The magic of fruiting trees

Pittas are one of the main targets for Joe’s maiden birding trip to Southeast Asia and for the his second day out with me, we travelled south to the foothill of Bukit Larut in Perak state where he stood a very good chance of bagging his second pitta of the trip. We arrived at the wettest spot in Peninsular Malaysia well after sunrise as the stakeout where the migratory Hooded Pitta frequents is in a gulley with poor lighting. With the current dry spell, there was little worry of the weather turning bad even here in Rain Town. The shooting condition was challenging but when the pitta hopped into view, there was no denying its electrifying presence. After obtaining the mandatory images, both of us paid homage to this striking species by admiring it through our binoculars. I always maintain that a certain degree of intimacy is lost when you only view the bird through digital images. That is why I make it a point to see the birds through my binoculars.

It did not take long for the others patrons to make an appearance at the stakeout. It was unfortunate that a couple of the regulars were absent this time but when there are beautiful forest jewels like the Orange-headed Thrush performing well, the disappointment was a little easier to take in.

The Siberian Blue Robin is not an uncommon winter visitor to Peninsular Malaysia. The male is especially striking and my love affair with this adorable migrant started when I first laid eyes on one along of a forested trail up in Penang Hill. At that time, I have just started go on birding trips on my own. While most teenagers would be recovering from hangovers on a Sunday morning like that, I was gawking at one of my most exciting lifers in the middle of the jungle. I guess back then I was more easily satisfied because the encounter today left me yearning for more due to the lack of any good photographic opportunities.

As soon as we started to explore the rest of the foothill, we came across a small tree that was a centre of bird activities. It turned out to be a fruiting tree and I knew we hit the jackpot. Yesterday, Joe shared with me the almost unreal experience he had at a fruiting berry tree in Costa Rica where almost 40 species were recorded. Well, this is no Costa Rica but a dozen species is still an incredible sight. The Asian Glossy Starling is a common species occurring even in gardens and parks. But it is a striking a bird best view in good lighting. That is when its true splendour will be revealed. I have no complaints about the lighting condition but the density of the foliage of this small tree proved to a big obstacle to all my photographic efforts here. 

Bulbuls formed the majority of the birds patronizing this fruiting tree. The Red-eyed Bulbul is one of the commonest in Peninsular Malaysia. Naturally, there were a number of them gorging on the fruits. Joining them at the feast were Spectacled Bulbuls, Buff-vented Bulbuls and Cinereous Bulbuls. You can say it was a crowded little tree and we were enjoying every minute of it.

Not all the bulbuls here were dull looking like the Red-eyed Bulbul. In fact, one species was the exact opposite. Claimed to be the most attractive bulbul in Malaysia, the Scaly-breasted Bulbul is truly gorgeous.

Whenever they appeared on the fruiting tree, every other species is momentarily out of the picture. All eyes will be on the Scaly-breasted Bulbuls for they cast a spell very few birders can resist.

I will say it again. The obstructing foliage hampered my photographic efforts. I swear to God it appears as if the Scaly-breasted Bulbuls were doing it intentionally. Taunting us with close views but always with some vegetation in between. And the frustration was starting to take its toll on me.

On the other hand, here is the drab Red-eyed Bulbul almost on the same perch but right out in the open. Murphy’s Law or Sod’s Law – call it what you want but it was certainly present today. But this is birding and the challenges we face, though swore upon, makes us into the birders that we are.

Another attractive bulbul that decided to grace the fruiting tree with its radiance was the Black-headed Bulbul. Distinctively coloured and vocal, this species is one of the most conspicuous denizens of our forests as it is not uncommon species.

A single female Greater Green Leafbird joined in the feeding frenzy. Leafbird populations are dropping due to illegal trapping for the bird trade and that is depressing. This family of birds not only looks great but sings just as good. She definitely had my attention during her short visit to the tree.

The fruiting tree literally shook with the arrival of the barbets. It was a small tree and the branches, thin. Most barbets as you know are quite big birds. Four species abandoned the safety of the forest canopy to indulge at this low elevation and both guest and guide were grasping for air at the sight of these spectacular beauties of the forest. Unfortunately, I failed to capture any images of the Blue-eared Barbet, Yellow-crowned Barbet and Gold-whiskered Barbet. They were restless and tend to feed near the centre of the tree where the branches are at their thickest. I faired better with this male Red-throated Barbet. They may not excellent photographs but I am delighted to at least have one species of these often concealed residents of the forest canopy in my memory card.

We continued our quest for birds along the foothill and came across a few more fruiting trees. I was surprised at the lack of flowerpeckers so far here today. Only the Scarlet-backed Flowerpecker and Yellow-vented Flowerpecker offered glimpses of their vivid colouration as they made brief visits for the fruits. Little did I know good old Bukit Larut had something up her sleeves that would make up for the lack in numbers. We spotted a flowerpecker nearby one of the fruiting trees but it was backlighted. But once it started its distinctive sway, I knew which species it was immediately. Further scrutiny not required. No other flowerpecker here in Peninsular Malaysia has this adorable habit of wagging its tail from side to side except for the scarce Thick-billed Flowerpecker. We managed to manoeuvre around the tree and gained the favour of the lighting condition. I am not sure if Joe was just as exhilarated as yours truly. Let’s face it. Apart from the tail wagging, there is not much to shout about the Thick-billed Flowerpecker aesthetically. But for me it is rare enough to get my pulse racing and this one single image that I managed to obtained from the encounter, should be my best effort to date.

All barbets that occur here in Peninsular Malaysia are generally green in colour except for one - the Sooty Barbet. However, I did not expect it to be the barbet that my guest wanted to see most of all among the whole lot. Being different can sometimes be a good thing.

Joe’s interest lies not only in birds. Other wildlife fascinates him as well. Flying lizards are not uncommon in the forests of Malaysia. But seeing one glide for the first time was an intriguing experience for him. Luckily, Singaporean birder Andrew and his group were at the right place to see where the lizard landed. Evolution has provided the lizard with the ability to blend well with its surrounding and locating one in its natural environment can be tedious.

As expected, we came across a few more species of bulbuls at the fruiting trees. The Cream-vented Bulbul may lack the colours of some of the more attractive bulbuls but its confiding nature melted our hearts away.

In terms of aesthetic appeal, the Grey-bellied Bulbul is a strong contender for second place. Its contrasting and vivid plumage colouration was tantalizing to the eyes. And at such close quarters, the experience was incredible.

A flock of Streaked Bulbuls announced their arrival at the fruiting trees by being utterly vocal. Though it may not possess the same appeal as the Grey-bellied Bulbul, it does have an aura of elegance. Couple that with its uncommon status, the Streaked Bulbul is a worthy candidate to conclude our visit to the foothill of Bukit Larut.

To most Malaysian birders, the White-throated Kingfisher is a common bird and often taken for granted. However to a foreign birder like Joe, it is an absolutely incredible bird. The bright colouration and larger-than-life personality demands attention and I have lost count the number of times my overseas guests are smitten by its charm. A confiding individual at the Taiping Lake Gardens naturally had Joe’s attention and no effort was spared to obtain images of this stunning bird. Set against the picturesque landscape of the gardens, I have no doubt he got the images he desired. As for me, I decided to capture the moment when birder and bird formed a momentarily alliance with the latter providing an encounter that will be treasured by the former. (Just in case you missed it, the kingfisher is near the top left corner of the photo)

Our next location of the day was the landfill of Pulau Burung in mainland Penang. I am not sure that the sight and odour from the biggest dumpsite in Penang is the type of experience my guest savours but the birding here certainly was. The Lesser Whistling Ducks were in their usual big numbers. Here within the borders of the landfill, the ducks have found their sanctuary as this is probably their last remaining stronghold in the state.

Black-winged Stilts are such sultry creatures that they still do it for me after all these years. Like the Lesser Whistling Ducks, the marshland surrounding the landfill is one of the few sites left for the resident population in Penang.

Every time I visit this locality, I am overwhelmed by the sheer number of Cattle Egrets present. This species is now one of the most abundant water birds in the state. If a species can adapt to scavenging at rubbish dumps, it will thrive in this day and age. And the Cattle Egret is living proof. Some of the birds present today have moulted into their full breeding plumage and they look just amazing.

Although water birds are the main attraction, species with different lifestyle preferences also seek refuge here. The Blue-tailed Bee-eater is a regular winter visitor here and their graceful aerial sallies are common sight this time of the year. When at rest, it will then impress you with its beautiful plumage. What else can one ask for?

Day two of Joe’s birding adventure here in northern Peninsular Malaysia has exceeded expectations. It was a relief for me. For a seasoned birder like him, it will take more than the usual to impress him and impress him we (mostly the birds and not me) did. To conclude the excursion, I needed a species that will sweep Joe off his feet one last time. He did mentioned that he would love to see an owl. It was a reasonable request and so we made one last stop at a modest park in the suburbs of Bukit Mertajam. This park is home to a pair of Barred Eagle-Owls and it did not take long for me to locate one half of the pair roosting in one of its usual spots. Unfortunately, the chosen perch had the owl obstructed by a few unsightly branches. Unlike yours truly, the Barred Eagle-Owl was a notable lifer for Joe and God knows when he will ever come across one again. Birders are not unknown for their unflinching determination and Joe’s resulted in full-framed, unobstructed shots of this nocturnal predator. And I could not have wished for a better way to call it a day.

Experiences count too

It is customary for me to get to know my guests before we partake on our birding excursions. Apart from being hospitable, it allows me to better plan for the excursion. My latest guest is from the US and is an avid birder. Nothing out of the ordinary until he mentioned he has seen more than 5,000 species of birds, conduct birding tours to Central America and written two birding books about certain species found in the region. To say that I was anxious while on the way to pick up Joe for our first day of birding would be an understatement even though this is his maiden birding trip to Southeast Asia.

On route to our first destination, the mangroves of Sungai Batu in Kedah state, I came to know that Costa Rica is one of his favourite birding destinations where it is not too difficult to surpass 250 species for a big day. Thankfully, it also came to my knowledge that pittas are one of his targets (and almost every other visiting birder as a matter of fact) and I knew exactly where to get one. It was a beautiful morning upon our arrival and soon, we found ourselves in the company of the feathered residents of this swampy domain. One of them is a common but beautiful rail – the White-breasted Waterhen. This species is known to be aggressive at stakeouts but today, it was very well behaved.

Most species were new to my guest and as the lifers started to pour in for him, there was one bird in particular that we were eagerly anticipating its arrival. Like an answered prayer, from the corner of my eye I caught a flash of colours hopping along the muddy terrain and I have enough field experience to tell what bird it was from its jizz. And a quick gesture of the hand had Joe staring at the direction of the approaching Mangrove Pitta.

Joe and I have something in common and that we are both very passionate about birds and birding. His reaction towards his first Asian Pitta is proof why pittas are such remarkable birds and every encounter, magical. Something that I always swear by. It was an exhilarating moment even for someone who has seen almost half of the world’s birds as the Mangrove Pitta revealed its full splendour and charisma right in front of us.

The Little Cormorant is a recent colonizer from Thailand but their numbers are nothing near the Asian Openbills’ phenomenal invasion to our country. It is shy by nature but I found that it can be confiding when sunning itself. I have a soft spot for sizeable water birds and the Little Cormorant fits the criteria. Judging from Joe’s efforts for better shots of this sleek water fowl, I guess we have another thing in common.

The Little Cormorant was surprisingly comfortable despite our intrusion. Soaking in the sun and preening away, this is one of the friendliest Little Cormorants I have ever encountered here in Malaysia.

From there, we made our way further north and as we started our casual trek into the pristine forest of Bukit Wang, the majestic trees of this birding hotspot made quite an impression on Joe. The birds are important to him but sometimes, experiences matter just as much. In the presence of these giants of the natural world, he was in awe. But when the territorial calls of the Chestnut-necklaced Partridge shattered the serenity of the locality, the birds took back the reins as this game bird is one of the rarest bird species in the country. A little effort and luck later, we managed to locate the partridge in the gloomy understorey of the forest. It was a mesmerizing sight. Half hidden among the shadow and undergrowth, the partridge belted out its loud and haunting call. The vocalization is usually the first indication of its presence but unfortunately, it is a sound very few sites in the country have.

The adorable Short-tailed Babblers performed well despite only appearing later in the day. Scurrying around the leaf litter of the forest floor, these terrestrial species is a pure delight to observe and photograph.

Another denizen of the forest understorey is this migratory male Chinese Blue Flycatcher. Spring migration will soon commence and this uncommon migrant may or may not return to this site the next season. Only time will tell.

There was one last location to visit before calling it a day. Things have started to pick up at the swamp forest of Air Hitam Dalam and it was a good choice to wind down after a day of birding. We did not have to wander far before we came across the first notable species of bird. The Square-tailed Drongo-Cuckoo is a regular migrant to this locality. Although it was a distant shot on a manmade perch, the bird possess enough finesse to have our undivided attention.

Then, the unexpected took place. Rain clouds swept in from distant skies and engulfed the vicinity. We took shelter in one of the gazebos overlooking the river as the raindrops fell onto the dry earth with much velocity. It has been more than a month since we last had rain like this and luckily, it was short lived. When it trickled to a stop, the migratory Black Kites started to stir again from their usual roosting trees across the river. When one of these elegant raptors alighted on an exposed to dry itself, it signalled the end of the downpour.

The usually elusive Greater Coucal was out of its comfort zone as it was trying to recover from the unexpected rain. Somehow, the colouration of this beautiful cuckoo set against the dry palm frond made the photo stood out for me. Although this photo lacked quality in certain areas, it has an appeal that I find hard to resist. It could also be due to the fact that we had a few brief encounters with the Greater Coucal earlier in the day in which none offered more than a quick look. But this individual stayed put long enough for even its image to be obtained. Another experience worthy of praise? It certainly was and best of all, it involved a bird.

It was a memorable first day of birding for my American guest. Apart from the birds, other wildlife we encountered throughout the day played their part in the success of the trip. Here at Air Hitam Dalam, the Plaintain Squirrel should be the only species of squirrel to occur. There is a healthy population within the borders of this park and they can be seen on every visit. Its adorable outlook may not work as effectively on a local like me than it would on a foreign visitor. But this image of one just lazing on a tree branch and enjoying the cool post-rain condition is as good as any to wrap things up for the day. Tomorrow we will be heading south and hopefully, be able to maintain today’s momentum of cracking birds and good experiences. That will be covered in my next post.

Rising to the occasion

I have been kept busy during the Chinese New Year period with several excursions with visiting birders. The warm but ideal weather was a welcomed advantage. The only drawback was the usual traffic congestion during the festive season in Penang Island. Like Mother Nature, nothing can be done about that except to factor in additional time for the driving in the Pearl of the Orient. The Bukit DO recreational park is the only site that I prefer it to be crowded during my visits. I have been there often enough with my foreign guests for the regular patrons of the park to recognize me (I guess having a bald head and birding gear makes you stand out) and know my intentions. The resident pair of Barred Eagle-Owls here is an integral part of my birding circuit but despite their size, can hide well if they wanted do. That is when the regular patrons come in useful. Some of them readily point out the roosting owls to me and that saves a lot of time and effort. With my Canadian guests this time, they got to admire the pair side by side courtesy of a couple of ladies on their morning walk. Despite some blockage by the vegetation, the encounter was as exciting as always with any roosting owls.

I have been guiding around northern Peninsular Malaysia close to a decade now and one of my first guests when I first started was Benjamin from Singapore. Through the years, I have showed him particularly everything that needs be seen in this region and beyond. But some uncommon migrants that are showing well now in the forest of Bukit Wang had his attention and I naturally obliged. We timed our arrival when the lighting condition was bright enough for photography and it did not take long to find the first target flickering about the understorey of the forest. I know that this particular male Chinese Blue Flycatcher in my most of postings of late. However, the species is uncommon enough to still have my undivided attention. His vivid colouration set against the gloomy condition of the undergrowth is not something one can easily forget. And due to the fact that he is just a winter visitor, I might as well enjoy it while it lasts.

We spend some time at a few fruiting trees along the access road as there was a high level of bird activity but most of the patrons were flowerpeckers. Unfortunately, the foliage was dense and these tiny forest gems were in a feeding frenzy. My modest photographic equipment could not cope and out of the four species present, I could only obtain a record shot of the Yellow-vented Flowerpecker.

Surprisingly, very few bulbuls were present. In fact, I only recorded one species and it was the Cream-vented Bulbul.

A few flowering trees were in bloom and they were quite a sight. However, my main interest with flowering trees is not due to the beauty of the coloured petals. It is the nectar-feeding birds attracted to the bloom. And today, a Spectacled Spiderhunter was the result of my search among the flowers. I cannot really consider it a search. The spiderhunter was loud and conspicuous as it fed on the sweet offerings. Unfortunately the flowers were at the top most part of the tree and typical of birding in the rainforest, our neck muscles were put to the test. Despite the distance, I am quite happy with how the images turned out and the bright red petals were certainly a contributing factor.

The second target of the trip required some effort and perseverance. The male Green-backed Flycatcher may be confiding but can be restless at times. The dimly lighted understorey of the forest where he frequents is no help at all. Just like the male Chinese Blue Flycatcher, he is also an uncommon migrant and may not return here the next season. And I know better than to take things for granted especially in birding.

Undoubtedly, the Short-tailed Babblers are now a regular feature for any visit to Bukit Wang. Adorable and inquisitive, I have grown fond of these terrestrial birds.

To them, there is no such thing as personal space and they will wander exceptionally close. And I certainly have no issues with that.

For my most recent excursion, I started off with a visit to the mangroves of Sungai Batu with a guest from Belize. Expectations were high. Belize, after all, is a birding paradise and my guest is no stranger to feathered denizens of the tropics. The resident pair of Abbott’s Babbler was the first to appear at the stakeout and they played their role well as appetizers to the main course.

The Yellow-vented Bulbul may not evoke much emotions among local birders due to its common status but to a visiting birder on his maiden trip to Malaysia, it did not go unappreciated.

When the male Mangrove Blue Flycatcher came into the scene, he provided much-needed colours and appeal to our visit here. He has been showing off well of late and today was no exception – much to the delight of both guest and guide.

I have had not much luck recently with the celebrity bird of the locality but when I heard the diagnostic territorial call of the Mangrove Pitta from the depths of the mangroves, I readied my guest for what would be the highlight of the day. When we finally saw the pitta hopping on the muddy terrain towards our direction, it was just mesmerizing. My guest naturally was swept away by the beauty and charisma of the pitta. As for me, I am most grateful to be still able to provide and share moments like this with visiting birders from around the globe.

Swaying their way into the day were the migratory Forest Wagtails of Sungai Batu. Stunning and adorable, they constantly thrill and tease birders with their antics. Judging from the reaction of my guest so far, I think the birding here was up to expectations.

A drive around the surrounding vicinity produced a male Common Kingfisher hunting for breakfast along a canal. Although my guest was originally from England where this is the only species of kingfisher to occur, he never had the chance to photograph the bird. That certainly changed when this particular individual proved to be reasonably confiding.

My guest just so happened to bring up the subject on raptors and the lack of them so far today. Like an answered prayer, I picked out a looming silhouette partly hidden by the foliage. From the shape, I could tell it was a raptor. Upon further scrutiny, it turned out to be a dark morphed Changeable Hawk-Eagle. And our first raptor of the day was this beautiful and impressive eagle. I love it when things work themselves out…

Greater Coucals are impressive birds but despite their common status, they are naturally shy. There are times when this large cuckoo will reveal its true form for all to admire and I have been birding long enough to know that these times are meant to be treasured. The concrete pole may be a manmade perch but to me, it makes no difference. If it is good enough for the coucal, it is sure the hell good enough for me.

Something from behind caught the attention of the Greater Coucal and made it turned around. It must have been something significant because it even tolerated us shifting position as well. When seen in good light, the Greater Coucal is not completely black and the sunlight will bring out hues of blue that is often hidden from view. A relatively common bird in a garden environment but yet able to provide just as exciting an encounter. That is the wonder of birding…

From the mangroves of Kedah, we adjourned to the swamp forest of mainland Penang. Although the Air Hitam Dalam Educational Forest has not been providing as well as it did in the past, in birding one cannot truly know what to expect. The Asian Openbills continue to rest and feed within the borders of this park and these unique birds are always a welcome sight to me.

A pair of Black-thighed Falconets was executing short burst of flight from a tall dead tree as they hunted for flying insects. Being small is always a disadvantage when it comes to photography but like I said in the beginning of this post, it was a sunny day and it was bright enough for me to capture these tiny terror on wings reasonably well.

My guest was not only interested in birds but other wildlife and nature as well. I am naturally tuned to pick out birds and this setback is my own doing. It came as no surprise when he spotted this Green Crested Lizard sunbathing near a spot where an Olive-winged Bulbul just alighted on. Thankfully, this little hiccup was soon to be forgotten.

The final bird of the day certainly left us breathless. It was not an exceptionally spectacular or rare species. But the confiding nature of this particular Square-tailed Drongo-Cuckoo was unbelievable. This species is known to bold at times and I have experienced that trait before. But I find this to be a privilege and one that will still make me as giddy as a schoolboy. Perched on an exposed branch at the edge of the forest, the Square-tailed Drongo-Cuckoo was undoubtedly on the hunt. It was stationary most of the time except for the occasional turn of the head. We could have easily walked past the cuckoo as it was unobtrusive. But like I said, I am naturally tuned for birds.

And if we were any closer, I would not be able to fill it into frame without reducing the magnification of my lens. It was just an incredible moment. In fact, it has been a terrific day of birding. Malaysia is certainly no Belize but I think the birds have done about enough to rise to the occasion. Ending the day with stunning views of the Square-tailed Drongo-Cuckoo was most memorable and almost overshadowed the Mangrove Pitta - almost. Maybe, just maybe, things might be turning around for this local patch of mine. That will certainly be good news because here in northern Peninsular Malaysia, we need all the rewarding birding sites we can get.