Northward bound

 

The alarm went off at four in the morning. I do not recall it being this difficult to drag myself out of bed at this hour. Another sign of old age perhaps. By the time I don my usual drab-coloured birding attire, anticipation took over the reins. The tiny but fascinating state of Perlis awaits and this seduced my senses with the possibilities of encountering some far from common species. Up here at the northern tip of the peninsular, the climate is usually dry with sunny blue skies. And the cloud formations further enhanced the appeal of the scrublands surrounding Timah Tasoh Lake.

The odd vocalization of the Racket-tailed Treepies instantly took my breath away as this species is one of my targets for the trip. However, only glimpses of the bird with its distinct spatula shaped tail were provided today and that was a bitter pill to swallow. The Orange-breasted Pigeons, another speciality here, did not fare any much better. By mid morning, it looked like it was going to be one of those days when your love for birding will truly be tested. And a preening Streak-eared Bulbul in a position that normally will not be given the time of day, inevitably had my undivided attention.

Perched at the top of a tree stump, a Great Myna proclaimed its territory overlooking a cow shed. As the name implies, it is a proud-looking bird with the dark iris and wicked crest. To an undiscerning layman, it probably looks like any other myna. If memory serves me right, the Great Myna has been upgraded to a natural occurring species in Peninsular Malaysia and that only intensified my captivation for the species.

The Perlis State Park was the next destination and for that we cut across the hilly and beautiful countryside of Wang Kelian. Here, we were scrutinizing bulbuls for one particular species. One which we did not even know occurred within our Malaysian borders until a few years back. Identifying the Olive Bulbul is no walk in the park and neither is photographing them judging from my substandard images despite the prolonged encounter.

Due to time constraints, we did not venture into Perlis State Park proper. Instead, we explored the surrounding vicinity. With lady luck still shying away from us, the results were disappointing. A somewhat confiding Yellow-browed Warbler was the only species I have to show in the end. My best photographic effort of this uncommon migrant may not be an envy of others but the amount of effort required to obtain the image made it a keeper.

Although butterflies are not birds’ equal, they do come close. This striking species is certainly new to me. Regardless of its true identity and status, I was drawn to the iridescent splendour it exhibits. My fascination lasted till it floated away with the butterfly deep into the forest of the park.

We made one last stop which was at the vast agricultural lands of Chuping before calling it a day. It is sad to find this once haven for birding in its present condition. My last visit almost a year ago was a successful twitch for a Malaysian lifer. Today, all that greeted us was an out-of-place hotel, Instaworthy fields of Kenaf blooms and a ridiculous container park destined to be another white elephant project. A juvenile Pied Harrier reminded us just how amazing Chuping used to be. I fear the days when harriers and other raptors serenaded this locality in good numbers with their majestic presence are gone. As my fellow humans strike the final nail in the coffin for the demise of yet another birding location, my thoughts drifted back to the remarkable birding experiences I enjoyed here in the distant past.

Winged Orca...

I took Tom out on two birding excursions last year and the birds must have made quite an impression on him because I receive an email from this American birder again enquiring about a third trip. There is only one problem. He is a very experienced birder with several trips to this region including the ones to Penang. It will be quite a task to keep his third visit interesting and the torrential rain forecasted for that day did not help lessen my burden one bit. He has a preference for forest birds and naturally, we found ourselves at the best forest site you can find around Penang at the break of dawn – the Sungai Sedim Recreational Forest in Kedah. The first bird to greet us was a male Grey-rumped Treeswift getting ready for the day ahead together with dozens of his compatriots at the ‘Treeswift Tree’.

As we were making our way up the Gunung Bintang access trail, the warm rays of the sun slipped through the rain-drenched foliage of the forest. A sunny morning is a rare sight this week and it was a much welcomed change. The cheerful call of the Grey-headed Babblers echoed through the forest undergrowth followed by a brief appearance. And my guest celebrated his first lifer of the trip.

Despite the good weather, things were rather slow at Sungai Sedim. The overnight downpour could be the reason behind this. However, a second lifer for my guest flew into view and it was a juvenile Red-naped Trogon. There was not much opportunities for photography during the encounter but at least we managed to obtain a record shot. It was more than I can say about a handsome adult male that decided to show himself later. Looks like Murphy is back in town again…

A change of location might change our fortune just like what it did for my last excursion. It was certainly worth a try. At the car park just before we reach our vehicle, a Malayan Birdwing floating about a flowering plant prolonged our stay at this recreational forest. It was an impressive male, told by the yellow marking on his upperparts, and he did not take much notice of our presence. Just in case you are wondering, you can find out just about everything nowadays as long as you ask Goggle nicely and I still know squat about moths and butterflies. I guess the absence of feathers makes a whole lot of difference for me. But species like the Malayan Birdwing when seen up close, the intensity of the colours and intricacy of the patterns can be mesmerizing.

We made our way to the paddy planting district of mainland Penang as open country birds and waterfowls do not shun away during the hottest time of the day and that made it the best location to visit. There were quite a number of recently ploughed areas. The combination of shallow water and mud is like a magnet for water birds and birders alike. The Grey-headed Lapwing is new to neither of us but this attractive wader still received its due admiration. About 50 birds were present throughout the vicinity but are difficult to approach as always - even by car.

Apparently, the Wood Sandpiper is a rarity in America which is definitely not the case here in Malaysia. It is probably the commonest wader in freshwater habitats and paddy fields like these are its preferred wintering ground. I guess it was a little puzzled as to why these birders are showing it so much love...

This young female Brown Shrike was exceptionally confiding and could well be a recent arrival. The steel post that she chose to be her vantage point may not compliment the photo much but that is how it is sometimes. Anyway, she was too busy hunting for food to be bothered by our presence and we decided to spend a little more time with this common migrant. 

Eventually, something on the ground caught her eye and it was a grasshopper. The kill was quick and deadly. My gear could not keep up with the action. By the time I finally muster a shot, the prey was well within her digestive system.

From the paddy fields, we headed towards Air Hitam Dalam which was to be the final destination of the day. The ambassadors of the site, the Mangrove Blue Flycatcher, gave a warm welcome to my American guest. He remembered this species well from his previous trip with me. The flycatchers here have a tendency for that.

Mother Nature’s version of the Thinker. A Long-tailed Macaque in deep thought...

Call me paranoid but there is always a cause of concern when I see something like this spring at one of my favourite birding haunts. If it is one of those build and then left to rot facilities, so be it. But if they are planning to upgrade the place or something else, then I will be very concern. But I do sincerely hope that for once, they do not fuck things up and kill off another great birding location.

A big flock of 30 Black Kites circling the sky above the swamp forest was quite a sight and naturally caught our attention. These migratory raptors are just back from their wintering grounds up north and are enjoying the commencement of their annual tropical holiday. Little did they know that their fun in the sun was about to come to an abrupt stop and the threat came from an unlikely source – a juvenile White-bellied Sea-Eagle. You can see the eagle at the bottom left of the photo, stalking the flock. I was not expecting anything from it initially and from the looks of it, neither did the kites.

I have always considered the majestic White-bellied Sea-eagle to be a gentle giant that is often harrassed by smaller birds. Well, there is nothing gentle about the intentions of this juvenile. It was almost sinister. The black and white colouration and predatory movements somehow reminded me of the deadly Orca closing in on a school of dolphins. I was transfixed on the big raptor and eagerly waited for the spectacle to unfold. One thing is for sure, I will never see the White-bellied Sea-eagle in the same light again.

It was bright and sunny and that was good thing. In this condition, I managed to capture some of the action shots reasonably well. The kites were too agile for the eagle to do any real harm to them. It appeared like the presence of this big flock of kites did not go down well with the eagle and the latter was just venting out its anger. The eagle chased after several individual. It would twist and turn after the kites but was unable to make any physical contact throughout the entire episode. The Black Kites winter here annually in big numbers and the White-bellied Sea-eagle, a permanent resident. These two species have crossed paths many times before. I just cannot figure out what triggered this violent behaviour from the eagle. Well whatever the reason may be, it was a memorable experience.

When the eagle has had enough, it flew off to a nearby tree to rest. Feathers were ruffled but peace was finally restored. And the graceful kites flew about in leisure once again but in smaller numbers. I guess the eagle somewhat got its way in the end.

Being the smallest raptor in the world does not come without its bad points and frame filling shots of the Black-thighed Falconet remains a privilege most bird photographers have yet to enjoy.

On the way out of Air Hitam Dalam, we came across a flock of resting Asian Openbills on some isolated trees in the middle of the paddy fields. Although I have seen them in bigger flocks, the numbers here were sufficient to capture the interest of my guest. It was a relief to see these storks frequenting back at their usual spots and this encounter was a great way to end another rewarding birding excursion in this part of Peninsular Malaysia.

New Year Blues...(01/01/2016)

The dawn of a new year was fast approaching. I have cramped myself uncomfortably among the nooks of a coastal rocky outcrop to hide my human form as best as I could. Beyond the outcrop, mudflats as far as the eye could see. However, I am here in this bleak environment along the north-western coastline of mainland Penang on my own free will. Somewhere out there is a first record for Malaysia and I have been looking forward to this for the past few days. At first light, I ushered in the first day of the year in the company of 10,000 waders and it is a true privilege to be able to witness such a breathtaking sight in my home state of Penang. And just in case anyone from the local authourities is reading this, if this is not an Important Bird Area (IBA) worth conserving, I swear to God I do not know what is.

However, the spectacle of such a high concentration of these fascinating birds could not hold my attention for long. Soon, I was scanning the surroundings for gulls and my heart skipped a beat when I found the first flock at the edge of the tide. Hor Kee found Malaysia's first Slender-billed Gull a few days ago and that is the sole reason for my visit here. After a couple of hours, Brown-headed Gulls were all that I had. The Slender-billed Gull is not that easy to distinguish from the commoner Brown-headed Gull to begin with. But I have scrutinised the gulls present today well enough to admit that the new year is not off to a very good start.

The descending tide did not provide comfort as well and the waders foraged further and further away from the shoreline. With about an hour's birding remaining in my New Year Day celebration schedule, I decided to make a bee line to my favourite local patch at Air Hitam Dalam. I could certainly use a little spiritual replenishment from this birding hotspot. My New Year morning birding excursions are usually a time to relax and reflect on life but not this time. It was just a whole lot of eye straining, anxiety and swearing. However, a Crow-billed Drongo on an exposed perch in good light set things right again. It may not be able to completely erase the earlier disappointment with the gull but it was an exciting encounter nevertheless. I wondered how even a 'black' bird like this drongo is able to stimulate my senses. And I could not find any good answers except for the fact that I love birds. Being able to observe and photograph these wonders of nature has always been my true passion in life. The birding world here is not quite the same as it was when I first started but so long as there are havens like Air Hitam Dalam and the birds continue to inspire and amaze, I will always be able to find my sanctuary.

A big flock of Ashy Minivets were seen combing the canopy levels for insects and other forms of prey but they were moving at such a vigorous pace making photography very challenging. The dense vegetation that the Minivets seemed favourable of was another setback. 

Perched unobtrusively at the mid-canopy level, this Indian Cuckoo would have gone unnoticed had I have been less vigilant. Cuckoos usually betray their own presence with their persistent calls and the same applies to this species. However, the ones found at this locality are winter visitors and tend to be silent throughout their stay at this tropical retreat.

I have a keen interest in all kinds of wildlife and although on a lesser scale for butterflies, a confiding one will usually get my attention especially when I am taking a breather in between birding. It is not as brilliantly-coloured as some of the other species but it does make a nice addition to my database of insect photographs. It is always good to broaden one's horizon, right?

The lone female Tickell's Blue Flycatcher of Air Hitam Dalam was her usual confiding self as she rested among the undergrowth. The dim lighting (and my photographic gear) may have robbed her of some of her vibrancy but she is still as captivating as ever.

Her companion, a handsome male Mangrove Blue Flycatcher (it's complicated), posed ever so invitingly on a better-lit section of the undergrowth. These flycatchers have played a significant role in my birding tours throughout the year and it is only right that I let them wrapped up this short excursion this time. Dipping out on the Slender-billed Gull was a bitter pill to swallow but luckily, it lost its grip on me by the time I reached home. And I was able to be good company to my better half for the second half of my New Year Day celebration schedule. 

Oh, what a bill! (16/05/2015)

I woke up to the sound of the alarm on my iPhone and the rhythm of the falling rain on the roof. I was in a solemn mood as I contemplated on the fate of my birding plans for today. By the time I got myself ready, the rain almost dwindled to a stop and the dawn chorus started to fill the surrounding areas of my humble abode. Although the chorus consisted mostly of the bubbly calls of the ever-common Yellow-vented Bulbuls, it was music to my ears and all the motivation I needed to head out the door for my next birding adventure. The hilly forest of Sungai Sedim in Kedah was the choice location this time and it was a beautiful morning there unlike the gloom weather back home in Penang.

A handsome male Rufous-winged Philentoma was busy establishing his territory from the lower storey of the forest with his mournful disyllabic whistle. As confiding as he may be, the poor lighting condition was simply too much for my gear to overcome and I had to settle for these slightly mediocre images.  

Before I started bird photography, I would be absolutely delighted to be able to record three species of Trogons on a single trip. A female Red-naped Trogon provided flitting glimpses as she moved along the canopy level but I did not have the chance to even focus my camera on her. This female Scarlet-rumped Trogon, on the other hand, was sitting still for a prolonged period of time but there was only a narrow gap among the foliage to photograph her.

It was an all-ladies affair for the trogons as the third and final species was also a female. The female Diard's Trogon is one of the most striking of all the female Trogons. She was calling from deep within the forest when our paths crossed. Almost at eye level, it would have been a reasonably good shot if she was just a little closer. None of the trogon images today were good enough by any standard and I cannot help but to feel a little disappointed.

The Orange-backed Woodpecker is probably the largest woodpecker you will get to encounter here at Sungai Sedim. The male of this species is also one of the most vibrantly coloured woodpeckers in Malaysia. Usually vocal by nature, this woodpecker is conspicuous whenever it is present. However, good photographic opportunities are not easy to come by. Take this male for example. He stopped just long enough for me to take a single shot before he disappeared back into the forest.

Apart from game birds, only two other birds actually walk on the forest floor in Malaysia. One is of course the enigmatic Malaysian Rail-babbler and the other, the Black-capped Babbler. The former is on my list of birds that I need to shoot before my time on Earth is done but no such luck today. It was the latter and it is nevertheless, a bird that I would love to shoot as well. I anticipated the path that the bird will take and waited at a slightly more open area of the undergrowth. However, instead of the babbler, this butterfly came along and happily alighted not too far from where I was lying in wait.

One of the most widespread and adaptable birds in Malaysia is the White-rumped Munia. Its habitat ranges from the paddy fields of the lowlands to the primary forests of the mountains. With such an impressive range of habitats, it comes as no surprise that the population of this little seed-eater is doing well. This lone individual was foraging on a small tree as I was making my way back to the car park. It was already midday and I was drenched to the bone in my own sweat and dripping blood from multiple leech bites on my legs. I guessed I had enough of birding along forested trails for the day.

With the weather still holding well, I decided to do some afternoon birding at Air Hitam Dalam in mainland Penang. This locality is now probably the hottest spot for bird photography. Even at this hour, I was greeted by a few birding friends at the car park area. I did not linger at the car park though. I wanted to see if anything was about from the stretch of elevated boardwalk that cuts through the swamp forest. To come across a confiding Black-and-red Broadbill just beyond the boardwalk was more than I could ever wish for. In birding, sometimes wishes do come true…

Unlike my previous encounter, it seemed like the broadbill was not going anywhere soon. And neither was I, naturally. It foraged, preened and danced among the foliage of a particular group of trees in the vicinity. As for me, I made myself comfortable and soak in the moment. And of course, took as many photos that this amazing and adorable creature would allow me to.

The two-toned bill of this species is really something else. Just look at it. It is turquoise on the top and yellow on the bottom. All the other broadbills have one-toned bills. There is no other bird in Malaysia that has a bill like that. The very first time I saw the Black-and-red Broadbill, it was along the lower slopes of Cameron Highlands. Only part of the head was visible but one good look at the bill and its identity was revealed.

The lighting conditions put my gear and my photo-taking abilities to the test. The dense foliage was another major hindrance as most of the time, the broadbill was slightly obstructed. But an up close and personal encounter like this is somewhat of a novelty to me. So, almost the entire afternoon was dedicated to the broadbill and it was time well-spent indeed.

A male Ashy Tailorbird did wander close to where I was observing the broadbill. By then it has been more than an hour and I could managed to drag myself away from the latter and shower the tailorbird with some attention.

This is a picture of true bliss and contentment. A Collared Kingfisher indulging in a late afternoon sunbath.

A walk along the river trail produced nothing much but this flying shot of the resident Brahminy Kite. This common but striking raptor wrapped things up for this time and it was another rewarding excursion courtesy of a couple hours of sheer birding pleasure with a confiding broadbill at my favourite site in Penang.