photographic efforts. Murphy's Law at work again.

However, birders can be exceedingly stubborn and determine especially with failure looming. An unexpected turn of luck eventually had the Manchurian Reed-warbler alighting on a relatively open perch with decent lighting. If this is not proof of the existence of a higher being, I do not know what is. As we were enjoying our moment of triumph, the reed-loving warblers gradually made their way out of sight but not out of memory. A fitting end to a rewarding outing and I am relieve there is no negative conclusion to this posting for a change. Perhaps, it is the magic of Christmas at work.

Speaking of which, MERRY CHRISTMAS & HAPPY NEW YEAR to everyone!