A trail of teasing trogons

 

I found myself exploring the foothills of Gunung Bintang in the state of Kedah on Boxing Day this year. And the weather was surprisingly good with clear blue skies and plenty of sunshine. The vicinity was alive with the sounds of nature and as usual, the wilderness provides sanctuary for my wearied soul. The troops of Agile Gibbons present almost drowned out all the rest with their powerful territorial calls and for these shy primates that is often the only indication of their presence.

One particular call had my undivided attention. It is a series of mournful notes but owner of the call is anything but mournful. I do not come across the Red-naped Trogon all that often and this individual was not making it easy for me. The dense foliage of the canopy hid the bird well and the vocalization was the only aid I have to locating this stunning forest dweller. Quarter of an hour and a couple of leech bites later, the trogon shifted position and slight movement was all that was needed for its location to be revealed. It was a dreadful photographic attempt but the experience exciting nevertheless.

The trogons of this birding haven appear to have returned to the forest surrounding this access road. The movement control order by the government decreased human activities considerably here and could well be one of the main reasons why I found myself surrounded by these forest denizens today. As much as I hate to admit it, human interference regardless of any nature, will have an impact on the ecosystem. In our absence, Mother Nature thrives. Anyway, the Diard’s Trogon and Orange-breasted Trogon teased me with fleeting views from the cover of the forest. Even the commoner Scarlet-rumped Trogon was reluctant to reveal his true beauty today.

His duller mate was not any much better despite resting on a relatively open perch.

The two resident forest kingfishers were also up and about. While the Banded Kingfisher remained out of sight, the Rufous-collared Kingfisher provided a brief but mesmerizing encounter. She alighted at eye level but unfortunately in a gloomy part of the forest. Unlike most avian species, she is just as striking as her male counterpart. I could not recall the last time I came across a female of this species and this girl certainly brought some cheer after the frustrating time with the trogons.

A number of birdwaves swept past me as I slowly ascended the trail. Babblers, warblers, flycatchers, woodpeckers and sunbirds were the main participants of this natural phenomenon. Photographic attempts were futile as the birds were exceptionally active today. All except for a male Black-winged Flycatcher-Shrike that decided to take a short breather in the midst of all the chaos.

Fruiting trees are always a good spot for birds. A small fruiting next to the access road made me stop to have a better look. A pair of Finsch’s Bulbuls came for a short feed but they were the only signs of life at the tree for the entire duration I was there.

I did not give much thought to the resident Chestnut-naped Forktails that were darting about today as these birds do not appreciate human presence much. However, a juvenile decided to momentarily abandon its skittish nature and foraged relatively close to my position. This species has a tendency to hunt along isolated access roads and when out the in the open like this, one can truly appreciate the beauty of the Chestnut-naped Forktail even if it has yet to obtain full adult plumage.

Well, we are all familiar with the saying stop and smell the roses but you will not find any roses here in this hot and humid environment. I hope I am not getting sentimental with age but while waiting (in vain) for the forktail to show itself again, this yellow flower did catch my eye.

The Bushy-crested Hornbill is probably the avian world’s equivalent of the gibbons here at this site. It occurs in flocks and just like the primates, are vocal by nature. A flock was yelping away (yup, they do sound somewhat like puppies) from one of the taller trees and lucky for me, the foliage was sparse enough to make the shape of the hornbills. They were quite a distance away and the tree, strongly backlighted.

Years of birding has moulded me into a patient man and I waited for, hopefully, a change of fortune. My determination paid off when the flock, consisting of nine individuals, took flight and headed towards my direction. I also have been birding long enough to know that things rarely work out exactly how you hoped. When it comes to forest birding, everything comes down to luck and it certainly had some for this encounter.

My best effort of the flying Bushy-crested Hornbills was of this young male. He was the last one to make it across the valley and my modest photographic setup had a little more time to capture the moment. There is just something about hornbills in flight that make them so captivating – even if the species is mostly shades of brown.

I had to borrow my better half’s ride for my birding adventure this time as the battery of my old girl died on me the day before. When it comes to photography, birds and other wildlife naturally has precedence over everything else. But vehicles are one of my few other passions in life and you will find a number of photographs of this nature in my digital archive. And this Kai Concept crossover wrapped things up for the day.

The bold and the beautiful

It has been a while since I last wandered into the wild interiors of Pedu Lake in Kedah state and my second day of birding with Bob gave me the opportunity to do so. The lone access road that cuts through the forest here is isolated and can spring a surprise or two – especially at this hour. A distant gamebird foraging along the edge of the road got our pulses racing. But when it finally revealed itself, there was no mistaking its identity. Naturally, I was hoping for it to be one of the uncommon species but I have be contented with this common but handsome male Red Junglefowl for this time.

Brownish flycatchers can be tricky to identify but the majority of them usually turned out to be Asian Brown Flycatchers. After all it is the commonest flycatcher despite being only winter visitors. This one had our attention until we were certain of its identity and I obtained yet another image of the Asian Brown Flycatcher for my digital archive.

It did not take long for the temperature to soar and from the look of things, it was going to be another sweltering day. The condition now was perfect for a soaring raptor and true enough, an Oriental Honey-Buzzard glided into view.

The magic of birding in the forest, despite all the challenges, is that you can never expect what you might come across. A red trogon was perched significantly low and one species naturally came to mind – the elusive Cinnamon-rumped Trogon. But I cannot identify a bird based on habits alone. The trogon was exceptionally confiding and we patiently waited for him to reveal his rump in order to eliminate the possibility of the much commoner Scarlet-rumped Trogon.

I do not have enough field experience to confidently identify a Cinnamon-rumped Trogon from the front. Due to the close proximity, my images of the trogon were commendable. A quick check with my mates online left no room for doubts and it was a Scarlet-rumped Trogon. Posterior view was not required. Bob was exhilarated with the find but I could not share his joy. And I am not proud of it.

Our next destination of the day was another forest site and it was the Bukit Wang Forest Reserve. This migratory season, a couple of uncommon flycatchers have been performing well. The male Chinese Blue Flycatcher continued to awe birders from his shadowy domain. Apart from the lighting, his performance was flawless.

Today, the Green-backed Flycatcher was just amazing. This is the closest I have ever been to this uncommon migrant and needless to say, the encounter left me breathless.

Just when I thought nothing could better that, the Short-tailed Babbler refused to be outdone. I have a soft spot for this adorable bird despite its dull colouration. Looks can be deceiving and the Short-tailed Babbler can be quite feisty at times and its behaviour is the thing that earn my affections.

Like the flycatcher, it was literally fearless today. For a bird of the forest undergrowth, open and intimate views like these do not come often and spending time at a stakeout is probably the only way where you can have that opportunity.

How can you not love a face like this?

One of the reasons why this site is such an alluring site is because it is one of the few places where you have a chance to encounter the beautiful Chestnut-necklaced Partridge. I have my fair share of encounters with this game bird but to lay eyes on one moving about the forest floor still does it for me.

The last destination of the tour was the mangroves of Sungai Batu. We came across another confiding babbler and the Abbott’s Babblers maintained our momentum with this family of birds.

When it comes to common birds, very few species can beat the Yellow-vented Bulbul here in Malaysia. However, we cannot hold that against the bird and an occasional recognition of its presence is only right.

However, for the striking Forest Wagtail, its presence will always receive my recognition…

The Mangrove Pitta again proved difficult and despite all my efforts, refuse to reveal itself from the depths of the mangrove forest. For the second time today, the feeling of disappointment crept in. A confiding male Mangrove Blue Flycatcher eased the episode with the pitta and his radiant blue plumage and charm was good enough to wrap things up for the day.

Mumbo jumbo...

I finally found myself out birding again and this time, I hosted a couple of Singaporean birders. We arrived at the lush evergreen forest of Bukit Wang in the state of Kedah at the break of dawn. Lighting was still relatively poor but the drumming of the resident White-bellied Woodpecker was a great way to start off the tour. The forests of Peninsular Malaysia are teeming with fascinating bird species. That is a known fact. But to see them well, often takes as much luck as anything else. The Chestnut-breasted Malkoha is a fine example. Big and beautiful, this non-parasitic cuckoo can be frustratingly difficult at times. And my best photographic effort of the encounter says it all.

The Chinese Blue Flycatchers that have been showing well at this location of late provided only glimpses despite all my efforts. The Green-backed Flycatcher is another uncommon migrant and this lone male certainly performed much better. Hawking well away from the access road, a record shot was all I could muster but there are no complaints from me.

The distinct call of the Orange-breasted Trogon had me combing every inch of the spot where the bird was vocalizing. It is not a small bird nor is it dully coloured. But when a forest bird is determined to hide from you, there is nothing you can do about it. A stroke of good luck had the bird shift and alighted on an exposed perch and despite the less than ideal photographic opportunity, it was still a treasured encounter.

The sight of a Crested Goshawk may not evoked much of a reaction from birders in the southern half of the peninsular. Up here in the north, this striking raptor is not as common as I would like it to be. And a distant individual performing its courtship display certainly had my attention.

The mangroves of Sungai Batu was rather uneventful. Reports have been coming in of the return of the Mangrove Pitta, which has been missing for months. Unfortunately, I failed to locate the star bird and we had to settle for the delightful antics of the Abbott’s Babbler.

This migratory season brought in what should be the biggest number of Asian Openbills ever. Huge flocks on migration was seen at several localities throughout the peninsular. The numbers were so overwhelming that they darkened the skies. To the birding community, these were true spectacles of nature. Yet, there are people who frown upon these migrating flocks and calling them bad omens associated with natural disasters like landslides. When a similar view was posted in an established Facebook birding group, it definitely struck a nerve. Being superstitious is one thing but this is coming from a member of a birding group. And this is not even the first time this phenomenon has happened. A similar “invasion” took place a few years back only not quite in this magnitude.  At the time of writing these gaping, bi-coloured angels of death have journeyed all the way to Singapore. God have mercy on his poor, frightened soul.

Naturally, we encountered Asian Openbills at several places throughout the day and I do not recall recording this species before at some of the said places. One particular flock numbering about 100 birds was resting and foraging at a flooded patch of paddy field just next to the road and houses in Kedah state. The presence of the storks and birders certainly had the attention of the locals. The most notable thing about this flock was its confiding nature and I suspect the storks could be recent arrivals.

All the way from northern Kedah to mainland Penang, almost every stretch of paddy fields had Asian Openbills in them. I know these storks are nothing new but they still do it for me after all these years. Today’s birding excursion was slightly below expectations. But the performance of a few interesting species, the enjoyable companionship, being out in the field again and the invasion of the Openbills still made it a memorable one in the end.

Unforgettable - Part 1

I was really looking forward to my latest birding adventure as it would take me to one of the best lowland forest sites in Peninsular Malaysia – good old Taman Negara. Just a few days before the tour, it dawned on me. The dates coincided with Malaysia Day and that made the weekend a long one. I planned to have a stopover at Cameron Highlands for a night with my Sabahan guest, Kuan, before going over to the other side of the peninsular. And to be brutally honest, this highland resort is the last place to be during long weekends. As expected, we were greeted by horrendous traffic upon our arrival and particularly everywhere was crowded. Even the only birding spot left on Cameron Highlands, the narrow road up Gunung Brinchang, had its share of visitors. However, the human congestion and engulfing mist could not deny my guest of two outstanding lifers in the form of a Malayan Whistling-Thrush and Rufous-vented Niltava. Both species were equally exciting to me as they are montane specialities but the conditions made it utterly meaningless for my gear to attempt any photography.

We left Cameron Highlands and all the festivities behind when we made our way to the wild interiors of Pahang state. Taman Negara Sungai Relau was to be our hunting ground for the next few days and it has been 3 years since I last wandered into this wildlife sanctuary in search of feathered denizens. I was well aware of the ongoing construction works for a new canopy walk in the park and I can only hope it will not effect the birding too much. Certain parts of Malaysia has been under siege this past week with the return of the hazardous haze – the worst in 4 years. Fortunately, it was still relatively clear here.

The monumental sign at the entrance has been refurbished with a simpler one. There is room for improvement but I guess it will do given the isolation of this locality. This is the consequence of my years in the advertising and signage industry. It is in my blood and I cannot help but to take an interest in this manmade structure.

For the rest of Taman Negara Sungai Relau, nothing much has changed - lush vegetation, wild environment and captivating views. For that I am most grateful.

Oriental Magpie-Robins continue to do well here under the protection of the national park and from the look of things, it will be another successful nesting season. In fact, it was breeding season for quite a number of other species as well.

Ayuwat’s last visit here yielded a lone Slender-billed Crow that was mixing around with Large-billed Crows at the entrance to the park. It is a species that I have not encountered for many years. Naturally, all crows seen within the compound of the entry point were given extra attention. My efforts were not rewarded in the end as I do not possess the same good fortune as my Thai compatriot. On the other hand, my guest enjoyed our time scrutinizing the Large-billed Crows. For him, the Slender-billed Crow is the commoner one in East Malaysia.

In the forest proper, Ayuwat found yet another gem and it was the elusive Cinnamon-rumped Trogon. And again, it is another species I yearn to reconnect with. Unfortunately, the only trogon we managed to observe for this trip was a male Diard’s Trogon. Forest bird photography is often challenging and it took considerable time and effort to obtain this shot.

Have I ever mentioned that patience is a virtue for birding in the forest? Well, it certainly is. And so is determination. However when all the elements are against you, those virtues don’t do squat. Like this female Green Broadbill making an appearance at first light.

The Yellow-bellied Bulbul was a regular feature during my last visit. This time, there was only one brief encounter. Come to think of it, bulbuls were rather elusive – however unbelievable that may sound.

The only bulbul that I had a reasonably good encounter with was the Grey-cheeked Bulbul. The colouration of this individual lacked its usual radiance and I assumed it is a young bird.

Apart from a distant Crested Goshawk, there were no other photographic opportunities with raptors. I have to admit that this trip produced less photos than I had expected and I hope it is just me getting more demanding with age and not the fact that even mighty Taman Negara is starting to deteriorate just like any other birding site.

I was happy just to be able to locate this Yellow-crowned Barbet shouting its head off from a lofty perch late one evening. Barbets usually conceal themselves well among the foliage of tall trees but we can sometimes surprise ourselves with what we can achieve when we really put our heart into it. The ache from straining our necks will heal itself eventually...

Even from that distance, the barbet received a fair share of attention from a couple of visiting birders. For Kuan, this is only his second sighting and obtaining a record was never an option.

Taman Negara Sungai Relau is not only home to the birds. Mammals roam the forest here with very little threat from humans. Our encounters with Wild Boars and a Yellow-throated Marten left us with nothing but memories. A Prevost’s Squirrel using the electrical cables to move about the edge of the park made sure we did not end up empty handed. Thank goodness for that because this species is one of the most beautiful mammals found here in the park.

We also crossed paths with Smooth Otters on a few occasions. The thought of Hairy-nosed Otters did cross my mind since we are in this rare mammal’s neck of the woods. A quick check with Goggle put all uncertainties to rest. Anyway, the encounters were still exciting despite the common stature of the Smooth Otter.

It was good to see the herd of captive released Bantengs still surviving here in the park. The male looked as intimating as ever. Sporting a fresh wound on his shoulder only enhanced the look.

For this trip to Taman Negara, the main targets for my guest were two species of pittas. To increase our chances with these shy jewels of the jungle, a considerable amount of time was spent in hides. How we faired with these beautiful but shy terrestrial birds will be covered in my next blog posting.