Quest for the Holy Grail

 

At the break of dawn on the second day of our tour, we were enjoying a simple breakfast and a glorious sunrise at the vast expense of salt ponds in the Khok Kham conservation area. And what can be found in such a habitat you may ask. Allow me to enlighten you. This is the wintering ground for a remarkable and rare little wader known as the Spoon-billed Sandpiper or more affectionately called the Spoonie.

Birds leaving roosting sites to forage in first light can be breath-taking. And it is no different here. I was especially drawn to the flocks of Painted Storks making their way towards the coast. There is no denying I have a soft spot for large water birds. Even more so if they are uncommon to me.

When there was finally enough light to begin our exploration of this important bird area, we carefully walked into the salt farm along the bunds. Flocks of waders that started to congregate in the shallow ponds were an indication of things to come and I could hardly contain the excitement building inside of me.

Now finding a Spoonie among the thousands of other peeps was not going to be easy. But we had help. A local guide that goes by the name of Tee weaved his magic scope and after about thirty minutes, we were staring at the unique bill of this critically endangered species.

In order to obtain any decent images, we had to rely on our field craft to reduce the distance. Here is Tee giving us some pointers on how not to be lumbering visiting birders and spook the subject away...

The observation did not last as long as I would have wanted when the entire flock of waders in that pond took flight and vanished. To be honest, I was still elated with this encounter as it was the closest and longest I have ever been with a Spoonie.

With the target in the bag, we began to open up to the other species that find sanctuary here. I do not encounter the Black-bellied Plover quite often and a lone individual resting along the outer edge of one the ponds was a welcomed sight.

A wary Pacific Golden-Plover did not provide any opportunity for an improvement shot.

I am a simple man and I tend to keep things simple in my life. Thus, I miss the days when Lesser Sand-plovers have not undergone the split. Having said that, here are some images of what should be Tibetan Sand-Plovers.

The Khok Kham conservation would be a good place to scan through the hundreds of confiding Sand-Plovers present here for the almost identical, Thailand’s first Siberian Sand-Plover but that task would be above my ‘bird’ grade.

The Curlew Sandpipers are rather confiding today as well. I took a keen interest in these common migrants for any stumpy-looking individuals or even better, have blackish bellies for the possibility of the rarer Dunlin. From this blog post, I am sure you know how it worked out.

Black-winged Stilts, especially the male bird, is the definition of elegance in the wader world.

The Marsh Sandpiper is another wader that oozes with poise and grace.

Here is a Pond-Heron in non-breeding plumage doing what Pond-Herons do. Next please...

The scenery at the salt ponds is actually quite lovely. Naturally, it took a while for me to realize that. Once I am in full birding mode, everything else becomes secondary.

We then sat down along a bund to take a breather and recuperate from the heat.  I always emphasize that successful birding is very much luck as well. A flock of waders suddenly alighted in the pond right in front of us and our man Tee triumphantly alerted us from a distance. I could hardly believe it when my eyes picked up the now-familiar jizz of a Spoon-billed Sandpiper. Point most certainly proven...

I could not be sure if this second bird is a different individual but it was a lot more confiding. I think we managed to crawl and slide our way to as close as possible without overstepping our boundaries.

The superstar appeared relax and was constantly feeding which at times, made it difficult to obtain images without the bill submerged in water.

Please forgive me if this post contains a high number of Spoon-billed Sandpiper images. It is not a new bird to me. In all my years of birding, I have recorded it twice before. But nothing like this. This is heaven-sent for a water bird lover like me and I took full advantage of what I have been given. The Spoon-billed Sandpiper is often considered the holy grail of wader watching in this part of the world. After this prolonged and intimate encounter, I can see why. It was a true privilege indeed.

The radiating tropical sun on our backs and a confiding Spoonie in front of our lenses. It does not get any better than this.

Once I have obtained more than enough images, I was able to let myself occasionally swap the camera with the binos and made this incredible encounter complete. And here is one final image of the Spoon-billed Sandpiper for good measure.

When the exhilaration of the Spoonie subsided, I started to take notice of the other waders present in the same pond. And a mixed flock of Great and Red Knots resting nearby was hard to ignore now.

The problem with roosting or resting waders is that you sometimes cannot isolate a single bird out for photography. For the knots, despite all my best efforts, I could only obtain images of a Great Knot alone.

Smaller peeps require some scrutiny to ascertain their identities. Red-necked Stints, due to their similarities to a Spoon-billed Sandpiper, provided some suspense on this beautiful, sunny morning. This image depicts the two species almost side to side. Hide the bill and most mortals would be in trouble.

Broad-billed Sandpipers sport distinct facial markings that make them slightly easier to identify. And they performed well for our photographic efforts. This wader site provided an incredible morning of memorable experiences and that is something I have been missing in recent years. It is sad but there are simply no wader sites left in my home state that can even come close.

For those unfortunate souls who dipped out on the Spoonie, there is a larger-than-life statue of the bird at the visitor centre that could perhaps provide some solace.

And from here, we took a long drive into the wild interiors of central Thailand. Kaeng Krachang National Park is the largest national park in the country and it was the next destination in out itinerary. Will our lucky streak continue? The answer to that will be in my next post.

Checklist of the birds recorded at Khok Kham: https://ebird.org/checklist/S307844600

Pied lifers...

 

Birders share a common passion which is of course the birds. However, everyone has their own preferences and tastes. For me, it has always been water birds. I find it difficult to explain how a dull water bird is able to complete with a dazzling forest bird but that is how I am built. Anyway, not all water birds are boring. Some are unique and striking like the Pied Avocet. Even before the first Malaysian record was discovered a few years back in Borneo, it has been one of my dream birds. When Peninsular Malaysia’s first Pied Avocet popped up in Batu Kawan, my home state was back in the limelight again.

I managed to squeeze out thirty minutes on the eve of Chinese New Year to tick this mega lifer but a second trip was inevitable because a few seconds of watching this elegant wader in flight left much to be desired. For my second attempt, I had the luxury of time and was greeted by the ever-conspicuous flocks of Black-winged Stilts. It did not take long to locate the distinguished guest but the early morning light and distance was far from ideal for photography.

The Pied Avocet appeared to have settled in well at this wintering ground. It sported a plumage colouration that lack the intensity of a typical adult bird and I can only assume it is a youngster. The lighting gradually improved but unfortunately, not the distance. However, it did not deter me from relishing this encounter. It is a remarkable bird despite its common status elsewhere in the world. And the record shots obtained today will just have to do.

Feeding alongside the Pied Avocet was another rarity but unlike the former, the Pied Stilt is gradually becoming commoner.

I have had relatively few encounters with this species and this individual was given its due attention despite the presence of a much rarer bird.

Sounds unbelievable but there is a third rarity in the vicinity. The Common Ringed Plover is a rare migrant to our shores but caution is needed to distinguish it from the commoner Little Ringed Plover which were present in good numbers. When I finally had the target in my binoculars, both bird and birder were flushed by an over-zealous lorry driver. And there are still those who find it hard to understand why I am not much of a people person. This birding hotspot is slated for development and we actually have to go through an active construction site to reach the locality. Anyway, here is an image of a Little Ringed Plover probably thinking serve me right for ignoring it in the first place.

The Pied Avocet remained in view throughout my time here but not once reducing the distance between us. And I started paying attention to the other commoner birds that were present like this Wood Sandpiper before calling it a day.

Up in the north western tip of Peninsular Malaysia, there is yet another rare water bird waiting to be added into my Malaysian life list. The Eurasian Coot was discovered last year around Christmas and like the Pied Avocet, has found Malaysian hospitality very accommodating. Exactly one week after my Pied Avocet chapter, I found myself at the agricultural lands of Chuping scanning the aquatic vegetation of a big pond for any signs of my would-be lifer. I have recorded the Eurasian Coot before elsewhere in Asia where it is common but nothing is comparable to home soil experience.

It has been showing relatively well since its discovery. I tried to convince myself there should not be any complications and the chances of dipping out is low. But one thing I have learned from my years of birding is never to count your lifers before they are twitched. I searched this pond and the other two adjacent ones as well and all I could find were Eurasian Moorhens and Little Grebes. I guess this pair of Little Grebes was just as surprised as I was that I took the time to capture this mediocre image instead of continuing my search for the Eurasian Coot.

Shortly after, what appeared to be a Eurasian Moorhen with a pale frontal shield smugly swam into view and my life list gets another nudge in the right direction.

Unfortunately, distance again prevented me from obtaining any improvement shots despite the star bird showing long and well for the birder in me.

Chuping is now a pale shadow of its former self. It could be due to a number of reasons but I can bet my bottom dollar it is all caused by humans. A female Pied Harrier floating above the fields was a solemn reminder of the good old days. Another thing birding has taught me is to enjoy whatever it is while it lasts. Sad to say, I have now grown numb to losing good birding locations.

Having said that, this locality remains to be one of the best places to see the beautiful male Red Collared Dove and it has been quite a long time since my last encounter. There will be no reason for this species to stop thriving here as it can readily adapt to living alongside man.

Another species that will not be affected by all the human activities is the migratory Blue-tailed Bee-eater. It is common in open country habitat throughout the length of the peninsular and it is no different here in the vast open landscape of Chuping.

It has been an exhilarating couple of weeks for me and hopefully all this will get me back into the field more frequently. As a conclusion to this post, here is an image of my new ride taken at the Coot Pond and my maiden interstate travel with this beast of a bike was quite an experience as well. I guess motorcycles and the sense of freedom and thrill they provide are a close second to my birding adventures.