The hotter, the better...

 

During our journey to Kaeng Krachang National Park (KKCNP), we stopped by what appeared to be a boutique café just off the main road. Arjin proceeded to lead us to the back of the establishment and entered what must be the fanciest hide I have ever seen.

It came complete with electrical sockets and even Wi-Fi. It appears the owner has found another means to support his business and I think having a permanent hide in this bird-rich area is a splendid idea.

There was a watering hole in front of the hide and almost immediately, we got acquainted with one of its regular patrons – the striking Black-crested Bulbul. The lighting was challenging and the pockets of sunlight compounded the situation. But there was no denying the beauty of this relatively common species.

The bulbuls came to drink and even bathe at the watering hole. In my earlier post, I mentioned that heat will be in our favour during our tour and now, I understood why. All the hides near the KKCNP function the in same manner with water as the enticement. And when the weather is hot like this, you got it made.

The next species to appear was a Malaysian Pied-Fantail. My attention towards this all-too-familiar species did not take long to be distracted. I did not travel more than one thousand kilometers to photograph a bird I can regularly see in my own neighbourhood and that is the bitter truth.

The common Abbott’s Babbler would also have to do something extraordinary to take up more space than this in my post.

Announcing their arrival with harsh and loud notes were the Streak-eared Bulbuls. They are probably the commonest bulbul species here in central Thailand and we recorded them quite frequently throughout the tour.

In Peninsular Malaysia, the Streak-eared Bulbul is restricted to the northern end and I have my fair share of encounters. Regardless, it was nice to observe this plain-looking species up close and personal. There is always beauty in simplicity.

A lifer is a lifer even if it lacks aesthetic appeal. That is so true in the case of the Brown-cheeked Fulvetta. Being a typical babbler, I do not think that it will be easy obtain a shot like this without the aid of a hide and a watering hole. As I was busy documenting this new bird, something else arrived and immediately captured my undivided attention.

I have seen images of Racket-tailed Treepies taken from a hide like this on social media and they looked amazing. And now, here I am experiencing it for myself and I was definitely not disappointed. From the time the first bird popped into view, my finger hardly lifted from the shutter button. For years, I have tried in vain to capture the Racket-tailed Treepie back home in Malaysia. The pale blue eyes, unique tail and greenish-sheened plumage held me in a trance and I was lost in the moment. The treepies were truly captivating despite their common status here. People say the grass is always greener on the other side. Well, if that green is in the form of a bird that is one of my targets of the trip, then that saying is so very true.

Being cooped up in a hide like this, the heat would have been unbearable if not for the electrical fans available. I did mention that it was a fancy hide, right? The watering hole must be a true relief for the birds here. And the Racket-tailed Treepies certainly indulged themselves with this manmade blessing.

Another thing that I adore about these birds is their behaviour. They seemed to have a rascality side to their character that would occasionally reveal itself.

A stunning male Black-naped Monarch also made an appearance. I seldom have opportunities like these to capture this forest denizen. And this particular vine overhanging the watering hole has complimented quite a number of images captured during our time in this hide. His vivid colouration added splendour to the gloomy surroundings of the forest.

Not every species that visited the hide was obliging. This male Indochinese Blue Flycatcher came for a quick dip and disappeared back into his lush domain.

And this sceptical Greater Racket-tailed Drongo was adamant that all this was too good to be true and kept its distance.

Once available light started to fade, we concluded our visit to the hide at Cafe De Camp and made our way to our accommodations for the next few days – the renowned Samarn Bird Camp.

The main building was fully booked by big group of European birders (Thailand is truly a hotspot for visiting birders) and we had to settle for the adjacent chalets which are commendable as well. And I rather enjoyed the seclusion because we were the only guests here.

In case you are wondering, this is what we rolled in throughout our Thai adventure. It was certainly a practical mode of transport especially on some of rugged terrains of this country.

There are a lot of ways one can celebrate after successful birding excursions. Since I am a reformed smoker, a victory cigar is out of the question. But in this sweltering weather, a local beer will do just fine.

As our group waited for dinner time, I decided to explore the vicinity to kill time. The first bird to greet me was an Ashy Woodswallow on the hunt from the overhead electrical cables. Judging from its success rate, I would say it is enjoying the good life here.

A Streak-eared Bulbul feeding on striking orange fruits of a roadside tree immediately caught my eye. The vibrant surroundings contrasting with the dull colours of the bird was added value to the photograph obtained.

Hornbills, even the small ones, are loud and obtrusive. And an Oriental Pied Hornbill moving about the edge of the forest was impossible to go unnoticed. Obtaining unobstructed images was another matter unfortunately.

On the other end of the audio spectrum, my ears picked out the beautiful repertoire of musical notes belonging to the White-rumped Shama. And soon, my eyes caught sight of the alluring songster as well.

Dusk soon crept in and a pair of Red Junglefowls retreated back into the forest to roost. As I prepared myself for dinner, anticipation of what is to come tomorrow in KKCNP naturally filled my thoughts. You can find out the outcome of our visit to one of the best birding locations in the region in my next post.

The checklist of birds recorded at the Cafe  De Camp hide: https://ebird.org/checklist/S307845177

It is good to be back

 

My iron steed finally got to stretch her legs with her first interstate journey in more than two years. Almost all COVID-19 restrictions in the country have been lifted this month and hopefully, life will return to be what it used to be. As for me, it is back to the wilds of northern Peninsular Malaysia to make up for all the lost birding time.

Although not much has changed here at the Sungai Batu mangroves, there was one significant difference. The resident Mangrove Pittas, as reported by my fellow birders, have vanished deeper into their swampy domains. This remarkable animal is the star bird of this location and their absence is excruciating difficult to accept. On the other hand, the Mangrove Blue Flycatchers still serenade the vicinity with their beauty and song.

The boisterous Abbott’s Babblers were as prominent as before at the stakeout. The lighting condition was unpredictable today. Passing clouds blocked out the sun intermittently. And I occasionally struggled with my photographic efforts despite the close proximity of the birds.

Rapid movement is one of the main causes for this complication. The Malaysian Pied-Fantail with its signature erratic movements, truly tested my modest setup. A lucky shot during one of the few rare moments when the bird was still provided some extra material for this blog post.

Just because you are out in open spaces does not mean photographing wild birds will be a walk in the park. There will be times when your subject simply refuses to cooperate despite the ideal shooting conditions. Anyway, there is no mistaking a Green-billed Malkoha at this range. And life, goes on.

The resident Crested Serpent-Eagle exhibited its full majesty from the edge of the swamp forest. And this time, it was the distance that prevented better images to be obtained.

Barbets are undeniably vocal and this trait is present in every species including the small and adorable Coppersmith Barbet. The name itself derives from the persistent single note territorial call of the species which is not unlike the sound of a coppersmith at work. I traced the call to a tiny speck at the very top of a dead tree which is typical of the species.

It is not an uncommon bird occurring even in residential areas but good photographic opportunities are hard to come by. That is a shame for the Coppersmith Barbet is a cracking bird. From its lofty perch, it continued to proclaim its territory despite my presence and the encounter turned out to be the highlight of the trip.

The Blue-throated Bee-eaters are back for the summer replacing the wintering Blue-tailed Bee-eaters. Just as spectacular or perhaps even more, a moment is taken to appreciate their return. The electrical cables here certainly make good vantage points for the Blue-throated Bee-eater to launch its aerial assaults.

It is the breeding season for most birds now and the Baya Weaver colonies were buzzing with activities. The males are busy building their astonishing nests and this labour of love is anything but easy. As for the females, life is easy for time being as they linger about waiting to be wooed.

I concluded my feeble Global Big Day effort for this year around mid morning. Other commitments in life seemed to have increased of late. Either that or age have somewhat altered my priorities. But my passion for birding still burns especially when there are birds like the Black-winged Kite to fuel the flames. This poised and efficient hunter wrapped things for the day by resting in full view on an electrical pole along the access road leading out of the site.

A lily-trotting rarity

 

I have not been out birding as often as I used to but reports of a pair of Bronze-winged Jacanas at the marshlands of Batu Kawan awoken something in me that has been dormant for too long. It was just a matter of time before I made my way to seek out this scarce resident. Unlike in neighbouring Thailand, only a couple of sites in the northern state of Perlis is where this species has been recorded with any regularity in recent years.

It was a gloomy morning and with no signs of the jacanas upon arrival, the atmosphere was less than cheerful for my company and other like-minded birders. A White-browed Crake almost had us fooled when it caused some movement among the floating vegetation. But a Bronze-winged Jacana is just too stunning to be mistaken for anything else.

Migratory Reed-Warblers, as the name implies, find refuge here in the reeds as well. However, they can hide remarkably well if they want to. Today, only the Black-browed Reed-Warbler managed to find its way into my memory card.

When the celebrity birds finally revealed themselves, the joy was short-lived. Perhaps the presence of too many humans did not go well with the Bronze-winged Jacanas and they kept a safe distance throughout our observation. The poor lighting condition only compounded my dismay. Emotions aside, there is no denying the significance of this first state record. Enjoying the true resplendence of this lily trotter will just have to wait another day.

The pair was showing signs of breeding and we were even given a short courtship display. Inevitably, throng of bird photographers came for these beautiful water birds and some were overly enthusiastic and creative in their quest.  Shortly after our visit, Malaysia came under lockdown again due to the pandemic. I guess it was a blessing in disguise as the stricter movement control order gave the Bronze-winged Jacanas a chance to raise a family in peace. At the time of writing, the chicks have long fledged despite all the disturbances the nesting pair had to endure initially.

Without any indications of improvement shots for Bronze-winged Jacanas, I started to give the other species present their due attention. Unfortunately, there were not many around. A lone Asian Openbill was close enough for a record shot but not close enough to evoke anything else.

My best effort today should be of this adult Purple Heron resting all so elegantly among the reeds. It remained unperturbed by my presence and on a trip where good images are hard to come by, this common but striking heron provided the magic.

A good number was present in the vicinity today including juveniles pointing to a successful nesting season. Penang, my home state, is one of the busiest in the country. It is constantly being developed and sometimes at an alarming rate. Call me a pessimist but I can see no happily ever after for the colonies of Purple Herons here. It is just a matter of time before development displaces this wildlife refuge.

The absence of some of the usual water birds today was disheartening and the walk along the access road was long and tedious. A Malayan Pied-Fantail literally stopped me at my tracks when it suddenly alighted on the road not far from me. It was not exactly in pristine condition. Probably had a rough day so far as well but it did well enough to brighten up the day.

Chestnut Munias are the commonest munia species here and a small flock foraging along the edge of the reeds had my undivided attention. Like the Fantail, they were confiding and provided some cheer before the rains concluded the trip.

Three months have past since that gloomy morning with the Bronze-winged Jacanas. Due to the increased severity of the coronavirus in the country, it was my last birding excursion. It is a dark time now and life is shrouded with uncertainties. However, I always believe nothing lasts forever. Not even a global pandemic. To wrap things up for this time is not an image but rather, a cliché quote by Friedrich Nietzsche - that which does not kill us makes us stronger.