The Ferruginous Fever

I was up well before dawn despite it being a long day of birding yesterday. Sleep did not come easy. The glowing plumage of the Ferruginous Partridge filled my night with lucid dreams. There is no doubt I have caught the ‘Ferruginous Fever’ and the cure, is to get the birds in the flesh. I know that I will not be alone in this quest. It is a Sunday morning after all and the pandemic has swept through the entire length of the country all way to neighbouring Singapore. A crowd is inevitable. But I have traveled too far for this partridge to develop a sudden case of agoraphobia. Like a man on a mission, I was determined to get my main target of the trip. A hide is a requirement and together with a dozen other birders and photographers, we prepped our gear and ourselves for the morning to come and God willing, Ferruginous Partridges in all their glory.

The first couple of hours was quite uneventful with only the commoner species to keep us company. A sense of worry started to take a hold of me. To miss out on the partridges two mornings in a row would certainly have dire consequences on my state of mind and overall wellbeing. My uncomfortable seating position in the hide was taking its toll on me also. But persistency as well as patience is a virtue in the world of birding. Time passed a little easier whenever the Ochraceous Bulbul decides to show itself. Just like yesterday, it can be confiding at times.

The family of Oriental Magpie-robins are regulars to this locality and the chick was still banking on its parents’ maternal instincts for a quick meal.

Whenever I see a Treeshrew now, I am instantly reminded of Scrat (the character from the Ice Age movie franchise). I guess I have Scrat to thank for keeping me occupied with its antics as I waited for the Ferruginous Partridges.

Another hour has passed and still no partridge. I was about to lose it when two male Mountain Peacock-pheasants decided to inject some life into this slow but beautiful morning. And I do not need any invites to start capturing this handsome endemic. It was probably the same two males from yesterday morning but I am not complaining. They still do it for me.

Not long after the males retreated back into the forest, a female pheasant show herself. For me, this is the first time I have seen a female here. And she was even more confiding than the males. That’s a good girl...

Right about then something orange moving about the undergrowth caught my eye. I held my breath. I knew what it was. And it was slowly edging closer. For the first in my life, I have a Ferruginous Partridge in full view and it was unimaginably striking. I will not attempt to describe the partridge. Just like illustrations and photos, it will not do the partridge any justice. Nothing beats seeing a species in the wild. The long drive, unsuccessful first attempt, crowded birding spaces, cramped sitting positions – all those do not matter anymore. All that mattered was here I am, enjoying one of the best looking partridges in Malaysia and loving every second it.

A second partridge revealed itself soon after. And then a third. Now, I was faced with a dilemma – which one to shoot first? The partridges were mostly on the move and that certainly did not help the situation. On this rare occasion, less could very well be more as I do not have to frantically capture as many shots as possible of all three birds.

At one time, I just put my camera down and soak in the view. Three beautiful Ferruginous Partridges were foraging in front of me and as far as I can tell, all of them were young adults. Naturally, I would have preferred adult birds with complete plumage but in life, we cannot always get what we want. I could have just as easily missed them like I did the day before. Nothing is a sure thing when it comes to observing and shooting wildlife. Come to think of it, nothing is a sure thing in life as well. So, be grateful what you have been given and cherish what you have.

And just like that, they vanished into the forest again. I thought the performance was over and so did everyone else. I could not have been more wrong. The partridges came back again and they appeared to be more confiding during the second session and came even closer to our hides. I guess my images also improved as I have gained back most of my composure and breath. My back and legs still ache but that is of no significant importance.

If a year ago someone would have told me that I will be able to capture these two remarkable birds in one frame and I would have asked that someone to have his head checked. Unbelievable as it may seem, it is happening now and many have been given the privilege to experience it.

This photo brought back memories of my one and only sighting this partridge prior to this encounter. I had to struggle and wait for years to be able to finally have a glimpse of the bird. I could not even muster a single shot then. I was elated just the same to be able see it and include it into my life list despite having to trek uphill for a few kilometers followed by strenuous stalking of my quarry along a forest trail.

Now, it is parading right out in the open and in good light. Life does not get any better than this. My birding adventure to central Peninsular Malaysia definitely ended on a high note. Pahang, with its vast expense of forest, still provides sanctuary to some truly fascinating birds. I still have dreams of the Ferruginous Partridge after the incredible encounter at Bukit Tinggi. Then I realized this fever is not something I recently contracted nor is it caused by the partridges. It is something that I have with me for the past two decades or so and it is the ‘birding bug’ for which there is, hopefully no cure.

Natural Born Models

I embarked on another birding adventure to central Peninsular Malaysia and it was back to the chilly montane air of Bukit Tinggi in Pahang. I was here back in March to experience the Mountain Peacock-pheasant phenomenon that has put this hill resort into the world birding map. This time, I was not after the endemic pheasant. This time, it was the resplendent Ferruginous Partridge. Gamebirds by nature are shy and elusive. And I thought my brief glimpse of the bird along the Gap Road in Fraser’s Hill will be as good as it will ever get for me. When news broke of a family of these partridges are showing well at the pheasants’ locality, it was only a matter of waiting for the right time for a revisit.

The Mountain Peacock-pheasants were the first to arrive and the two males put on a good performance. Although this is my second time with the pheasants here, my hands trembled with excitement as I followed their movement with my photographic gear. I guess it will take some getting used to.

How can anyone ever get used to being so close to these majestic creatures? Just look at him…

With my main target of the trip nowhere in sight, the other birds present were given their due attention. The Ochraceous Bulbul is not uncommon especially in montane forest. Its vocal nature tends to give it away quite easily whenever it is presence. However, it is not easy to photograph and a confiding individual should never be taken for granted.

In fact, the bulbul was a bit of a show off and it certainly received everyone’s attention. Yet again, I had to share the locality with other birders. It seemed like you can never be alone here – especially on weekends.

The Oriental Magpie-robin is certainly doing well in this hill resort. You can see this striking songster throughout the vicinity. A family was foraging at the pheasants’ locality and the fully fledged chick was just starting to find food on its own. Whenever the opportunity arises, it would still take full advantage of its parents’ maternal instincts and receive the handouts.

Making decisions is very much a part of life. Sometimes we make good decisions and sometimes, we make bad ones. And then there are times we make horrendous ones. With the disappointment of the partridges not showing clouding my judgement, I left Bukit Tinggi at mid-morning and headed towards Lanchang for my secondary targets of the trip only to find out later that the partridges came out an hour after my departure. All three of them. Well, you might as well kick me in the groin because that was how it felt like. Lanchang is also located in the state of Pahang too and it was about an hour’s drive from Bukit Tinggi. Unlike the later, it was hot and humid but none of that mattered when a Black-throated Babbler hopped into view at the stake out area. This babbler is not new to me but I have no opportunities to capture its images till now.

I spent a considerable amount of time observing, shooting and admiring the Ferruginous Babbler during my last visit to the forests of Taman Negara Sungai Relau but the bird has not lost its novelty with me. I still find it to be a delightful species with a large dose of character and beauty.

Another familiar species was the Yellow-bellied Bulbul. Like the Ferruginous Babbler, Taman Negara Sungai Relau provided plenty of quality time with this species as well. However, its presence did not evoke as much emotions. Maybe it is because it also occurs in good numbers in the forests of Kedah where I often find myself birding.

A screen has been put up to accommodate the high number of birders and photographers (individual hides would only take up more space) to the site. This location is probably the hottest birding spot in Peninsular Malaysia now.

The one species that stands out from the rest is the enigmatic Malaysian Rail-babbler and there are at least 2 individuals frequenting the area. The birds here have grown accustomed to human presence and that gives both birders and photographers a rare opportunity to enjoy them for prolonged periods of time.

The walking gait of the babbler reminiscences the catwalk of those slender-limbed female models as they showcase their beauty and sensuality through graceful and provocative movements of the body anatomy. This is Mother Nature’s version and unlike its human counterparts, no training is required. Well, you will not find me driving more than 400 kilometers just to ogle at female models in a fashion show. But as you can see, I would for this alluring species.

Before I could fully recover from the Malaysian Rail-babbler’s performance and regain my composure, a female Banded Pitta came into the picture. There are a small number of sexually dimorphic bird species here in Malaysia where the female is just as attractive. The Banded Pitta is certainly one of them and although she is not fully matured yet, she is absolutely gorgeous. What she lacks in colour is made up by the striking black and yellow stripes on her underside.

This is the second time this year that I have the privilege to spend time with this extraordinary species and for that I am most grateful. The light was slightly behind the Banded Pitta but it did not matter. I am satisfied with how the images turned out. The colours of the bird are so radiant that even the setting sun could not drown them out.

To wrap things up for my first day of birding in Pahang is a little rodent that I cannot be certain if I have it in my photographic database – the Low’s Squirrel. The disappointment with the Ferruginous Partridge was a bitter pill to show and I hope to make things right the next day. The outcome of day two will be covered in my next post.

One in the world (13/03/2016)

The anticipation of my second day of birding in central Peninsular Malaysia got me all worked up and I made my way downstairs full of zeal and excitement. Like the first morning, breakfast was all ready and waiting for me – courtesy of Foo’s wife, Connie. I must admit I was truly being pampered on this trip.  The drive to Bukit Tinggi in Pahang took slightly more than an hour but the winding journey was made shorter by Foo’s excellent driving and his awesome ride.

Bukit Tinggi is yet another tourist destination and is usually crowded on weekends like today. However through his connections, Foo managed to get us in way before the permitted entry time. This is the second time I have been to this hill resort but the first visit was a casual trip. Today, was a different story. I was on a mission and a remarkable gamebird was my target.

A short trek from the Botanical Gardens and we reached the spot where the renowned Mountain Peacock-Pheasants of Bukit Tinggi frequent. It looks like any ordinary patch of montane forest but the memories and experiences that birders far and wide obtained here are anything but ordinary. This pheasant is only found in the main range of Peninsular Malaysia and no where else in the world. Prior to the discovery of the pheasants here, this endemic has an almost mythical status. Elusive and scarce, it is rarely encountered in the field. I have seen it on two occasions in the past and they were only glimpses of its true splendour. It has been three years since the discovery and one of the reasons I chose to finally have a go at the pheasants now is to avoid a crowd when shooting. But fate would have it that I had to share the location with a group of half a dozen mainland Chinese birders and their local guide. They came shortly after we had settled down and waiting for my second target bird of the trip to start its performance. I may sound selfish and perhaps I am but I would very much preferred to enjoy my moment with the pheasants at total ease and solitude. Anyway, we did our best to accommodate the group.

A couple of hours later, a stream of continuous shutter clicks from the direction of my new found companions broke the silence. I knew that the pheasant has finally decided to show itself but from where we had positioned our hides, I could not see a thing. It is a good thing the pheasants here are accustomed to all this attention. Any other gamebird would have turned tail and disappear right back into the forest. Slowly, I could almost make out the shape of the pheasant foraging just behind the undergrowth. There was nothing I could do but wait. And it was one of the longest minutes I had to endure in my life. The intensity of the moment was unbelievable. If my heart were to beat any faster, I fear it would have broke through my rib cage. When this amazing creature finally showed itself completely to us, I took a few seconds to awe at this magnificent creature before commencing with the photo shoot.

It was a handsome male. The blue-green ocelli sparkled like jewels whenever they caught the few rays of the sun that have managed to pierce through the dense canopy. The chestnut colouration interwoven with intricate fine markings make this bird a true wonder of the natural world. Its near mythical status is no exaggeration. It is so beautiful that at times, it seemed unreal. It was like a secret passageway to a fantasy world was breached once upon a time allowing the Mountain Peacock-Pheasants to cross into our world and grace us with their poise and beauty for all eternity.

The mere presence of the pheasant drowned out everything else. The hide I was in became my own little private world and at that moment in time, it was just me and the pheasant. And all these astronomical feelings was the doings of a single male bird. Other birders have encountered pairs and even families of this pheasant here but I can only dream of such good fortune and privilege.

The whole encounter lasted about 5 minutes. During that time, the pheasant hardly stood still. The dim lighting offered very little reprieve for my modest photographic gear. The long tail that had me spell-bounded proved to be a double-edged sword as it was challenging to keep the entire bird in the frame. Naturally, I wanted more. The group left immediately after the performance. I decided to stay and wait for the pheasant to return.

While waiting, the other species present finally had my attention like this male Oriental Magpie Robin. For the second consecutive day, this species has appeared at my target birds’ location.

The Buff-breasted Babbler occurs in hilly forest and is not often seen as it tends to keep itself well hidden among the undergrowth. I have several failed attempts to obtain its image in the past. This confiding individual changed all that. In terms of appearance, there is not much I can elaborate on this non-descript species but that does not mean I did not relish the encounter. I finally managed to obtain some reasonably good images of this little brown job.

Active and small, it was a tough subject to photograph despite its confiding nature...

I was disappointed when the pheasant did not return after a couple of hours. On the other hand, that made the earlier encounter even more precious to me. As I was about to pack up, this Common Treeshrew scurried into view and was just asking to be photographed. Naturally, I obliged...

From Bukit Tinggi, we travelled to the adjacent hill of Genting Highlands. Well known for its casinos and theme parks, this hill resort is naturally another popular tourist destination. However, those attractions are of no concern to me. The Important Bird Area (IBA) of Awana along the lower slopes is. IBAs here in Malaysia are not given their due protection. Awana, as many other IBAs, is under threat by human activities. That is a real shame because it is certainly a very beautiful and a regular birding site for birders in this region including Foo.

The Collared Owlet here has performed well on numerous occasions in the past but not today. Today it was quite adamant of taunting us from the dense foliage of the forest canopy with its diagnostic calls. No amount of pleading will get it show itself and a flying Great Hornbill finally diverted our attention away.

A fruiting tree only yielded a pair of Fire-tufted Barbets. This species is undoubtedly the most impressive of all our barbets. The challenging lighting condition and the height of the tree robbed us of any great images despite the confiding nature of our subjects.

After such an exhilarating morning with the pheasant, it would take something truly spectacular to reignite my excitement. A small flycatcher hawking along the forest edge awakened my senses but after further scrutiny, it turned out to be only an Asian Brown Flycatcher – the commonest of our migratory flycatchers. Not quite the spectacle I was hoping for. 

Foo was a little puzzled as to why we have yet to come across the Orange-bellied Leafbird. This beautiful forest jewel is a common sight here. I have been to this site only once before a few years back and I obtained one of my images of this species courtesy of an exceptionally confiding individual. I know what it feels like when you fail to show a regular species at your local patch to a visiting birder. A handsome male on our way back saved Foo the agony. And Foo’s pet bird was a great way to wrapped up things up for this weekend of outstanding birding and great companionship in the heart of Peninsular Malaysia. I owe the success and rewards of this trip to Foo. Without him, photographing a certain migratory ground bird and an endemic game bird will still be very much in my bucket list.