Compromising is the key to all happiness

 

It has been far too long since I last experienced the birding wonders of Fraser’s Hill. When my better half suggested we should do a short getaway from our hectic working lives and each choose a location, mine was an easy decision. Initially, I had my doubts if it was even possible for a birder like yours truly to have a somewhat normal vacation up this hill resort. However, the years have taught me that a happy marriage is all about compromise and compromise I did. It was only a night’s stay and I booked a cozy (and birdy) little bungalow that will hopefully be able to keep both of us satisfied.

Stephen’sPlace lived up to its reputation from the gracious host to the romantic interiors and the pristine surroundings. Stephen the owner, for some time now, has been running a second place called the MCM Nature Discovery Villa which is more impressive and just a short walk from the first bungalow. It has a mini library and a host of other facilities to keep, you know, ‘normal’ guests occupied during their vacation in Fraser’s Hill. However, I have been exposed to the treasures this rich ecosystem hold. Once you are exposed, you are smitten for life and the only time you can find me indoors during the day and not out birding is when the weather is unforgiving. Except for this occasion.

There is a watch tower at the villa with stunning views of this lush montane forest. But for me, the view was not the only thing that had my attention.

I would have trembled with exhilaration if this was taken at some Godforsaken marsh out there in the wilds but this Mandarin Duck is also part of the attractions here.

And no, I did not leave my wife to fend for herself during our visit. That is not compromising. We explored the rustic charms of Fraser’s Hill and took leisurely walks together. If there is one thing in life that can rival my passion for birds, it would be her. And time spent together is time well spent. It also made it easier to excuse myself for a few hours the next morning to bird.

Now, to the birds. I restricted my birding endeavours to the bungalow compounds and nearby vicinities. And I was fortunate that a fruiting tree next to the compound was in season and it attracted flocks of Little Cuckoo-Doves. For this common montane species, heard only records and birds seen in flight constitute most encounters. However, the availability of food can sometimes sway the will of even the most secretive species.

The Little Cuckoo-Doves took very little effort to conceal their presence and neither did I. I slowly repositioned myself to improve my photographic efforts and the doves continued to tolerate my intrusion. It has been a relatively uneventful birding year for me and naturally this encounter is up there among the best.

Typical of pigeons and doves, they are far from graceful when foraging. Plenty of flapping and lumbering about as these sizeable birds struggle for foot holds in order to reach the succulent fruits.

As far as I can tell, all the images I obtained were of male birds – not that it mattered. The mesmerizing pale blue eyes were bewitching and rekindled my love for this amazing birding locality.

Flowering trees, natural or planted, are heaven-sent for nectar feeders like the Streaked Spiderhunter. And the garden at Stephen’s Place is one of the easiest spots to observe this common but striking species.

The Streaked Spiderhunter was the most photographed species this time. It came as no surprise given the amount of time I spent at the compound. One particular individual was exceptionally confiding and left me breathless on more than one occasion. Most of the time, the status of a bird is irrelevant to me. It is the experience provided that holds the true value.

I usually do not expect remarkable images from my modest setup and moderate photographic skills. But on those rare occasions when my images turn out better than expected, it is simply magical even for a common species.

The Black-throated Sunbirds also patronized the lovely blooms of this garden but on this trip, the males were reluctant to fully reveal their splendour for my viewing pleasure.

Moths and other insects are attracted to the lights of the bungalow at night and a number of fascinating species greeted us on the morning of our stay here. I will not attempt to identify the moths I am sharing in this post as we all know, identification of insects is a whole different ball game. But their appeal certainly did not go unappreciated.

My beloved avian subjects also took a keen interest on the moths but theirs are of a different nature. Large Cuckooshrikes boldly swoop in overhead to carry off larger insects for breakfast. Just like the phenomenon of fruiting trees in season, gluttony is a deadly sin few can resist.

I was a little disappointed with the variety of birds that were recorded at this banquet but the memorable performance by the diminutive Black-thighed Falconet single-handedly kept that feeling in check.

Birds that occur in the mountains tend to be more obliging than their lowland counterparts. Add a seemingly endless supply of food into the mix and you will find yourself enjoying rather intimate observations that would otherwise not be easily obtainable.

Unlike the Little Cuckoo-doves, the Black-thighed Falconet forages or more accurately, hunts with deadly precision. I must admit the hunts are nothing as spectacular as the larger falcons’ but they are still quite a sight.

Although it is a known birding hotspot, one is not guaranteed a rewarding excursion every single time. Nothing in birding ever is. A flock of Hume’s White-eyes with their cheerful calls and active nature is rather difficult to be overlooked during my brief birding endeavours beyond the bungalow grounds. The conditions under the lush forest canopy made photography challenging and a stroke of good fortune produced this decent capture of a resting individual.

Persistent vocalization gave away the presence of Buff-breasted Babblers skulking away in the undergrowth. Patience and determination provided brief glimpses into their secretive world. Mist and poor lighting may appeal to some as it provides the mountainside feel. However, I greeted them with profanities because they hindered my efforts to capture the babblers significantly.

It is always a treat to be serenaded by the sweet repertoires of the Oriental Magpie-Robin. However, I did not put in much effort to photograph this songster as I was constantly distracted by other species present. This is, after all, a birding site rivalled by few in Peninsular Malaysia.

A migratory Grey Wagtail foraging along the edge of a manmade pond briefly held my attention. But the distance and restless nature of this individual were unlikely to improve the encounter if I had decided not to withdraw my efforts.

And to wrap things up for this revisit to a beloved birding ground is this image of a Tiger Shrike with its most vital parts concealed by the vegetation. No one ever said birding or bird photography is always easy. But I guess that is beauty of the birding as it keeps you coming back for more.

Living colours (Part 2)

Some of the birds found here in Fraser’s Hill find it hard to respect personal space of others. But for birders, it is a trait that is most welcomed. Rufous-browed Flycatchers can be ridiculously tame at times and this individual came close enough for me to give a pat on the head. I guess this is the magic of Fraser’s Hill.

No visit here is ever complete without feasting your eyes on the splendid colouration of the Silver-eared Mesia. No doubt it is common and conspicuous here but I do not get to see it often enough. And after all these years, it can still get me excited.  

This trip the Silver-eared Mesias outdid themselves and provided several intimate encounters and photographic opportunities that were simply amazing.

I am well aware of the sexual dimorphism found in this species. Perhaps both sexes are just as spectacular that I do not even bother to take notice of the differences all that often. Here, the male in front exhibits a slightly more intense colouration to the throat and nape area compared to his mate.

However, not all avian residents of Fraser’s Hill are confiding and this resting Mountain Imperial-Pigeon reminded us that we are dealing with completely wild birds here and occasionally may not adhere to the will of man.

With its preference for the canopy levels, the Large Cuckoo-shrike usually does not provide close encounters. But it is not uncommon here. Its vocal nature especially in flight makes it rather conspicuous in a way.

It took some persistence to finally obtained great views of the Fiery-tufted Barbet this trip. This remarkable resident of the montane forest is a pure delight to photograph and it certainly left a lasting impression on my guest.

The larger than life personality with eye lashes that are the envy of women everywhere and as well as vivid coloration makes the Fiery-tufted Barbet one of the most distinct species of birds found here.

On the last day of our birding adventure, we have not forgotten about the Red-headed Trogon. We spent the morning along Hemmant’s Trail as there was where we came the closest to tasting success. A male bird offered a brief view at a distance and that only compounded our frustrations. After checking out from the hotel, we decided to give it a final try. It was almost noon and with each passing minute, our chance grew ever slimmer. Just as we about to give up hope, I spotted the trogon resting just next to the forest trail. Finally, after more than six attempts along this isolated stretch of the hill resort, we got the Red-headed Trogon. It would have been perfect had it been the male but the all the anxiety leading up to this moment and the confiding nature of this female bird made the encounter as good as it is ever going to get.

We took our time to savour the moment and this girl was more than happy to oblige. I am not sure about my guest but I was feeling a little out of breath as we positioned ourselves the best we could to capture her images. It could have been the sight of the trogon perched so elegantly on this curvy vine or the suspense of the hunt. She did shift position once during our observation before flying deeper into the forest to join her mate. The male, yet again, taunted us from a distance. I guess in life, sometimes you just have to roll with the punches.

Here is Paul, on his knees, in the presence of a startling beauty. He added one more trogon for his lifetime gold and yours truly, an overwhelming sense of satisfaction (and relieve) for helping him achieve his targets for the trip. Just in case you are wondering why I am taking photos of a human instead of a trogon, the latter was so cooperative I had ample time to do basically anything I want.

Shortly after mist began crawl up from the valley below and rain clouds darkened the sky. It could well be only a coincidence but I like to take it as divine intervention. A soft word of gratitude was uttered to a higher power before we start our descent from the birding haven. Fraser’s Hill proved once again why it is one of the best birding locations in Malaysia. And for both of us, it was certainly a memorable visit. It is routine for me to stopover at the Kek Lok Tong cave temple in Ipoh for my drives back to Penang. The temple with its impressive and artistic limestone formations is quite a sight to behold. Although Paul did give this natural phenomenon its due attention, it was not our main reason for the visit here. The temple grounds were rather devoid of interesting birds this time with the exception of a Square-tailed Drongo-Cuckoo hunting along the boundary of the temple.

At the car park area, we encountered one of the reasons birders flock to this place of worship – the resident Blue Rock-Thrushes. Accustomed to human presence, these limestone dwellers usually provide great photographic opportunities. The female although slightly less intense in colouration put on a memorable performance for a couple of weary visiting birders.

But once the radiant male makes an appearance, all eyes and lenses were on him. The Blue Rock-Thrush was a fitting end to another fantastic road trip and his vivid colouration certainly went well with my guest’s taste for luscious colours of the avian world. The drive back was smooth although there intermittent showers along the way. But one thing is for sure. Both of us, had one particular bird in our thoughts and it was the Red-headed Trogon that almost got the better of us.