Call of the wild

 

EarthLodge is one of the most remote birding spots in Peninsular Malaysia. It is located along the Muda River deep in the wild interiors of Kedah state and certainly a haven for both wildlife and wildlife enthusiasts. It was a “working” holiday for me because I have been commissioned by the founder of the establishment, Hymeir, to guide a French couple. Although being a bird guide never feels like work to me. The only access is by boat; electricity is by a generator that runs for the first half of the night and there is not much use of your smart phones here except for capturing memories of the trip. That is all part of the charms of Earth Lodge. As we disembarked onto the muddy banks upon arrival, the sounds of the forest greeted us to our home for the next few days.

The accommodations are reasonably comfortable and I have no complains about the food provided either. My priorities have always simple and the deciding factor for every location I that visit lies in how good is the birding.

We had excursions by boat along the Muda River on a daily basis because that is the only way to obtain a few of the main targets that included the mighty Asian Elephant and during this time of the year, the migratory Plain-pouched Hornbills.

The tusker is the mascot of Earth Lodge and since we are dealing with wildlife here, nothing is guaranteed. And unfortunately, the closest we came to these giants of the forest were their tracks and dung.

Thankfully, we did not miss out on the Plain-pouched Hornbills. Although not really in the numbers we were hoping for but a traveling flock set against the lush landscape of the locality is quite breath-taking.

We recorded every species of hornbills that occur in Malaysia during our stay here except for the Bushy-crested Hornbill. Being the commonest species, it came as no surprise that the Oriental Pied-Hornbill was the only other hornbill that I managed to capture. Bird photography in Ulu Muda (the general area where Earth Lodge is located) is challenging. The dense vegetation, the skittish nature of most of the birds, the taxing humidity and in certain ways the distraction of the leeches are just some of the contributing factors.

In fact, the river cruises provided the best photographic opportunities of the trip despite the constant swaying of the small boats that were used. The Lesser Fish-Eagle is the most prominent raptor along the slow-flowing waters of the Muda River and was recorded during every cruise. Its preference for exposed perches overlooking the river eased efforts in locating this beautiful raptor.

Occasionally, we will come across individuals that are more confiding than usual and that is when the wilds of Ulu Muda truly come to life and flaunted their full glory.

Flocks of Brown-backed Needletails will normally patrol above the river in the evenings and they were a sight to behold. It is such a thrill to watch these huge swifts slice across the sky with such ease and velocity. With audible wingbeats for added dramatic effects, even the non-birders in our midst are left astound. My feeble photographic attempts to capture one of the fastest birds in the world inevitably left much to be desired.

The discovery of a pair of roosting Dusky Eagle-Owls was not only the highlight of the trip but one of the most significant chapters of my birding life. One of the birds was more exposed than the other and it naturally had our undivided attention. Our boatmen skillfully rowed us close to the flooded trees and the blazing yellow iris of this nocturnal predator had everyone spellbound. The Dusky Eagle-Owl is not new to me but this encounter, rocked my world...

When the owl took flight, I initially thought the show was over. However, the best was yet to come. It alighted on an exposed perch nearby and proceeded to sunbathe. And now we had one of the rarest and largest species of owls here in Malaysia right out in the open in broad daytime and appeared to be unperturbed by our intrusion into its domain. It was almost too good to be true.

Throughout my time at Earth Lodge, we recorded another three species of owls and frogmouths. Seven nocturnal birds in a single trip is something I rarely have the privilege to enjoy. However, none of the others came close to the episode with the Dusky Eagle-Owl as they were only heard. The tiny Reddish Scops-Owl called practically every night behind our lodges and my failure to locate the bird was a bitter pill to swallow. Anyway, no one said owling is ever easy. Unless the owl unexpectedly gives you a once in a lifetime experience like this obliging Dusky Eagle-Owl.

The evening cruises usually conclude after sunset. And twilight in the wilderness of Ulu Muda is mesmerizing and therapeutic. I can think of no better way to unwind after a long day of birding than to sit back in our little boats and soak in the ambience. We often seek solitude to escape the hectic modern-day world and here in the embrace of Mother Nature, I have found mine.

Birding along the forest trails here can be tough and frustrating typical of most lowland forests in Peninsular Malaysia. Ulu Muda is home to a huge variety of intriguing species including pittas, trogons, broadbills, woodpeckers and many others. Like their nocturnal counterparts, these birds were more often heard than seen but we faired relatively well. At the time of writing, the White-crowned Forktail was the latest addition (no. 330 to be exact) to the checklist of Earth Lodge but this striking stream dweller managed to evade my photographic efforts.

When it comes to photography, priority is always given to my guests. That and the challenging conditions here makes this image of a female Green Broadbill taken along the forest trails the only one worth sharing.

The compound of Earth Lodge is a treasure trove of birds. My French guests and I spent a considerable amount of time just observing the birds passing through or foraging in the vicinity. Since it is slightly more open, I had better luck with my photographic efforts. There are a number of birds that are regularly recorded here and the persistent vocalization of the Rufous-tailed Tailorbird is a common sound of the lodge. A little effort is usually required to see this little denizen and judging from this image, obtaining good photographs will require a whole lot more.

Surprisingly, bulbuls are not as common as I would have expected. Lone birds are occasionally recorded like this Red-eyed Bulbul resting in the canopy level.

The handsome male Blue-winged Leafbird will serenade the vicinity with his radiance and vocal abilities whenever he makes an appearance. He was also one of the few birds I encountered that was confiding enough for a close approach.

A stream flows along one side of the lodge forming a natural border. This riverine habitat shelters the alluring Black-and-red Broadbill but it seldom reveals its name’s sake. I had to wait until my last morning at Earth Lodge to obtain a decent image of it.

Birdwaves sometimes sweep through just above the rooftops of the lodges. This natural phenomenon is like no other but the frantic pace of most of the participants is beyond my photographic abilities. During one such wave, a young male Rufous-winged Philentoma must had struggled to keep up with the rest and took a breather on an exposed perch along the lower storey of the forest.

As expected, the presence of other wildlife helped complete the experience at Earth Lodge. While owling around the lodge, we could not help noticing the presence of bats as they made their way to and from their roosts which are under the roofs. Eventually, we found a small group roosting in the daytime and they turned out to be Forest Short-nosed Fruit Bats. In case you are wondering, identification of this flying mammal was confirmed by my guest who unlike yours truly has a much broader range of interest when it comes to wildlife. For him, there is certainly more to life than just birds.

Affectionately named Emma by Hymeir after the Latin name of the animal, the Forest Crested Lizard can be exceptionally confiding and we encountered it on several occasions. It tends to remain motionless for long periods of time and that made it an excellent subject for photography. It did abandon its preference for tree trunks at one time and the image turned out to be my favourite of this beautiful lizard.

A skink crawling about the dining-cum-assembly area had everyone’s attention during one of the days. It was unfamiliar to me as well and I joined in excitement. The cracks of a tree log provided just enough cover for this delicate lizard to briefly remain still for its image to be taken. The Yellow Striped Tree Skink is not only stunning but apparently, it is also relatively scarce.

There is nothing delicate about the Large Forest Gecko. As the name implies, it is a true behemoth as far as geckos go. We came across not one but two of these impressive lizards hunting on the outer wall of the lodges at night no doubt attracted by the insects drawn to the lights. A katydid would make a tasty snack for the gecko as this unwary individual is about to find out.

Insects, to me, are of another world altogether and there is no shame in admitting it. Identification can be a real nightmare even for some spectacular specimens like this caterpillar going about its daily routine next to the walkway of the lodge.

As a closing to a remarkable five days at Earth Lodge, here are snapshots of some plants (yes, you read it right) that somehow managed to momentarily divert my attention from the birds. A total of 122 species of birds were recorded from which almost half are heard only. So, it was not exactly a walk in the park. It took determination, patience and luck to glimpse into the secretive world of some of these species. Nevertheless it is one of the most exhilarating and memorable birding adventures I have had in a long time. Our daily checklists are in the links below and they will give you an idea of what can be expected. However, what the checklists cannot give is the magical essence of Earth Lodge. For that, you have to visit this amazing place and experience it for yourself.

Checklist of birds day #1

Checklist of birds day #2

Checklist of birds day #3

Checklist of birds day #4

Checklist of birds day #5

Easter came early

My latest birding excursion fell on Good Friday but unfortunately, the weather was not in a very cheerful mood. Together with PK, my guest from Singapore, we made our way to the forest of Sungai Sedim. As we trekked up the slopes of Gunung Bintang, the atmosphere was dark and cold courtesy of the southwest monsoon. Despite the gloom, I picked out the all-too-familiar penetrating whistle of the Rufous-winged Philentoma. And just like my last visit, the resident male greeted us with his striking colouration when he momentarily revealed himself from the dim understorey of the forest he calls home. The lighting conditions may have rob us of any real chance to obtain good shots but to have a Rufous-winged Philentoma as your first bird of the day deserves some of recognition.

A small flycatcher hawking for insects next to the trail had our attention next. Upon further scrutiny it turned out to be Iron Boy, a name christened by Singaporean birders for the Ferruginous Flycatcher. I took a liking to the nickname almost immediately as it does suit this adorable little migrant well. I do not come across this flycatcher as often as I like to and this encounter was a pleasant addition to our now rapidly growing checklist for the day. That’s a good boy…

The sweet song of the Grey-headed Canary-flycatcher is a regular feature of the forest here. It tends to keep to the safety of the canopy and that makes observation and photography tedious. Its minute size does not help much to. However, it is a charming bird which often brightens up birding excursions here.

Babblers are well represented here in Sungai Sedim but they do not make good subjects for photography. On those rare occasions when the stars are aligned just right, magic transcends upon your birding excursion and you will get that shot that has eluded you all these years. The Scaly-crowned Babbler is not uncommon here. I have crossed paths with this tree babbler several times in the past but I have very little to show in the end except for the memories. This lone individual changed all that by being, I suppose, as confiding as a babbler could ever get. Resting on an exposed perch at eye level, it was almost too good to be true.

Although I am way too old to believe in the Easter Bunny and all that but this year, Easter came early for me. I stumbled upon an Easter Egg in the form of a Rufous Piculet – both being rounded, colourful and cause a lot of excitement. This female was foraging along the middle storey of the forest when she alighted very close to the access trail. The active nature of the bird and the harsh lighting prevented me from getting much better images from this encounter.

The next destination for the day was the paddy fields at mainland Penang. Remaining flocks of waterbirds working the fields with the tractors were again the centre of attention. Standing out like fresh blossoms on a snow-laden field during the first days of spring were the Cattle Egrets. Sporting their smart breeding plumage, they overshadowed the bigger egrets as the mixed flocks foraged together in tight formations.

At this time of the year, Pond-herons are objects of affection as they adorn their respective breeding plumages. Penang is one of the few states where one stands a chance to see all three species in one area and that we did today. A confiding Javan Pond-heron provided the main highlight for the Pond-heron observations. It was foraging quietly just beside the access road and both guest and guide were visibly excited by the encounter.

Very few raptors hover here in Malaysia and one of them is the striking Back-shouldered Kite. Its hovering action is a delight to watch. Like poetry in motion, the flight agilities of this raptor is remarkable and my images could never capture the true essence of this encounter.

Since it was my guest’s maiden visit to the Pearl of the Orient, a detour to the swamp forest of Air Hitam Dalam was inevitable to pay homage to one of the star birds of the state.

Almost like clockwork, the male Mangrove Blue Flycatcher was seen resting on his favourite tree. PK openly expressed how astonished he was by the beauty of this bird. And I, could not agree with him more.

The migratory Black Kites were still seen loitering this wintering ground but in smaller numbers now. The tall trees across the river provide the ideal refuge and just a little effort is all that is needed to locate one resting among the tallest branches.

PK was staying at his in-laws’ place in Bukit Mertajam. As it was a no-show for my usual Barred Eagle-owl earlier this afternoon, I decided to swing by the recreational park at Bukit DO before calling it a day as it very close to where I was to drop off my guest. The park was crowded as expected. And we were losing daylight rapidly. It took a while but the gamble paid off. A single Barred Eagle-owl was getting ready for the hunt and to perched on one of the lower branches of its usual roosting tree. My guest got one of his most anticipated target lifers - finally. What a bird to wrap things up for another memorable day of birding.

The checklist of the birds recorded during this trip can be found here:

1. Sungai Sedim

2. Permatang Pauh

3. Air Hitam Dalam

The black sheep...

The southwest monsoon has started to sweep into the west coast of Peninsular Malaysia and rain has been a prominent feature of late. It was cold and wet when I waited at the hotel lobby for my latest guest. Even as we were making our way to the forest of Sungai Sedim, we were constantly tormented by intermittent drizzle. I had to put on a brave face and stay positive. It could be a very long day for me if the weather does not improve. All my worries were put to rest when we trekked up the Gunung Bintang access trail. The drizzle had stop and the dawn chorus filled the vicinity with hope of what the brand new day might bring. Graeme is an experienced birder from London and it will take something out of the ordinary to push his buttons. The penetrating whistle of the Rufous-winged Philentoma stopped us at our tracks. This striking flycatcher is no ordinary bird and a confiding male singing on an exposed perch is no ordinary encounter despite the testing shooting conditions. Buttons pushed? Most certainly...

Woodpeckers form one of the most amazing and stunning family of birds in Malaysia. The forest here is home to quite a few species of these birds and one of them is the impressive Orange-backed Woodpecker. On this occasion, the bird was below eye level as the access trail was next to a deep ravine. The elevated view provided an intimate and memorable encounter as a pair of them moved about noisily along the middle storey of the forest.

The fruits of the active fruiting tree a few weeks back should be depleted by now but I did walk past the tree just to be sure. Birdwaves also offer several species at a single spot but unlike fruiting trees, the patrons hardly stay still making it hard to observe them let alone photograph. A male Scarlet Minivet is a very good reason to ignore other species at a birdwave and give it the attention he truly deserves. The vivid red colour pierces through the foliage of the canopy like a hot amber and he stood still long enough for me to capture a lousy shot that does no justice to the true resplendence of this forest dweller.

A quick detour at the Kulim Hi Tech Park after the morning session at Sungai Sedim yielded expected results. The resident Barred Eagle-owl was at hand again to thrill and intrigue my foreign guest with its unworldly beauty.

The next location we visited was the paddy fields of mainland Penang. Although by now most of the migratory waterbirds would have undertaken their journey back to their breeding grounds in the north, it is still the best time to catch the Pond-herons in their respective breeding plumages. From a drab-looking heron, they now sport striking plumage colourations which is a remarkable transformation. The Chinese Pond-heron may be the commonest of all the Pond-Herons but in my book, it is the most attractive. An individual in full breeding plumage, may it be in good light or in the shade, will have my undivided attention.

Despite a careful search, there was no sign of the Indian Pond-heron – the rarest Pond-heron of them all. As a consolation, we found no less than 5 Javan Pond-herons. Although the latter is not that rare, it is good to see them again after a lapse of one year. My love affair with the Pond-herons is an annual fling and it was truly rekindled this afternoon. It was most unfortunate that this Javan Pond-heron was strongly backlighted but it was so obliging that I did not have the heart to shun it.

Every time a tractor goes to work at the fields, so will the birds. The tractors plough to loosen up the soil. The birds follow the tractor to reap easy rewards. Invertebrates, insects, amphibians, small mammals are greedily snapped up. We came across one such scene and egrets formed the majority of the birds present. One thing I love about birding is you never know what to expect. Among the sea of white feathers, one individual stood out like a beacon in the dark. Perhaps more like the black sheep of the family. It was an intermediate morph Little Egret and I guess it can be considered rare as this is my first ever sighting. There is an individual at Malim Nawar in Perak for the past few seasons but I never got round to locating it because every time I am there, it was to twitch for some mega lifer.

It was very sociable and I found it hard to isolate it from the rest of its compatriots for a photograph.

Decades of birding has moulded me into a patient man and good things usually come to those who wait. It took a while but the Little Egret did wander away from the rest momentarily and that certainly made my day.

Only after then I paid some attention to the other egrets that were present and most of the Cattle Egrets were sporting their smart breeding plumages. This confiding individual stood very close to our stationery vehicle and looking very smug for my camera.

The last location for the day was the freshwater swamp forest of Air Hitam Dalam. This once amazing birding hotspot is starting to lose its charms. It never quite recovered ever since the falling of the huge tree in the middle of the reserve. Having said that I am very grateful that the Mangrove Blue Flycatcher still calls this place home.

To wrap things up for the first day, a Black Kite gliding casually overhead just as the weather started to turn for the worse. And the timing could not have been better as we were heading to our vehicle for the journey back. Anyway a handful of these elegant raptors were recorded but they will soon join others of their kin at their northern breeding grounds.

The next dawn we were again greeted by dark skies and drizzle. We were blessed because just like yesterday, the weather improved upon our arrival at the birding site. A pair of Chestnut-naped Forktails flitting about the stream that runs alongside the landscaped recreational area of Bukit Wang Forest Reserve access trail got the ball rolling. Bukit Wang proved to be a good decision again and Graeme, being more of a birder than a bird photographer, was really soaking in the presence of the rich avifauna despite the lack of good photographic opportunities.

I finally lifted up my camera when a foraging Chestnut-breasted Malkoha alighted momentarily on an exposed perch way up in the canopy level. Common as it may be, I have very few images of this striking but shy cuckoo and it is not due to lack of trying.

We came across a few birdwaves here as well and one particular wave brought out a true feathered jewel of the forest. The white morph male Asian Paradise Flycatcher (I will not let recent taxonomical updates get in the way with my tribute to this exquisite bird), is proof that angels do exist in this world. Words can hardly describe the moment you see one gracefully waltz through the foliage of the forest, long tail trailing and all, in search of insect prey. Even my terrible attempt in trying to immortalize the encounter in digital format could not undermine this moment of pure magic. That is what the male Asian Paradise Flycatcher does best – providing memories that last a lifetime.

I thought our photography woes were finally over when we came across an active fruiting tree. But all the barbets, leafbirds, bulbuls and flowerpeckers that came were no where close to be as confiding as their counterparts at a fruiting tree in Sungai Sedim. This made me realize how lucky it is to be able to experience this natural phenomenon at one of my local patches on a yearly basis. The only bird that gave us some decent images was a flock of Black-headed Bulbuls.

This is one of the few places in Peninsular Malaysia where the scarce Wallace’s Hawk-eagle is regularly encountered. This time, it suddenly glided just above our heads and I could even make out the dark chestnut head with my naked eyes. I fumbled with my camera and by the time I had the beautiful raptor in focus, it was simply too late. But it was certainly one of the highlights of the trip – for both of us. A pair of Black-thighed Falconets was caught in a compromising position but the distance of the love perch from our position denied us any good images.

As we making our way to the car park to call it a day, the virgin jungle of Bukit Wang had a parting gift waiting for us. A flowering at the entrance was attracting a lot of insects. The insects in turn attracted a predator. A female Korean Flycatcher rested contentedly among the foliage no doubt after a feasting on the insects. She also provided the best photographic opportunity of the day. Part of her tail was blocked by the perch and judging by my luck with photography today, would not have it any other way. This common migrant provided the perfect ending for another memorable birding excursion spanning over two days and two states here in northern Peninsular Malaysia.

The complete checklists for all the locations covered in this post can be found here in eBird Malaysia.

1. Sungai Sedim Recreational Forest (Kedah)

2. Kulim Hi Tech Park (Kedah)

3. Permatang Pauh Paddy Fields (Penang)

4. Air Hitam Dalam Educational Forest (Penang)

5. Bukit Wang Forest Reserve (Kedah)