Intriguing Land of Smiles

 

It has been more than two years since we last set foot on foreign soil and apart from donning face masks, boarding an plane out of Malaysia is pretty much the same as it used to be. A few hours later, we found ourselves in The Land of Smiles and our vacation in northern Thailand began. This was not a birding trip as I was with my better half and birds that I may encounter during our stay here in Chiang Rai and Chiang Mai would be a bonus. This part of the country is quite appealing and some of the views, spectacular. Needless to say, after what everyone has gone through, this little getaway was much anticipated. It has been a long time since I last saw that sparkle in her eyes and this trip certainly brought that out again.

Inevitably, I ended up shooting more typical images on this trip. But a short trip to the highest mountain in Thailand was part of our itinerary and my hopes for some decent birding lie with that highland retreat.

The first birding encounter of the trip took place right outside our hotel along one of the busiest parts of Chiang Rai town. A female White Wagtail was resting on the porch roof. It is a scarce migrant back home and was enough for me to tolerate all the stares of the locals as I tried my best to capture some images of this lovely bird.

Eventually I realized that the White Wagtail is relatively common here and a pair that I came across at the compound of the Chiang Rai’s renowned White Temple was exceptionally confiding as well. However, the pair was restless and time was a luxury I do not possess on this trip as we were part of a tour group.

The Great Myna is also common in northern Thailand but I did not put much effort into capturing its images. This species is spreading down to Peninsular Malaysia and I have had my share of encounters during excursions to Perlis state.

The Fah Lu Huang Garden at Doi Tung was another lush landscaped garden that we visited. The colours and beauty of all the flowers we encountered was much to my wife’s delight.

Me, on the other hand, struggled to obtain memorable birding experiences here. In the end, I had to settle with a couple of bulbuls. The Sooty-headed Bulbul does not occur in Peninsular Malaysia and naturally, had my undivided attention.

Although the Red-whiskered Bulbul is conspicuous with its vocal talents and wicked crest, photographic opportunities did not come easily.

There seems to be a preference to keep Mute Swans are ornamental birds here in northern Thailand and no less than two tourist destinations that we visited had these elegant water fowls as part of their attractions. I had a tough time explaining to the rest of the group why I am not spending more time photographing these domesticated swans...

The agricultural landscape at Singha Park certainly has potential and between the usual sightseeing activities, I managed to sneak off some for brief birding. On one occasion, I was caught red-handed while pursuing a Pied Bushchat at a patch of grassland.

My gut feeling proved to be right when I enjoyed what should be the bird of the trip. A stunning male Burmese Shrike was on the hunt and my lumbering intrusion did not seem to ruffle any feathers at all.

He was a creature of habit and returned to the same vantage point after each foray. The only issue was I was restricted to photographing him from this angle but it was undeniably a memorable experience.

Most lizards tend to blend in with their surroundings but I do not think the same can be said about the Blue Crested Lizard. Half the body, particularly the head region, looked as though this reptile has been dipped into a bucket of bright blue dye. I was transfixed on the lizard as it rested on a tree trunk and this lifer of another nature turned out to be one of the highlights of the trip.

The peak of Doi Inthanon is the highest point in Thailand and the 6°C temperature that greeted us upon our arrival makes it one of the coldest as well. And the views, should be up there among the best especially the alluring sea of clouds.

At the summit, I was given some time to wander around on my own. As expected, this locality was teeming with bird life and the time factor prevented me from truly appreciating all species that were present. I did not do much homework prior to the visit as not to raise too much expectations. However, I do know as a fact the stunning Mrs. Gould’s Sunbird calls this place home. A few sunbirds frolicking about a flowering tree had me sprinting down the access road until I reached the base of the tree. True enough, there was at least 3 Mrs. Gould’s Sunbirds present but the only one that finally made its way to my memory card was an immature male.

The Silver-eared Laughingthrush is a split from the Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrush complex just like the Malayan Laughingthrush back home. This lifer provided the best photographic opportunities for this highland excursion as the bird foraged for food confidingly close to a throng of tourist including yours truly.  

Harsh lighting and the active nature of a flock of Chestnut-tailed Minlas prevented me from including these adorable and striking birds into my photographic highlights for this visit to Doi Inthanon.

The distinct silhouette of a drongo resting on a tall tree persuaded me to put some effort in identifying the species. After further scrutiny, it turned out to be an Ashy Drongo. I am usually grateful for whatever I have been given but when I am in another country, a species that I can regularly encounter back home will not be able to evoke much emotions.

Northern Thailand is an intriguing place and the birds there even more so. This trip was nothing more than a teaser and if I have the chance, I would love to a have another one purely for birding. Some of the best moments from this vacation had nothing to do with birds. They were of my other passion in life which is making memories with the love of my life. And getting sprayed by the powerful Wachirathan Waterfall while getting our photo taken was certainly one such moment.

Back into the field...

 

After more than 180 days, I finally ventured out into field for some much needed birding. The government eased the travel restrictions between states and myself, fully vaccinated. The Air Hitam Dalam Educational Forest remained relatively the same since the last time I was here. However, there was one difference. I had to follow the new normal and donning a medical mask is very much be a part of everything I do nowadays - including birding.

A Crow-billed Drongo was shadowing the movements of a pair of Plaintain Squirrels attracted by the insects flushed by the mammals. Although the only image obtained during the encounter could not reflect the true beauty of the Crow-billed Drongo but to watch it hawk among the foliage of the riverine trees was a great start to the day.

I admit that my identification skills are not as sharp as they should be as they have not being put to use for a long time indeed. But no matter how long I have been kept away from birding, there is no mistaking a Green-billed Malkoha. When it swooped across the access road with its long tail trailing and all, it certainly made me realize how much I miss this unusual hobby of mine. And just before the cuckoo disappeared into the swamp forest, it was kind enough to leave me with more than just a memory.

Shortly after, a true test of my identification skills took place. Flitting about the foliage of the canopy level, a little brown job looked set to giving me a hard time. Initially, I struggled. Prominent wing markings tried to complicate my thoughts. Unexpectedly, the bird dropped down to a smaller tree and good were now available to me. And the identification of this juvenile Asian Brown Flycatcher, solved.

The Malaysian Pied-Flycatcher after having terrorizing the small insects in the vicinity decided to take a breather on a somewhat expose perch. One does not see this notoriously active bird stationary like this all that often and taking a moment to appreciate it was the least I could do.

A lone male Common Flameback created such a ruckus that it would it impossible to ignore. Come to think of it, with that striking plumage of his, it would still be impossible to ignore him even if he was as quiet as a church mouse.

Although I mostly derived inspiration from birds, this attractive flower has a certain appeal to it and it was enough to even distract my attention. Or maybe it is just because I have been cooped up indoors far too often of late.

As usual, the bubbly song of the Olive-winged Bulbuls filled the locality. I managed to catch one enjoying the rays of the morning sun nearby the elevated boardwalk. Rain has been a regular feature of late and the warmth would be inviting indeed. I guess we could both use a little sunshine in our lives now.

The heat of late morning began to soar and so did some of the raptors that were present here today. Sounding remarkably like a mewing cat, the Brahminy Kite reveals its presence with this distinctive call. The resident pair appeared shyer than usual and I knew better than to press on for better images.

Back from their breeding grounds up north, the Black Kites are once again soaring over the swamp forest and paddy fields of this birding haven. A fair number was recorded but they kept their distance most of the time. This slightly more confiding individual provided a close but brief display of aerial agility. Just enough to lift my spirit.

Asian Openbills also took advantage of the hot air thermal to move from one feeding area to another. These peculiar storks have very much settled down in this part of the state and their huge silhouettes traversing along the skyline are a common sight. I guess absence does make the heart grow fonder and I marveled at the Asian Openbill as though they were still the rare visitors of yesteryear.

One species that has always been a common winter visitor since the first day I took up birding is the Brown Shrike. Perched on top of a short tree, she (told by the barring on her underside) was probably scanning for potential prey. She was confiding and allowed me to shoot contently. That is until a couple of day trippers decided to stroll past with their MP3 player in toll. And people wonder why I am antisocial when birding...

Bright lighting certainly helps with photography but too much of a good thing can sometimes be the exact opposite. A female Plaintive Cuckoo resting in a low bush undoubtedly after a heavy meal was the last bird of the trip. Identification was anything but straightforward typical of female cuckoos. The harsh lighting and inevitable shadows compounded my frustration. But I packed up my gear a happy man. It is good to be back and hopefully, with more field trips to post in the days to come.

Dancing Egrets

 

It was looking to be another beautiful morning and since I had a couple of hours to spare, it would be a waste not to spend it out in the field. With limited choices available in my beloved island home, it was back to the Penang Botanic Gardens. Being a weekend morning, the crowd was inevitable. However, the spot that I usually frequent when I am at this popular recreational destination is somewhat off the beaten track so I could bird relatively undisturbed. Along the stream, I noticed two Little Egrets with a whole lot of interaction between them. To my untrained eyes, they appeared to be performing some mating dance as the Egrets moved in synchronize. Then things started turning hostile and dance, became dispute with one chasing off the other. In the end, there was no romance brewing here – just hostility.

The lone Striated Heron did not let all the commotion by the Egrets distract it from what it set out to do – acquiring breakfast.

Food also drew the resident White-throated Kingfisher from its usual lofty perch and provided me with a brief moment to capture its splendour at eye level.

A repertoire of musical notes started to fill the vicinity and it was the contribution of a pair of Oriental Magpie-Robins. I suppose these beautiful songsters have found their sanctuary here as bird trappers know better than to try their shit at a location constantly monitored by park personnel.

This next bird has a wide range of calls and even imitates. The territorial call is sometimes such a disarray of notes it makes it distinct. The bird itself is no less unique. The tail extends into a wire-like appearance ending with a racket shaped feather at each end. The Greater Racket-tailed Drongo may be a common species throughout the country but it is still an exceptional bird.

The migratory Asian Brown Flycatcher, on the other hand, is the exact opposite. Silent and dull, it would have gone unnoticed if not for its occasional sallies for insects. Birding at a local patch like this is usually a laidback affair and every bird present will receive some form of attention.

No visit to this landscaped garden is complete without encountering the Crested Mynas. A population has established itself well here and the Mynas hardly take any effort to conceal themselves from humans. Here is just one of the many Mynas that took to the lawns in search of food.

While observing the Mynas, a White-breasted Waterhen wandered into the vicinity in full view. To a certain degree, birds here are quite bold as they are accustomed to human presence. I pretended not to show too much interest and it worked like a charm. But once this photo was taken, my subject knew my true intention and gradually backed away.

Penang Island has the highest density of White-bellied Sea-Eagles and that is something that I can be proud of. Being an island, you can see White-bellied Se-Eagles from literally everywhere and this time, a juvenile soars effortlessly above the gardens. It was hot and sunny and this youngster was taking full advantage of the updraft.

Olive-backed Sunbirds are another common sight here. Although the male lacks some of the radiance of other species, he is still handsome fellow. And the dark orange border below the blue iridescent throat indicates he is a subspecies that occurs in the northern region.

A Brown Shrike that is yet to look prime for the coming breeding season up north was having a little sunbathe above a relatively busy walkway. Unperturbed by the all walkers below and a lone birder, it remained at the perch to be admired only by the latter.

This feisty winter visitor wrapped things up for this short excursion. Most of the species encountered today were the commoner ones but in the end, it does not really matter. It was certainly time well spent and for that, I am grateful.