Great things sometimes come in small packages

This weekend’s birding plans were far from ordinary. It was not because of the locations but more because of the company. James, Hor Kee and I will be hosting a couple of distinguished birders from this region. Ding Li, a friend who hails from Singapore happens to be the co-author of 100 Best Bird Watching Sites in Southeast Asia (a book that I will be contributing the Penang chapter for the next revision) and writer of several papers on birds. He brought along Abdel who is an avid birder currently residing in Hong Kong. Anyway, the duo was keen to visit the grasslands of Chuping and the recent the Manchurian Reed-Warbler was their main target. The trip up to the tiny state of Perlis did not start off well. A 5-vehicle pile up along the North-South Highway held us back for at least half an hour and we arrived at the location much later than we had planned. After a tedious search, the Reed-Warbler offered us only a glimpse but Ding Li who is into call recordings, managed some relatively good recordings of this difficult skulker.

The number of raptors present were still less than desirable. Hopefully, it is not an indication of things to come. A dark morph Booted Eagle did not seem to think so and its presence was one of the highlights of our visit here.

Blue-tailed Bee-eaters are common winter visitors to Malaysia. It can be exceptionally bold at times and this individual showed no fear to our presence and continued with its routine while we obtain images of this aerial feeder. And the beautiful blue sky, typical of the Chuping landscape, provided the perfect backdrop.

The Indian Roller may not have the aerial agility of the bee-eater but it just as stunning a bird. On the west coast of Peninsular Malaysia, Chuping is the best place to observe and enjoy the Indian Roller. Naturally, this scarce bird had our attention for quite while.

During our last trip here, the Siberian Stonechats were just amazing. This time, they were in good numbers but photography required a lot more effort. It was a scorching day and when the sun was its zenith, it became almost unbearable.

After lunch, we decided to try for the Dusky Crag-Martin at the adjacent limestone hill of Bukit Keteri. We brought two more accomplished birders to prove that we were not mass hallucinating during our last visit. With more eyes, we managed to confirm not one but two martins present in the vicinity. Hor Kee even obtained a record shot to put all doubts away. This is his gallant effort of my latest lifer.

We headed towards Air Hitam Dalam next and it was to be our third and final destination of the day. The recent flood that devastated my home state of Penang made the site inaccessible for a few days after. We were not sure what to expect. The consequences of the flooding could have been dire. But in the end, our worries were uncalled for. There was enough magic left here in Air Hitam Dalam to get a few experienced local birders all excited. The Taiga Flycatcher is a rare migrant to our shores. I am fortunate to have seen this species in two other sites prior to this. Dusk was approaching and there was nothing I could do about the horrid lighting. But this little brown job that can be mistaken for the ever-abundant Asian Brown-Flycatcher, was the bird of the day for me.

It has been months since the last time I connected with the resident Spotted Wood-Owls of this swamp forest. With the fading light, one of the owls started to stir and caught our attention. The foliage that provided sanctuary for the owl was a major hindrance to my photographic attempts. There was not much time for us to rekindle either. A group of visitors was simply too vocal for the owl’s liking and the night bird retreated further into the forest. However it was a welcomed encounter and a fine way to wrap things up for our guests’ first day of birding in this part of Peninsular Malaysia.

The next day we found ourselves combing the forest surrounding Pedu Lake for more feathered denizens of northern Peninsular Malaysia. Due to illegal bird trades, leafbirds are declining throughout the country. I guess we can consider ourselves lucky that their stunning beauty and melodious song is not completely absent from here. This foraging Blue-winged Leafbird was unperturbed by our presence and carried on within close proximity to our position. It was a female and although it lacks some of the vibrancy of the male bird, she was still a sight to cherish.

A row of fruiting trees was a centre of bird activities – naturally. Bulbuls were the predominant species this time. The presence of two of the most attractive bulbuls made our time at the fruiting trees most rewarding. The Grey-bellied Bulbul is always a pleasure to observe and despite the harsh lighting, it was only right to spend some time appreciating its striking colouration.

That was until a small flock of Scaly-breasted Bulbuls decided to join in the feast. Then all eyes were on these sultry beauties. The foliage was dense and the lighting, less than desirable but we still tried our best to capture some images of this bulbul. Apparently, the Scaly-breasted Bulbul is not so common down south and that made the encounter rather exciting for our guests. As for me, no matter how many times I have seen this species, it will always have my undivided attention.

Everything was just swell as we enjoyed sunbirds, white-eyes, flycatchers and other avian splendours that were patronizing the fruiting trees. The thing about birding is that it has the capabilities to turn ordinary into extraordinary in a blink of eye. The Grey-and-buff Woodpecker is one of the smallest woodpeckers in Malaysia. What it lacks in size is made up with character, adorability and beauty. Due to its penchant for the top most part of the canopy and its minute size, good photographic opportunities are rare. To come across one in the mid-level of the forest is already a blessing in my book. To have one perched in the open for a prolonged period time is nothing short of a miracle. That was exactly what this male Grey-and-buff Woodpecker with his flaming red crest and all did.

The Grey-and-buff Woodpecker is not a rare bird but to be able to bask in its radiance is a privilege. This is the closest I have ever been to one and it is by far my best encounter with this species. This is something that only forest birding can offer. Unexpected moments that will have a lasting impression. This will definitely be part of my reflections of wings and inspiration in years to come.

Pedu Lake is rich in fish life and that in turn will attract predators that have an appetite for fish. The Lesser Fish-Eagle can occasionally be seen in this locality and as the name implies, fish is its staple diet. A distant individual taking advantage of the rising thermals did not go unnoticed.

Hours of birding in the humid rainforest will usually have you sweating buckets. This diminutive Tailless Lineblue seemed adamant of extracting all the dried sodium from my skin. Certainly beats having your blood extracted by mosquitoes.

After a hearty lunch, we swung by the mangroves of Sungai Batu. It took a little longer than usual but we did managed to capture the star bird of the locality – the Mangrove Pitta. A second bird was heard calling but as usual, the dominant bird would have none of it and the latter remained among the shadows of the swamp forest.

The Forest Wagtail was the final bird of the day and it was quite a fitting sent off for our guests. The past 2 days of birding had its downs but a few remarkable birds and the companionship I had certainly evened things out.

The beginning of the end?

It is that time of the year again for my annual excursions up north to the great grasslands of Chuping. The past few birding trips were excruciating slow for me due to bad luck and weather. I always tell myself bad days will only make you appreciate the good ones even more and that usually makes it a little easier on the soul. Anyway, Hor Kee and James were my companions for my first visit to Chuping this season and the landscapes here are breath taking as usual and weather today was very promising.

However, sceneries are never first priority. Feathered splendours like a male Red Collared-Dove is. Although this species is gradually spreading south, Chuping remains to be the main stronghold for these doves and their numbers here can be overwhelming at times. A small flock was foraging on a recently ploughed field just next to the access road and was given its due attention. One male in particular got the ball rolling for what was to be another rewarding day of birding at the northern tip of Peninsular Malaysia.

This is the best site in Malaysia to observe the Bronze-winged Jacana and paying homage to this beautiful and rare water bird is mandatory for every visit. Luck was on our side as one of them was foraging close to where we had positioned ourselves. The heat wave was a major hindrance to my photography efforts but the images obtained were much to my satisfactory in the end.

Revealing the deep chestnut colouration often concealed by the bronze wings...

Belting out a round of territorial calls to complete the performance.

Little Cormorants are a regular sight here but today, I only managed a shot of a flying bird.

Another regular is the graceful Black Drongo. This common winter visitor can also be found in good numbers throughout the locality. This species thrives in open country habitat and there is certainly plenty of that in Chuping.

Chuping is renowned for wintering raptors. However, the numbers recorded today was not up to expectations. It could be still too early in the season or due to some other reasons. I am keeping my fingers crossed it is the former. A female Pied Harrier resting out in the field was the only raptor photograph worth sharing this time.

Fortunately, the void left by the mighty raptors was filled by other smaller species that also seek refuge here. A simple stop to shoot a pair of Zebra Doves led to a memorable encounter - for me anyways. Call it good luck or divine intervention but had we not stop for these common doves (which we usually do not), we would have miss out on an adult and juvenile Little Bronze Cuckoo foraging among some low bushes. I have not seen this species for a number of years and my images of it are from my modest Digiscoping years. This time, I had them close and in good light and they appeared to be completely at ease with the presence of our vehicle. It will take some time for the youngster to obtain the striking markings of adulthood.

The adult male was a true stunner and naturally, received most of my undivided attention. The glossy upperparts glittered under the morning sun and the boldly marked underparts complemented his looks well. And I was relishing every second of this chance encounter.

We stopped at the spot again later in the morning and much to my delight, the adult was still there. I took a few more shots for good measure.

Any Eastern Yellow Wagtail encountered in Chuping deserves a second look as the Citrine Yellow is very similar looking. This will be my third season looking for the scarce and elusive winter visitor. I guess one can always hope for a miracle...

The same applies to Paddyfield Pipits. Dipping out on the Blyth’s Pipit last season continues to haunt my thoughts. Hopefully, I will have better luck and put that ghost to rest this season.

Although not uncommon in suitable habitats throughout the country, it is much easier to see the migratory Siberian Stonechat here in Chuping. Like most female birds, the Siberian Stonechat has drably coloured females. However, to ignore a confiding individual like she is just wrong.

The males are much more attractive and at times, can be a little of an exhibitionist. Today, one male outdid himself and provided me with one my best encounters with this species to date. Floating from perch to perch and occasionally wandered very close to our stationary vehicle.

My only qualm was the harsh lighting. But better hot and sunny than gloomy and wet.

Cattle Egrets have pretty much conquered all suitable habitats in Malaysia and it comes as no surprise to see their numbers booming here in the vast grasslands.

It was bad enough when they decided to replace most of the sugarcane plots with rubber estates a few years back. It was a devastating move to both birds and birder. In time, both have recovered slightly from the blow and life goes on. Just when I thought it could not get any worse, they have now started to build a small industrial park. This could very well spell the beginning of the end for this birding paradise. I do not know the full extent of this development project and I do not even dare to find out. For the past decade or so, Chuping has provided numerous first records for the country and countless remarkable birding excursions for birders far and wide. I just wish that for once a birding hotspot is left the fuck alone. Is that too much to ask?

We made a short visit to the adjacent limestone hills of Bukit Keteri for another attempt at Dusky Crag-Martins. I have been scanning limestone outcrops for as long as I could remember in the hopes to bag this scarce resident. I am no spring chicken in terms of birding years and today, I finally broke the duck. In fact, it was a lifer for the entire group. Among the dozens of House Swifts and a handful of Barn Swallows, a lone Dusky Crag-Martin was making rounds along the twin hills at breakneck speed. Mass hallucination is not unheard of in birding especially in the presence of a would-be lifer but the martin gave us ample opportunities to be sure that we were not hallucinating. My companions tried to capture the moment but I did not even bother. My gear stood no chance whatsoever in this situation. No, the Dusky Crag-Martin was a lifer I had to enjoy through my trusted bins only.

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 [CWM1]

The eagles have certainly landed...

The weather has improved slightly here around Penang state and a beautiful sunrise unfolded as we made our way along the elevated boardwalk of Air Hitam Dalam. This time, I had the company of a couple from Scotland and they have been birding for a very long time. We had barely broke a sweat when we came across our first bird of the day. It was a Greater Racket-tailed Drongo foraging noisily along the canopy level of the swamp forest. The rackets of this bird have always been the object of fascination for me but today, it was the bird’s hearty catch.

Moments later, the presence of a pair of Spotted Wood-owls stopped us at our tracks. However, the owls were restless and did not stay put for long. Daytime encounters with owls are always exciting. Even if brief glimpses were all that were to it. The owls, despite their size, can hide surprisingly well among the foliage and shadows of the tree crowns. Hide-and-seek is one game that you do not want to engage with them. On the other hand, another predatory bird of this swamp forest was a lot more obliging. The Crested Serpent-eagle is not new to any of us but it still received its share of admiration and affection.

The next destination was the expansive mudflats of neighbouring Bagan Belat. The tide was slightly higher than anticipated and inevitably, the number of waders present was less overwhelming. The Nordmann’s Greenshank is one of the most sought after wader species among my foreign guests. It comes as no surprise because it is an endangered species and the coastline here is one of its regular wintering grounds. It is also one good looking bird even in winter. Flocks of almost similar-looking Common Greenshanks were given extra attention but to no avail. And Penang continues to anxiously await the arrival of the first Nordmann’s Greenshank of the season (at the time of writing, a few had revealed themselves to Dave a few days after our visit).

From the coastline, we headed inland towards Permatang Pauh - the main paddy planting district of Penang. The electrical pylons that spans across one section of the paddy fields is the favourite haunt for wintering eagles. It did not take long to find one and it was a Greater Spotted Eagle. It was an exciting find but unfortunately, there was nothing much I could do about the distance of the encounter.

I was so preoccupied with the Greater Spotted Eagle that I did not notice a pair of White-bellied Sea-eagles on the very top of the same pylon until they were pointed to me by my guests – much to my embarrassment. Again the distance was just too great or this majestic pair would have made a very good capture.

Unlike the mighty raptors, one small migratory passerine performed admirably well for my camera and it was a female Siberian Stonechat. It is by no means a rare species but she is exotic enough to have my undivided attention.

Black-crowned Night-herons are not often seen here. Not in broad daylight anyway. This juvenile was hunting when our paths crossed and since it was obliging enough, we took some time to admire its presence.

The flocks of Grey-headed Lapwings are increasing in numbers - as expected. Their numbers may have grown but their courage remains the same – as expected too. Anyhow, the lighting was good today and I tried my luck at some distanced shots hoping that they will turn out good enough to be posted. And one of them did.

To see a Lesser Adjutant foraging in a paddy field in Peninsular Malaysia is nothing out of the ordinary especially in the paddy fields in the southernmost state of Johor. But this is the first time I have seen one in the paddy fields here in Penang. Hence, the inclusive of this dreadful shot to end this time’s post of our half day excursion. Thanks to the sunny weather, it was a memorable and rewarding trip as well.