Journey to The Mountain City of China

 

There are a few places in China that has gained tremendous popularity as tourist destinations in recent years. Chongqing which is located in the south-western side of this massive country is one of them. My better half and I decided to go for a regular tour to this holiday destination and initially, I considered leaving my birding gear at home for this one. A similar tour that we had to Vietnam where I managed to obtain one significant experience from only a single bird throughout the entire visit was not exactly encouraging. However, a little research online and optimism convinced me otherwise just before the departure date.

Chongqing certainly lived up to its reputation. The countryside was truly amazing and were my favourite parts of this sightseeing excursion.

Do not get me wrong. The city was impressive too with a rich mixture of tradition and modern technology.

However, it is after dark that this so-called Cyberpunk City comes to life and reveals its true splendour.

In terms of birds, Chongqing exceeded my expectations. Although it is only casual birding, I noticed that quite a few places were teeming with birds – even in the city centre. One particular species was quite prominent in the countryside and it was the Red-billed Blue-Magpie. I have recorded it in Cambodia before but it was certainly scarcer there.

Big, colourful and loud; I crossed paths with this remarkable bird on several occasions throughout the tour. Even my sightseeing tour guide is quite familiar with this species and that supports my guess of the bird’s status here. I know that the grass is always greener on the other side but just look at it. There is not one inch of the Red-billed Blue-Magpie that spells ordinary.

We visited several rivers during our 8-day stay and most of them had their own distinct charms. The smaller ones especially if they were rocky, had my undivided attention. Not so much for their appeal but for the feathered residents that they might house.

One particular river stood out from the rest and the circumstances in which things unfolded was unfortunately, bittersweet. Our group was waiting for our turn to embark on a boat trip in the Puhua district. There was a long queue and for almost an hour, we were on an elevated waiting area overlooking the river. While the rest of the group grew restless, I was overwhelmed with excitement because it was a great vantage point for birding. It began with the unmistakeable presence of a forktail foraging directly below. Upon further scrutiny, the greyish back was undeniable. And there is only so much that a familiar species like a Slaty-backed Forktail can conjure up for me despite the prolonged observation.

A pair of Plumbeous Redstarts was also flitting about the fast-flowing waters of this idyllic river. And just like the ones I encountered in Vietnam, they were rather confiding. I have to admit that I did not pay as much attention to them as much as I should have. I was feeling optimistic. After obtaining a record shot of the male Plumbeous Redstart, I started scanning every inch of the river in hopes of obtaining of my first global lifer of the trip. When the wait for the boat was over, I reluctantly kept my gear only to catch sight of a stunning male White-capped Redstart flying across the river and alighting on the rocks where I have been staring at just minutes ago. There was no way of halting the boat without making a scene and I could only watch my lifer until the distance was just too great.

Our tour took us to several scenic areas with amazing limestone formations and lush landscapes. As expected, I managed to capture just a small fraction of the birds found here. During overseas vacations with my better half, the key to an enjoyable outing is moderation and compromising. Despite being surrounded by an array of bird calls very foreign to me, I still have the discipline to pull myself away when required. What can I say? She has trained me well.

Collared Finchbills are interesting-looking birds that I have encountered before in Taiwan. An individual attracted to a fruiting tree provided one of the notable encounters for my China trip. The fruiting tree was located at the entrance to the City Grand Canyon of Qianjiang. I took it as a sign from above but one rarely gets the satisfaction of being right based on gut feelings alone when it comes to birding – rarely but not never.

The fruits also attracted a Pallas’s Squirrel and since only the Finchbill was the only other species present, the rodent had some time in the limelight.

White-browed Laughingthrushes are relatively common in this region. Despite occurring in flocks and showing little fear to human presence, they have a tendency of keeping themselves partially hidden. And their active nature compounds my frustration. Perhaps it is just bad luck. Luckily, I still have this one photo to show in the end.

Drably-coloured bulbuls often require effort to positively identify. Back in Malaysia, this is a constant challenge and I guess it is no different here. Although the Brown-breasted Bulbul is not exactly drab, I was still uncertain of its identification until I consulted Dave.

And just like back home, fruiting trees are a natural magnet for bulbuls. I wished I had more time for the birds patronizing this tree but this lifer will just have to do. Moderation and compromising, remember?

We had our first Daurian Redstart in Malaysia a few years back. The bird, despite being the duller female, provided much excitement at the time. I know fully well how attractive the male can be and when I finally saw him in the flesh, he was even more stunning. My gut feeling turned out right and this location contributed the most species for my photographic efforts.   

The Fairy Mountain was one of the destinations I looked forward to for the trip. Based on my research and AI assistance, it should be the place that will make lugging more than two kilograms of photographic gear around during a regular tour worth the while. Our tour bus finally crossed into the boundaries of The Fairy Mountain National Forest Park after midday. The mist was unbelievable heavy which was something I did not expect to face at this hour. Everyone in the tour group was elated with this mesmerizing condition. I was devastated.

Luckily, I did not end up empty-handed. While on board one of the shuttle buses that operates within the park, I caught sight of a flock of Collared Crows resting on dead tree next to the access road. This lifer would have made a fine addition to my photographic efforts for the trip but instead it became one of the major disappointments in terms of bird photography. The Azure-winged Magpies, which I came across in an urban park within the city centre on the last day of our tour, was another heartbreaker. And that time, it was not due to being in a moving bus but Murphy’s Law. I decided to leave my gear in our hotel room thinking I could not possibly encounter anything during a city tour that warrant the use of my camera. A goddamn lifer proved me wrong.

Anyway, back to Fairy Mountain (I think Misty Mountain would be a more appropriate name). A few Oriental Magpies have adapted to surviving off scraps left behind by visitors to this tourist hotspot and judging from the huge crowd when I was there, these birds have it made. Despite the mist, the images turned out better than expected and the bold nature of the birds was a big help.

The main birding highlight of this trip took place on another mountain, Jinfosan. The open areas yielded a distant Long-tailed Shrike. As it is not uncommon in my country, this record shot was sufficient.

We then walked along a nature trail that reminded me of The Mossy Forest Eco Park in Cameron Highlands. As with most of the sites we visited, the scenery was fascinating. After capturing this photo, my wife excitedly signalled and told me that there were birds along the path in front of her and I rushed over.

Instead of finding the birds gone, which would be the usual case, the birds were still there. In fact, the flock appeared to be moving towards me. I knew they were Red-tailed Laughingthrushes and their beauty precedes them. The flock consisted of both adults and juveniles. Naturally, the young ones were much bolder. At times, I could have given them a pat on the head!

To be in such close proximities with these birds was an incredible experience. I find it hard to recall the last time I was given such privilege. The Red-tailed Laughingthrush is a fitting species to end my casual birding endeavour to China. Just like most of the attractions here, the bird was striking and definitely memory-making material.

The Bird Hide Part 1: Never say never

 

I never thought the day would come when I will spend an entire day sitting in a hide. I also never thought that I could exhaust both my memory card and camera battery during one single sitting. Never say never, I guess. I always carry spare cards with me but for the other problem, thankfully Nigel had one to spare. Just beyond the borders of Kaeng Krachan National Park, there is a hide owned by a man that goes by the name of Mr. Bird. His hide is called, none other than, The Bird Hide. A simple name but an apt one indeed. How else could I, a birder by nature, spend almost ten hours straight in a permanent hide. Lunch and drinks were delivered and the only time we actually took breaks were to answer the call of nature.

Like what I mentioned in one of my earlier post, there is also a watering hole here to entice feathered gems out of hiding. The weather condition plays a major role and it was another sweltering day which made it perfect. The flood gates opened when a flock of Greater Necklaced Laughingthrushes swarmed in like paratroopers. Beautiful and boisterous, this lifer immediately increased the level of exhilaration within the hide.

I am no stranger to the antics of Laughingthrushes as this family of birds also occur in Malaysia. Even back home, I have not grown tired of observing them. Now imagine a new species with tons of personalities. Enough said.

Before we could regained our composure, a flock of Lesser Necklaced Laughingthrushes decided to join in. I usually do some homework before I visit another country for birding and so, I am aware of the existence of two Necklaced Laughinghthrushes. However, it still took a while before I could comfortably differentiate the two species. And here are plainer-faced and shorter-billed Lesser Necklaced Laughingthrushes.

Behaviour-wise, I think both species are identical. What the Greaters do, the Lessers did it too. And the result is not unlike observing a fiesta. Initially I had my camera mounted on a tripod. That is the usual practice for hide photography. But I could not cope with the level of bird activity in front of my eyes. Once unrestrained, it evened the playing field and I slipped into a hidden world filled with awe and wonders.

I ended up shooting more the Lesser Necklaced Laughingthrushes. It was not because I had favouritism but simply because they were more photogenic.

Because of the unprecedented number of images obtained during our time in the hide, much thought was given as to how to blog about this divine experience. In the end, I decided to go with covering one species at a time. And made it into two parts instead of cramping all into one. Hence, you will notice that images of a single species will have different lighting conditions as they were taken throughout the day. The third species of Laughingthrush recorded, the White-crested Laughingthrush, makes a fine example of that.

At least three birds were present in the vicinity and they started appearing around midday. They were also one of the last birds we photograph before calling it a day.

However, their contrasting plumage colourations made it difficult to get the right exposure. These active birds’ preference for the forest floor did not make it any easier. What was easy though was being amused by all their garrulous chatters and quirky personalities.

At the Cafe De Camp Hide a few days back, I was intrigued by the captivating Racket-tailed Treepie. Here, I was overwhelmed.

Lighting is of utmost importance when it comes to capturing the true beauty of the Treepies. I could ogle at that greenish plumage and blue eyes all day long. Come to think of it, I actually did.

I reckon the Racket-tailed Treepies were one of the main reasons I exhausted my memory card. I just could not help myself and I think their visitation frequency outnumbered every other species present.

Everything at The Bird Hide seemed to be amplified and the Racket-tailed Treepies at times show up in flocks of up to three individuals. When they lined up on the same vine, it was simply adorable.

There will be birds in your birding life that will not cease to amaze and excite no matter how many times you have observe them before. The Common Green Magpie certainly lives up to this statement. On this hot and sunny day, it made several appearances and is one of the main highlights of the day.

I came across this species quite regularly during my birding in the mountains of my homeland. But they are a pale comparison to what we experienced here during our ten hours at this basic but effective gateway to an amazing world I rarely have been given the privilege to witness.

Big, bold and beautiful there is nothing not to love about this forest denizen. The vibrance of its plumage colourations border the surreal at times and we are more than happy to be in this dream-like state.

It would take something spectacular to distract my attention while I was shooting the Common Green Magpie at the watering hole. And a Large Scimitar Babbler will absolutely do. Unlike the former which it shares its habitat with back in Peninsular Malaysia, I have seen it only once in all my life and a few heard records. This photo captured the moment I realized that today may well be one of the best birding experiences ever. Hallelujah…

It was unfortunate the Large Scimitar Babbler only appeared during the hottest part of the day when the lighting is at its worst. However, it could be for this reason it decided to show up at all. After quenching its thirst, it hastily hopped back into the forest leaving only an encounter that is forever etched into memory.

A definite thumbs up for our day at The Bird Hide...

It is second nature to have my bins with me whenever I am out birding. However, the close proximities of the birds here rarely require the extra magnification for identification. But a little brown job skulking about the shadows of the undergrowth immediately put my bins to use. Eventually the juvenile Siberian Blue Robin left no doubts about its identity and it was back to photography (on a tripod) again.

A Taiga Flycatcher also frequented the vicinity but its distinct undertail made it rather recognizable.

The novelty of the Brown-cheeked Fulvetta has yet to expire and this dull-looking species still has my attention when it was present.

One species that is certainly not a little brown job was the Black-naped Monarch. The male sports a vivid blue plumage and his arrival brought additional colours and splendour to The Bird Hide.

His mate may not be his equal in terms of beauty but she still deserves some recognition.

I did not spend too much time on Bulbuls as most species are relatively familiar to me like the Black-crested Bulbul.

Inevitably, the Stripe-throated Bulbul received similar attention. It is just human nature at work. In the presence of so many amazing species and a number of them being new to me, the commoner species will be taken for granted.

The Blue-winged Leafbird may not be new to me but it will take a heart of stone to ignore the brilliant plumage and song of the male. We shared the hide with another group in the morning. When this species made an appearance, I understood every word they said despite not speaking their language. Their body language and sense of excitement said it all.

It is heartening to see the White-rumped Shama finding sanctuary within and around Kaeng Krachan National Park. Although, this male did show off his vocal talents, his aesthetic appeal was undeniable.

Unbelievably, a male Oriental Pied Hornbill decided to join in the fun and its sheer size sent most of the patrons scattering for safety. I am just grateful I have a zoom lens. Otherwise, I will only have head shots to show.

It is always a pleasure to obtain long and good views of the Asian Emerald Dove. Generally skittish by nature, it is often seen flying for cover more than anything else.

When it stepped into the sunlight, you can see how its name was derived. A true feathered jewel regardless of its common status.

Common but striking. That would be how I will describe a male Common Flameback. I am guessing it is as common here as it is in Peninsular Malaysia but opportunities to increase my field experience with this woodpecker is always welcomed. Especially close encounters like these.

The female lacks the flaming red crest of the male bird but she can still hold her own in terms of attraction.

A little degree of scrutiny is required to differentiate the larger but similar-looking Greater Flameback. I do not come across the species as often as the former and this prolonged encounter did not go unappreciated. I guess hoping for a male to come along was pushing it a little far.

The sleek and shiny form of a Bronze Drongo grace the vicinity for a short period of time. Too short if you asked me. After taking a sip, it retreated back into the forest and did not return again.

Honestly, I could not complain. It faired so much better than the Hair-crested Drongo. For the second consecutive hide experience, a Drongo species remained sceptical and kept its distance from the refreshments being offered. 

I have left out a fascinating group of birds that made our visit to The Bird Hide so phenomenal. In fact, they were the main targets for this birding location and it was a blessing that the poor show of the Drongo in the previous paragraph was an isolated incident. Stay tuned for the second part of this post.