Hornbill heaven

It has been nearly three months since I last had the fresh countryside air passed through my lungs. As I made my approach with two like-minded birding companions to a forest reserve  in Kedah State, I inhaled deeply to savour the moment. With the COVID-19 pandemic lockdown finally coming to an end, we were able to travel interstate again and the forest sites here in Kedah are far more rewarding than the ones in my home state of Penang. We timed our arrival to coincide with the breaking of dawn. As the mist lifted, the dawn chorus started to fill the vicinity.

Initially, the call was faint and not its signature territorial call. But it was definitely a Helmeted Hornbill – the most amazing hornbill species here in Malaysia and perhaps, even the world. Sadly, it is also one of the rarest. The Helmeted Hornbill has a territorial call like no other but the call does not echo throughout tropical rainforests as often as it used to. We desperately scanned the distant forest canopy for a glimmer of hope. And then, the mist that lingered just above the trees parted to reveal a Helmeted Hornbill in all its glory. It turned out to a female told by the pale throat and she powered across the skyline with her beautiful long tail in toll. It has been years since my last sighting of a Helmeted Hornbill and only heaven knows when I will be given the privilege again. This majestic bird has been hunted to near extinction because it is the only hornbill with a solid casque and this avian “ivory” has a value no poacher can resist. I think I speak for all birders that the sight of a Helmeted Hornbill living free in the wild is beyond any material value.

A pair of Common Hill-Mynas was getting ready to start off the day as well. This is another bird that is in demand in the bird trade. Its charming character and the ability to mimic sounds including human speech is the cause of its downfall. However, it is not endangered like the Helmeted Hornbill and remains relatively common in suitable habitats.

Patches of long grass next to the access road that runs across the forest reserve is refuge to the Rufescent Prinias and their vocal nature makes these warblers conspicuous. One was belting out its territorial call from a lofty perch to enhance its audible reach and it certainly reached our ears.

I did not manage to take as many photos as I had anticipated. Do not get me wrong. The forest was teeming with birds. It is just the lack of good photographic opportunities. Chestnut-necklaced Partridge, Crested Shrikejay and Hooded Pitta are always good records for any birding excursion. And to walk through the forest here again after such a long time was uplifting to say the least.

A pair of Oriental Pied Hornbills was showing their offspring the ways of the world when I crossed path with the family. The young one, as usual, was much more confiding (or should it be naive) and provided time for me to obtain a record shot. Today has been exceptional for hornbills. Great Hornbills, White-crowned Hornbills, a flock of 10 Plain-pouched Hornbills and the fantastic encounter with the Helmeted Hornbill at first light made it 5 species from a single locality.

The Mountain Imperial Pigeon can wander far and wide in search of food. Mostly found in higher elevations, it is not rare to see this stunning pigeon at this low elevation as well.

One of the commonest woodpeckers here is the Banded Woodpecker. Typical of woodpeckers, it is a striking bird despite its status. However, the distance and lighting offered no assistance to help prove my point.

At the edge of the lake, a Black-winged Kite was perched elegantly against a stunning blue backdrop and it was a mesmerizing sight. I cannot recall having seen this raptor here before but it is a welcomed addition to my ever-growing checklist of the birds of Kedah State. 

Wild boars do not normally stand their ground and stare back at you. This one did and I know better than to try to find out the reason behind this bold behaviour for it can be a dangerous one if it wanted to. It is also the only big mammal that can still be regularly encountered in Peninsular Malaysia.

Next on today’s agenda is a twitch for a Malaysian first record. You would normally think I would have done the twitching mission in the morning to increase my success rate. Well to be begin with, the twitch took me to, of all places, the semi-open air ticketing building at Kuala Perlis for the ferry shuttle to Langkawi. Time was also no longer an issue as you are more or less guaranteed of not dipping out. A group of birders from Penang while waiting to board their ferry came across some strange-looking sparrows before the lockdown and they turned out be House Sparrows – a species that has been expected to turn up in Malaysia eventually. Anyway, the Records Committee accepted these House Sparrows as genuine colonizers and that made them ‘tickable’ for my Malaysian life list. 

As soon as our group entered the building with birding gears and all, we drew the usual stares from the locals. The House Sparrows are known to roost along the structural beams of the building but all we could find were Java Sparrows. These gorgeous sparrows were also recorded by the birders on the day they discovered the ‘rarity’. So, their presence came as no surprise. But their numbers certainly were. Their origin may be in question but the Java Sparrows are settling in very well here.

I thought our twitch for Malaysia’s first House Sparrows would be a short and easy one. However, we could not find a single one within the building. Although the Eurasian Tree Sparrow is a different species altogether, the age-old saying of birds of a feather flock together might still be applied here. I then decided to scrutinize the flocks of Eurasian Tree Sparrows foraging next to the building and it worked like a charm. Almost immediate, I spotted my Malaysian lifer on a grassy patch together with a few Eurasian Tree Sparrows.

The House Sparrow is not new to me. I have recorded it during my visit to Cambodia. Now that I have obtained a record shot, I should be on my way to the next location but I could not. I wanted to spend more time observing this male House Sparrow. Chances are I will not make another trip all the way here for it again. It was relatively easy to follow his movement and I managed to obtain better images while doing so.

I have been to this ferry terminal twice before. I knew there were Eurasian Tree Sparrows present which is typical of built-up areas like this. The question is did I overlooked the House Sparrows then? Being almost the same size and colouration as the Eurasian Tree Sparrow, it is highly possible. This locality is not exactly a place frequented by birders and the birds could have gone unnoticed for a long time.

Once the first House Sparrow revealed itself, we started recording more of its kin. At least 10 birds were seen at the end of it all and some are back to resting along the beams of the building where they were supposed to be in the first place.

A pair of Common Mynas trying to figure out what the fuss is all about...

Our next and last destination took us to the paddy fields just outside the Alor Setar Airport. Last season, a pair of Black Bitterns decided to breed among the patches of dense vegetation and we were hoping to catch them here again.

Unfortunately we did not manage to locate these sleek water birds. And in their stead, a few Yellow Bitterns provided the highlight of our visit here.

One individual was an absolute cracker as it was sporting a full breeding plumage. I assumed it is a male because he was quite a showboat and frequently launched himself after other Yellow Bitterns as part of nuptial displays or territorial disputes.

All bitterns rely heavily on blending into the surroundings as their main form of defence. And facing their threat straight with their head tilted upwards usually strengthens their effort to remain undetected. Not this time though ‘cos I can still see you, bud...

One Pond-Heron was finding it hard to leave our warm Malaysian hospitality and still lingered around instead of making its way back up north to breed.

Unlike most paddy fields in the state of Kedah, there were relatively few Asian Openbills present. Maybe it is just a coincidence. Anyway, this once rare stork wrapped things up for my first interstate birding in months. My country’s fight to overcome this virus may well be ending soon but the pandemic left a devastating aftermath. Some have lost loved ones. Others, their source of income. That struggle, is far from over. I would love to say that I am not affected by the economic crisis we now face. However, I will taking things one day at a time and be thankful for what I have been given.

The day of the marten

I was back at the forest of Sungai Sedim in Kedah state after a considerable lapse. My guests this time are from America and the birds that call this recreational forest home gave them a warm welcome. However, photographic opportunities were almost missing. Good thing was this father and son team are birders by nature and the lack of photos did not seem to damper their spirits. Red-naped Trogons, Grey-headed Babblers and Maroon Woodpeckers teased the group of birders from the dense foliage of this fertile environment. Bird waves brought in fascinating species like Spotted Fantails, Flycatcher-Shrikes and the Great Iora. I guess it would be unfair to the birds here if I call this a slow morning just because my photography gear remained slung over my shoulder most of the time.

The characteristic territorial calls of the Red-bearded Bee-eater rarely go unnoticed. It took some time to locate this gem of a bird but it was worth the effort. Perched at the highest level of the forest canopy, it was unfortunately a little far for any decent images. But the prolonged encounter and the way the Red-bearded Bee-eater showed off every bit of its feathery splendour was certainly one of the highlights of the day.

When it comes to birding, there is no sure thing. The mangroves of Sungai Batu is where my guests will usually put their cameras to good use especially in the presence of the star bird. But I was dealt an agonizing blow when the usually confiding Mangrove Pittas were no where to be seen. I had to put my game face on to hide my disappointment. The Abbott’s Babblers eventually gave my clients something to cheer about but it will take more to have the same effect on me.

The resident pair of Mangrove Blue Flycatchers was looking far from their best probably due to a recent conclusion of nesting duties. Their part in today’s itinerary was not unappreciated and the pair added much needed colours to our visit here.

Asian Openbills are now a part of the birding landscape here in the northern part of the peninsular and due to their size and tendency to congregate in numbers, these storks are hard to miss when present. They are usually found in paddy fields where their food source lurks. The sea of green with the occasional speckle of colours courtesy of wild flowers, often provide soothing backdrops for photographic efforts.

For my following birding excursion, the jungle of Bukit Wang was the decided destination. As with my last outing, this birding site was alive with bird calls. White-bellied and Maroon Woodpeckers, Banded and Rufous-collared Kingfishers and the Chestnut-necklaced Partridge filled the vicinity with their distinctive calls and momentarily transported me into a world of utter birding bliss. But only teasing glimpses were offered today which brought me back to the harsh reality of forest birding. I would be insane for constantly spending time in the forest if glimpses are all there is to it. Every now and then, a forest denizen reveals itself in its full splendour and these are the moments that makes forest birding so fulfilling. The penetrating territorial call was the first thing to catch my attention. Shortly later, I had a handsome male Orange-breasted Trogon in my viewfinder. I could not help but to find myself struggling to regain my composure as trogons are one of the most fascinating and spectacular birds that one can hope to encounter in the wild.

Ever since the discovery of the Olive Bulbul here in Malaysia, every Buff-vented Bulbul will be scrutinized especially here in the north. Well, on with the next...

Black-headed Bulbuls were the most conspicuous of this family of birds and today, I enjoyed a few good photographic opportunities. Common throughout suitable habitats, the Black-headed Bulbul is a regular in this forest reserve as well and its presence can still brightened up a birding day. It is a striking bird after all.

Even in the shadows of the forest understorey, the radiance of the Black-headed Bulbul cannot be denied.

To describe the Black-and-yellow Broadbill as adorable would be an understatement. Few birds comes close to the level of cuteness exhibited by this small but colourful feathered gem of the tropical rainforest. I came across a rather confiding pair foraging next to the access road and the male, told by his complete breast band, was the bolder of the two.

His mate is no less appealing which is not always the case when it comes to birds. Females often have to play fiddle when it comes to outer appearances. But not this girl and both birds received equal amount of attention and affection. Despite the harsh lighting at the time, the encounter was undoubtedly the main highlight of the day – for birds that is.

The lush landscape here does not only house members of the avian family. Mammals also find sanctuary here and this isolated road surprisingly provided a non-birding moment that overshadowed every other significant sightings today.

Wild Boars can still be considered common here in Malaysia. In fact, it is the only large mammal that can be seen with regularity in this country. Normally, there is not much to be feared in the presence of this mammal. But an adult with young must be given its due respect. It was alone this time and the distance between us, gave it no reason to not to take its sweet time in crossing the road.

Bukit Wang was not quite done yet and it had one last surprise in store for me – the Yellow-throated Marten. This beautiful but elusive member of the weasel family was happily crossing the road when something stopped it in its track. It turned and stared straight at me. And I, slowly raised my camera for this record shot.

Do not be fooled by the adorable outlook of the Yellow-throated Marten for it is a ruthless and accomplished killer in its own right. However, it knows it is no match for the malevolent nature of the upright gaiting primate known as Man and evolution has taught it to be fearful of the mere sight of this species. The marten naturally bolted away leaving me no chance of an improvement shot.

But not before giving me one last look. Then a second Yellow-throated Marten scooted across the road and I think it is safe to assume that she was his mate. This trip to Bukit Wang was exceptional not because of the birding but the fact that a pair of mammals managed to outshine my beloved birds.

Hornbill Heaven

Hornbills are one of the most fascinating and majestic birds of the forest that naturally, have a very special place in my heart. With their massive stature and loud wing beats, hornbills in flight is a marvel of nature and I am always humbled by their presence.  So when Andrew invited me to be one of the guides for the upcoming Royal Belum International Hornbill Expedition (RBIHE) 2017, I accepted it in a heartbeat. The Royal Belum State Park houses all the 10 hornbill species that occur here in Malaysia and it is where you have a very good chance to see the migratory Plain-pouched Hornbills at this time of the year. Flocks of up to 3,000 birds have been recorded here before and that would certainly be a phenomenal sight.

There were about 40 participants for this year and the majority were international delegates from Asia. I timed myself to arrive at Pulau Banding early in the morning to enjoy some birding before the start of the expedition. The participants had to make their way from Kuala Lumpur and I had ample time to wander around this locality for the first time.

You know that you are truly in the wilds when the local rubbish dump (birders certainly know where to enjoy the best sceneries) is being patronized by wild boars instead of the usual stray cats and dogs.

I trekked into the only forest trail I could find and it was reasonably good with a variety of bulbuls leading the way. I did not have much opportunity to use my camera throughout the morning until I came upon a large clump of bamboo. There are a few species of birds found in Malaysia that have a penchant for bamboo vegetation. Its sweet whistling call was the first to catch my attention and it did not take long before I had a pair of Yellow-bellied Warblers in sight. I come across this species relatively often as it is found in one of my usual birding haunts but it seems to have a fetish for frustrating bird photographers there. Today however, one was belting out its territorial call from a surprisingly low perch and provided me with my best image to date.

With the noon hour fast approaching, I made a hasty retreat to the Pulau Banding Jetty to meet up with the rest of the participants whom are expected to arrive soon. But I was held back on the way by another common warbler that was performing well. The Rufescent Prinia replaces the common Yellow-bellied Prinia in forested areas and it is almost as abundant. Anyway, this particular individual was exceptionally confiding and I just could not break away from the encounter.

Feeling patriotic with Independence Day about a week away.

Pulau Banding Jetty – the gateway to hornbill heaven...

The Royal Belum State Park is one of the oldest forests in the world and it is certainly one of the wildest in Peninsular Malaysia. The lush landscape is frequently shrouded with mist and numerous partially submerged dead tree trunks can be seen artistically reaching towards the heavens. In short, it is breath taking. Very little has changed here since my first visit back in the 1994 during MNS Penang’s first exploration trip into this once restricted area and for that, I am most grateful.

The best way to get around this massive park is by boat. In fact, our accommodation for this expedition were houseboats. For a hard core birder like me, very little is required to make my stay comfortable. The boathouse actually has more facilities than to my liking. But that is me.

This is not the first time I stayed in a boat house. My first hornbill expedition to Royal Belum was back in 2003. Although I only managed to see 3 very distant Plain-pouched Hornbills flying across the sky at that time, it was still an experience. Being in a houseboat again after all these years brought back good memories. Here is a photo of a younger me taken during that expedition - overly enthusiastic, studded ears and all.

We anchored at Sungai Kenarong – our base camp for the next few days. And once you are so deep inside Royal Belum, the only time humans lift up their smartphones is take capture memories of this incredible place. For the next couple of days, it was just us and Mother Nature in all her glory.

Evidence of the presence of a much mightier mammal around base camp squashed any prior intentions for nocturnal excursions along the forest trails. Coming face to face with Asian Elephants in the night is not something anyone would fancy. However, a predawn stroll along the water’s edge produced a Buffy Fish-Owl hunting discreetly not far from our temporary aboard. I was not expecting much and left my camera in my room. As usual, exciting encounters will usually take place when you are ill-equipped to capture any images.

The second day was when we got to work. We were divided into small groups and boarded small speed boats to go further into the interiors of the park. I was assigned to lead the group consisting of delegates from India and Brunei. Having half a dozen enthusiastic birders with photographic gear on a shallow and light vessel may not seem to be a very good idea and it was the perfect way to cover more area and to literally chase after hornbills.

Sungai Kejar was the northern most point we ventured to and Sungai Tiang, the eastern most. The weather was perfect during the morning but in the late afternoon, the sky open up and drenched us to the bone. I found myself in one of the most uncomfortable situations in all my years of birding. Cold, battered and wet, we had to brace ourselves as our tiny boat met the torrential storm head on. And what lasted minutes felt like an eternity.

The participants of the RBIHE consisted of delegates from all walks of life but brought together by a mutual passion – their love for the natural world. Among them, one stood out. It was not because he was the only Caucasian but he was none other than Noah Strycker. For the benefit of those who are not familiar with the name, he was the birder who broke the world record last year for seeing the most number of bird species (6,042 species to be exact) within a calendar year. Now, you know.

The main target for the RBIHE was the nomadic Plain-pouched Hornbills. My group managed to record a total of 101 birds throughout the day. It was not an outstanding figure but definitely better than my last count here. Obtaining good photos here in Royal Belum was real hard work. The constant rocking of the boat and a few easily excited group members made it even more challenging. These are my best efforts of the Plain-pouched Hornbills and I am quite please with the results considering all the factors.

We hardly came across perched Plain-pouched Hornbills and on the rare occasions that we did, the birds were miles away...

A total of 9 species of hornbills were recorded during this RBIHE and the only one missing was the enigmatic White-crowned Hornbill. My group only managed 3 species – the ever present Oriental Pied Hornbills and this confiding male Black Hornbill. This was the closest we ever got to a hornbill during our stay here in Royal Belum. The Black Hornbill may not be as impressive as the other larger species but it is an amazing bird nevertheless.

Apart from hornbills, raptors were the only birds that I managed to capture. Their sheer size and preference for resting on exposed perches make them rather conspicuous indeed. Despite its name, the White-bellied Sea-Eagle can occur deep inland and here along the network of rivers and stream, this majestic raptor is a common sight.

The White-bellied Sea-Eagles share their home here with 2 smaller Fish-Eagles. The Lesser Fish-Eagle is the most encountered raptor during our expedition and I can safely assume that this is one of its major strongholds. However, it is a shy bird and often very difficult to approach. Did I mentioned that bird photography is tough here in Royal Belum?

A juvenile Lesser Fish-Eagle provided one of the highlights of the trip by being unbelievably confiding as it hunted for food. Perhaps due to its tender age, the eagle showed very little fear of our presence and I obtained some of my best images for the trip.

Slightly larger and similar looking is the Grey-headed Fish-Eagle. Throughout our time here, I only managed to see it a couple of times. As we were making our way out of Royal Belum on the final day of the RBIHE, we came across a lone bird resting on a dead tree. I have had little experience with this species in the field and the few minutes we had it in view as our boathouse cruise past was my best encounter with the Grey-headed Fish-Eagle so far.

From this angle, the photo turned out somewhat like a drawing. It was certainly not done intentionally. When it comes to birds that are uncommon to me, I usually do not take much notice of the background unless it is a glaring, bright sky.

To wrap things up for the RBIHE, a resident Peregrine Falcon proudly looks over its domain from a lofty perch. Peregrine Falcons are one of my favourite raptors and despite the distance, I still took the effort to try and obtain its image. I find that this photo captures the essence of this state park - wild, beautiful and mesmerizing. Hopefully, the hornbills of Royal Belum will continue to roam free and provide everlasting memories to all those who wander into this jungle domain of theirs.