The golden hour mesmerizes like no other

 

During one of the afternoons at Khao Yai National Park, it rained and we decided to try our luck at another birding location. After all, this whole area is Arjin’s playground because he is lucky enough to have a permanent residence here. He took us to an open country and scrubland type of habitat in Ban Ngoi with a peculiar bird in mind to brighten up our day. The Yellow-eyed Babbler behaves more like a Reed-Warbler more than anything else and thrives in an environment that is preferred by the latter as well. The first of these birds that we encountered actually fulfilled all the requirements for a lifer record – visual, call and image. But I was secretly hoping for something more.

We then drove to the next spot but not before obtaining a record shot of another lifer. The male Asian Golden Weaver in breeding colours is a sight to behold but he just would not oblige our photographic requests.

The target at the next spot was the Small Pratincole and from the air of confidence surrounding our guide, I would say this uncommon species is a regular here. Initially, we did our photography from the vehicle. The human form will probably put all forty of them to flight – yes, forty! And the look on this individual is not a positive sign at all.

We knew it was unlikely to come across this opportunity again and decided to put our fate to the test. We carefully got out of our vehicle and inched towards these unusual-looking waders.  The three of us went our separate ways. It is a big congregation after all. I found myself drawn to a particular individual and I followed what could only be my gut instinct.

To my surprise, the chosen one started to approach me instead and I immediately stopped moving and waited. I guess the unexplainable connection between me and this adorable little fellow was real after all.

Eventually it came closer than most wild birds would to a birder. You noticed that I used the word birder and not human. It is an unspoken truth (and personal observations) that birds of open country are extremely tolerant towards field workers. Present yourself as a birder and the posterior of the bird as it flies away is what you will get most of the time.

The Small Pratincole is sort of a personal bogey bird for my life list especially on home soil. And here, more than a thousand kilometers away, I can finally put that ‘tick’ to rest. Fortune favours the bold and, in this case, my life has certainly been enriched by the accommodating nature of this particular feathered individual.

I was so caught up in the moment that I lost track of my companions. When I came to, they were on the opposite side of the pratincole patch photographing a couple of Temmick’s Stint. Before leaving the vicinity, we encountered another species that was uncommon to us but the Oriental Skylark was just too far for any improvement shots.

We made another attempt at the Yellow-eyed Babblers but at a different spot. And this time, the birds were exceptional. My hope did come true and that does not happen often enough when birding.

There was a pair of them again and when I did some post-trip research, these birds are known to develop life-long bonds and encountering solitary birds would be rare. They also exhibited the inquisitive qualities typical of babblers. Thus, rebuking my earlier thoughts of them having an identity crisis.

As the sun gradually descended towards the horizon, the effects of the golden hour were added value to our photography. This Yellow-eyed Babbler was so accommodating that I found myself lost in those piercing eyes. And if eyes are indeed the windows to our souls, then this fascinating species has certainly entered mine.

Sitting in our vehicle parked next to some bushes overlooking a stream was not exactly a picture one would envision of birding in a far-off land surrounded by the wonders of nature. However, this unassuming location provided one of the most memorable photo sessions of the trip for me.

By the time we started our drive back to the hotel, it was already dark. And we finally got an owl in a nocturnal environment. The Eastern Barn Owl is a widespread species and its proficiency at keeping rats at bay makes it a welcomed member to any community.

All good things must come to an end and the final day of our Thai adventure came faster than anticipated – naturally. With a few hours to spare before we all parted ways, our guide presented us a parting gift by taking a detour across an agricultural land in Pak Phli at the outskirts of Bangkok City. The Plain Prinia is not new to us because we encountered this species a few times before but today, we were able to capture good images of this relatively common species.

Typical of this family of birds, it is active by nature and we had to constantly deal with its rapid movements. The bright lighting conditions was a double-edged sword. Although it helped my modest photographic gear to keep up with the Plain Prinias, the harshness effected the quality of the images. But I rather have sharp than ideally exposed photos anytime.

Before I embarked on this remarkable journey to Thailand, news broke out of Bluethroats wintering at one of my local patches in mainland Penang. I have recorded this species during my trip to Cambodia but it is a rare migrant to Malaysia nevertheless. No doubt a significant tick in my Malaysian life list as well. But a greater calling beckoned and I told myself I will gradually get round to this rare visitor after my big trip. Fast forward a week or so and here I am, in central Thailand, enjoying a striking male Bluethroat performing admirably in front of us. And I could not help but to feel the irony. It is not uncommon here in central Thailand but I guess a confiding individual like this one probably is.

There is no denying the beauty of a male Bluethroat though. The vivid blue throat and breast band complimented by the surrounding tinge of orange gave the impression that the bird ornamented himself with precious stones. I bet my fellow birders back home are just as enthralled.

After the exhilarating encounter with the Bluethroat, I was finally ready to go home. But the alluring bird life of central Thailand was not quite done yet.

The Striated Grassbird is another species very foreign to me. When we came across one perched right out in the open, I guessed this is not a common behaviour judging from the excitement in our guide’s voice. Either that or like yours truly, thinks it is an absolute stunner of the bird. And I am not saying this because it is a lifer. Just look at the wickedly long tail and bold markings on its upperparts. If this cannot get you excited, I do not know what will.

A Little Cormorant sunning itself would have received more attention from me if this species had not colonized and multiplied in my country in recent years.

The Bronze-winged Jacana has also amended its rare status in Peninsular Malaysia but not as significantly as the Little Cormorant. This attractive water bird is doing much better here in Thailand and this locality was no different. The presence of drab juvenile birds indicated another successful breeding season.

A striking adult bird that was a little more tolerant to our presence than the rest allowed a photo to be included in this post.

I could not help but to notice several soaring raptors in the vicinity. A habitat like this could produce notable species but the only one recorded was the Black Kite. It was not the only migrant that was conspicuous in this vast open landscape. Black Drongos were also present in big numbers which is not unusual as it should be as common here as in Peninsular Malaysia. One confiding individual provided a decent capture due to its close proximity. Photographing a black bird at a distance under harsh lighting can be a challenge.

The company that you have during birding trips also plays a vital role in determining the success of the outcome. Nigel and Kok Siong are both great companions and I have also known Nigel for a long time. This paragraph is my way of thanking them for having me on this trip and being a part in this fantastic chapter of my birding life. And that concludes our birding adventures in central Thailand. The Penang birder signing out for now.

Checklist of birds recorded:

1. Ban Ngoi

2. Pak Phli

Home of wildlife - Part 1

 

Khao Yai National Park is a pristine landscape that provides sanctuary to countless species of flora and fauna. I knew about this park even before I started birding. Naturally, I was excited for my maiden visit and what it has in store for me. We were just minutes from the main entrance when our guide did a detour. We stopped just outside the borders of the park because that particular locality is a known birding hotspot. As always, have faith in your guide. True enough, the diagnostic wing beats of a hornbill echoed across the vicinity and very few things in life can rival the emotional whirlwind caused by coming face to face with a Great Hornbill first thing in the morning.

I have been birding a long time and through the decades, I have come across a number of truly remarkable species. And believe me when I tell you this behemoth of a bird deserves a place right up there among the best. And it has been too long since I last saw one in the wild.

The smaller Oriental Pied Hornbills were also recorded in vicinity. Naturally, they were overshadowed by their bigger relative. And I only began to take notice of this male once the Great Hornbill was gone.

Another species that I cannot help but to take notice are the Red-breasted Parakeets. Apart from increasing my global life list, they occur here in exceptionally high numbers.  However, they seem to always perch on the tallest trees and good photographic opportunities were hard to come by.

Parakeets are also known to mate for life and this pair certainly appeared to be in the loving mood judging from their public display of affection.

Eventually I did find a lone male perched lower than the rest. It may not be the perfect shot but it will do.

This locality is also the domain of an impressive nocturnal predator and we were fortunate enough to be shown a roosting individual. This trip has been great so far when it comes to owls. This was the fourth species and I can confidently say the best although there are two more days before this Thai adventure ends. The Spot-bellied Eagle-Owl bears some resemblance to the Barred Eagle-Owl back home. But it is bigger and a lot more imposing. When it looks our way, I am grateful I do not form part of its diet.

The Spot-bellied Eagle-Owl alone was a good enough reason to delay our entry into the home of wildlife which is the tagline of the national park. Every bit of birding inevitably effects the lives of the birds that we birders revere. The goal is to keep our intrusion to a minimum. Not only for the sake of the birds but also to give to others a chance to enjoy what you have just experienced.

We spent roughly two day exploring Khao Yai National Park and the one of the first birds to greet our photographic intentions was the diminutive Collared Owlet. Ironically, every owl encounter so far in our trip took place in the daytime. But I for one, am not complaining.

Any habitat that houses hornbills should and must be conserved. The park authorities here are doing a great job and these winged rhinos are still able to roam freely (and safely) within its borders. A male Great Hornbill gorging on a fruiting tree just next to the access road is proof of that.

Resting comfortably in the canopy level of the forest was this male Wreathed Hornbill. The lighting was getting harsh by then and the bird was not exactly close. Still, it was a picture of bliss as we observed him preening and watching the world go by.

Another male was recorded during our exploration of the park. Although this species not be able to conjure up as much emotions as the Great Hornbill, the photographic opportunity provided was so much better.

One glance at the Black-crested Bulbuls found here and any Malaysian birder will notice the red throat that this subspecies possesses that is absent from the ones back home.

Whenever the opportunities present themselves, I would try to improve my images of these ‘red-throated’ Bulbuls.

Quite a number of Bulbuls require scrutiny to determine their identifications. This is pretty much the case for the Puff-throated Bulbul until I found out from my guide that the similar-looking Ochraceous Bulbul, a species I am very familiar with, does not occur here.

I guess sooner or later I have to man-up and write about these two particular species of Bulbuls that I encountered in central Thailand. There are four almost-identical Bulbul species that occur in this country. Luckily, the Olive and Buff-vented Bulbuls (which I have encountered both before) are restricted to the southern region. In Kaeng Krachan National Park, I tried my best to obtain a record shot of the Baker’s Bulbul but it got the better of me on every one of those few occasions our paths crossed. I fared much better in this national park and obtained what should be (after I have given my all in confirming the identification) Grey-eyed Bulbuls.

Fruiting trees are always a good place to stop for a look. We were fortunate to come across a few next to each at one of the camp grounds. Naturally, we spent a considerable amount of time here. And lucky we did. I had a brief encounter with the Golden-crested at the last national park we visited. This time, we had a pair and they stayed considerably longer. By the way, a pair of Common Hill Mynas also alighted on the same tree but they were out of the picture - naturally.

Although not exactly ‘feather-counting’ quality, I obtained the improvement shots I so badly wanted. There is this occasional occurrence in birding when once you finally unblocked a species that you have been trying to do so for many years, it will no longer be as difficult anymore. My second Golden-crested Myna in four days - unbelievable.

Here is an image of the female which finally received my attention when the male moved further away.

The fruiting tree also attracted three species of barbets and all of them new to me. The Green-eared Barbet is probably the most confiding and when any member of this family of birds performs well, one must take full advantage of it. Lord knows barbets can be difficult to photograph due to their preference for the highest canopies.

The plumage coloration of the Green-eared Barbet may not be as striking as some of the others but being new to me is novelty that surpasses beauty.

Because of the recent split, the Blue-eared Barbet was replaced in my life list by the Black-eared Barbet. There was not much reason to celebrate when the Blue-eared Barbet was re-entered back into my life list here in Thailand. Perhaps it was the least interesting to me and I did not put much effort in obtaining a photograph. The Moustached Barbet, on the other hand, had my full attention. The availability of food also made it forgo its natural instincts and provided excellent views which was a true blessing. And emotions certainly ran high for us at the fruiting trees...

In Southeast Asia, there are very few species that can rival Hanging-Parrots in terms of cuteness. Past experiences with the Blue-crowned Hanging-Parrot back home have taught me that they are not exactly easy to photograph. In this neck of the woods, the Vernal Hanging-Parrot replaces it and we were delighted to find a small flock patronizing one of the fruiting trees. I could not help but to feel a little disappointed because I think they were all females or immatures and none of them had a red bill.

It was the same outcome when we encountered these parrots again suggesting it was the same flock. One of the birds ventured exceptionally low, upside down and looking simply adorable. And the disappointment gradually faded away.

Then I caught sight of a single bird resting a little further from the flock. Unless my eyes (and camera) betrayed me, it had a significantly redder bill. But the blue tinge on throat does not give me enough confidence to call it a male.

I think it is safe to say that the Black Giant Squirrels in both the national parks we have been to are exceptionally confiding by nature. With fruiting trees as an enticement, one can almost reach out and touch them on the tail.

The Finlayson’s Squirrel is another stunning species drawn to the fruits and capturing a few images was and including it in my post was the least I could do. One thing that I noticed here is there are not as many birders present when compared to Kaeng Krachan National Park. Even at the fruiting tree we basically had the place to ourselves.

To be continued…