Tusker territory....

 The vicinity around the Titiwangsa Rest Stop along the East-West Highway has been recently producing notable records including a number of montane species. Although, it is a two and half hour drive from home, it is now the closest site for montane species and I could do with some montane birding. Together with Hor Kee and Michael, we left the warmth of our beds at an ungodly hour in order to reach this new birding site at the break of dawn. The rest stop sits approximately 1000 meters above sea level and the view is refreshing especially in the mornings when the mountains are still engulfed with mist.

Unfortunately, it is a popular rest area for those traveling from east to west of the peninsular and vice versa. So, it is not exactly my cup of tea. But a spotlight erected at the edge of the rest stop indirectly create a tree full of resting insects at dawn attracted by the light during the night and the birds are well aware of this breakfast buffet. We did not have time to even position ourselves near the tree when the first patrons swooped in from the forest and it was a pair of Sultan Tits. I could not believe our luck. The Sultan Tit is one of the most striking birds you can find in Malaysia and this pair provided the perfect start to our excursion. They showed little fear of our presence and I can only assume the birds here are used to human presence as there is certainly plenty of that at this locality. Even at this hour the car park area was already half full.

The Sultan Tits were restless and active. The tasty insects were the only things on their minds. There were hardly any chance for me to capture them unobstructed by the vegetation despite the close proximity. It was frustrating but the encounter with this stunning forest denizen made the relatively lethargic drive here worth the effort.

It was a long weekend as our National Day fell on the following Monday and that brought in even more travellers than usual. Amidst convoys of superbikes and other vehicles drowning the locality with their presence, I found a momentarily sanctuary here courtesy of a pair of Sultan Tits.

A few female Large Cuckooshrikes decided to join in the feast and their immense size made them rather conspicuous. Like the Sultan Tits, they exhibited a level of bravery I have not come across before and gorged on the insects at a leisurely pace.

The Large Cuckooshrike is not new to me. It is common in montane habitats but it has been almost a year since my last visit to the mountains and the pair offered temporary reprieve until my next visit. However, this birding site is no Fraser’s Hill. I do feel the cool mountain air in my lungs. The presence of several montane species this morning was a welcomed change from the usual lowland species. But the variety of species is simply not here and there are limited areas for birding. And the crowd, especially during holidays like this weekend, bordered my tolerance level.

The bird of the day goes to a family of Large Woodshrikes. They were ridiculously bold and at times, I found it hard to believe that these were wild birds. This is by far my best encounter with the Large Woodshrike. The males, with their more intense colouration, naturally had my immediate attention.

The Large Woodshrikes have a tendency to take a breather while they fed on the insects. This provided me with ample photographic opportunities and I took full advantage of them. Occasionally, I was interrupted by either curious or ignorant fellow human beings walking up to my position. Lucky for me, the interruption did not deter the Large Woodshrikes from feasting here.

The females were just as photogenic despite lacking some of the radiance of the males. The flock came and went frequently and each visit was hardly brief. So, I managed to shower the ladies with some affection at the end of it all.

One female had quite distinct pale fringing on the crown and back and as well as a paler bill. It is an indication that it is a juvenile bird rather than a female. Following the manner of the adult birds, it was also exceptional confiding.

The concentration of insects at the vicinity offered a family of Black-thighed Falconets with a relatively easy source of food. Although this tiny raptor usually prefer to take insect prey, little birds are also known to fall prey to it. From the look of things here, all the birds present seem to get along well enough.

A few common lowland birds have followed the humans up to this elevated outpost like the Yellow-vented Bulbul.

Eurasian Tree-Sparrows also opted for cooler living conditions and have settled in well here.

It was no surprise to come across a pair of Asian Fairy-Bluebirds as it occurs from the lowlands up to the mountains. The male was shy as usual leaving only the female to provide me with this one record shot.

These hornbill statues although not quite that visually appealing to me made sense as these incredible birds are present in the locality. Well, at least I can take comfort it is not a statue of a toucan instead of a hornbill.

Birds are not the only wildlife thriving along this forested highway. Asian Elephants find refuge here as well. In fact, this is one of the main strongholds of these majestic beasts. It would be exhilarating to catch a glimpse of them in the wild. But trekking vulnerably along a trail, fresh dung and pugmarks will definitely be sufficient enough for me. There are very few animals one needs to truly fear in the wilds of Malaysia and this tusker is one of them.

To end my post this time is a photo of some Bamboo Orchid flowers basking in the morning sun. I did some online research and apparently, this plant is also known as the Tapah Weed. I would not associate it to any kind of weed but then again, when it comes to plants, there is much that I still need to learn.

Island Life

Though not a true tropical paradise island, Penang Island has always been home for me. The traffic congestion and unbelievable rate of development is part of the norm here. On the other hand, so is the delectable food and colourful culture. In terms of birding, the Pearl of the Orient usually provides only mediocre affairs. However, once in a long while, something significant will pop up and restores my faith. And this time, that something significant popped up outside one of the busiest malls in Penang – the renowned Gurney Plaza.

Among the species of pigeons that occur here in Malaysia, a few are only found on islands. The Pied Imperial-Pigeon is one of them. Although this elegant bird is not new to me, it has been years since I last saw one. For the past days, a few have been regularly sighted on the trees outside the mall and showed little fear of human presence. With an hour to kill on a beautiful Saturday morning, I decided to try luck. By the time I arrived it was mid-morning. It was no surprise to find other birders present as the Pied Imperial-Pigeon is not commonly encountered in Malaysia. And they pointed out to me one of the three birds present today. It was resting in a shady spot among the foliage of one of the trees. Looking absolutely comfortable, the pigeon was unlikely to shift position anytime soon and I had to settle for this less than ideal image.

Catching up with my fellow birders helped to pass the time as we waited for a better photographic opportunity. The commoner birds present also played their part to keep me occupied like this ragged looking Collared Kingfisher.

A few Little Egrets were present as well and one was just enjoying the cool sea breeze while soaking up the warm rays of the morning sun. This, ladies and gentlemen, is island life.

However, the egrets are outnumbered by the Striated Herons here as the latter are doing well in coastal vicinities throughout the island.

When one of the Pied Imperial-Pigeons shifted position, it was the moment everyone was waiting for including yours truly. And the timing could not have been better. The lighting condition grew harsher by the moment and the weekend crowd have started to throng to the mall. Our presence with our gear and all, drew the usual stares and that is one of the things that irritates me when birding in a crowded area. But the pigeon drown out all of that by alighting on some dead branches to reveal its true appeal. And it was certainly a beautiful bird. And my faith in birding on the island was definitely restored...

It remained there for a few minutes before joining a second bird in flight and disappeared among some tall trees in a distance. I got the shot that I wanted and with the noon hour approaching, there was little point to linger here anymore.

The shoreline of Gurney Drive is a known stronghold of the Black-crowned Night-Heron for as long as I could remember. Despite all the destruction of habitat in the vicinity, the population endured. As I made my way home, it was nice to see such a beautiful water bird along a popular coastal boulevard like this in full view of everyone. However, exactly how many actually realise the existence of this bird in their proximity is anyone’s guess.

Hornbill heaven

It has been nearly three months since I last had the fresh countryside air passed through my lungs. As I made my approach with two like-minded birding companions to a forest reserve  in Kedah State, I inhaled deeply to savour the moment. With the COVID-19 pandemic lockdown finally coming to an end, we were able to travel interstate again and the forest sites here in Kedah are far more rewarding than the ones in my home state of Penang. We timed our arrival to coincide with the breaking of dawn. As the mist lifted, the dawn chorus started to fill the vicinity.

Initially, the call was faint and not its signature territorial call. But it was definitely a Helmeted Hornbill – the most amazing hornbill species here in Malaysia and perhaps, even the world. Sadly, it is also one of the rarest. The Helmeted Hornbill has a territorial call like no other but the call does not echo throughout tropical rainforests as often as it used to. We desperately scanned the distant forest canopy for a glimmer of hope. And then, the mist that lingered just above the trees parted to reveal a Helmeted Hornbill in all its glory. It turned out to a female told by the pale throat and she powered across the skyline with her beautiful long tail in toll. It has been years since my last sighting of a Helmeted Hornbill and only heaven knows when I will be given the privilege again. This majestic bird has been hunted to near extinction because it is the only hornbill with a solid casque and this avian “ivory” has a value no poacher can resist. I think I speak for all birders that the sight of a Helmeted Hornbill living free in the wild is beyond any material value.

A pair of Common Hill-Mynas was getting ready to start off the day as well. This is another bird that is in demand in the bird trade. Its charming character and the ability to mimic sounds including human speech is the cause of its downfall. However, it is not endangered like the Helmeted Hornbill and remains relatively common in suitable habitats.

Patches of long grass next to the access road that runs across the forest reserve is refuge to the Rufescent Prinias and their vocal nature makes these warblers conspicuous. One was belting out its territorial call from a lofty perch to enhance its audible reach and it certainly reached our ears.

I did not manage to take as many photos as I had anticipated. Do not get me wrong. The forest was teeming with birds. It is just the lack of good photographic opportunities. Chestnut-necklaced Partridge, Crested Shrikejay and Hooded Pitta are always good records for any birding excursion. And to walk through the forest here again after such a long time was uplifting to say the least.

A pair of Oriental Pied Hornbills was showing their offspring the ways of the world when I crossed path with the family. The young one, as usual, was much more confiding (or should it be naive) and provided time for me to obtain a record shot. Today has been exceptional for hornbills. Great Hornbills, White-crowned Hornbills, a flock of 10 Plain-pouched Hornbills and the fantastic encounter with the Helmeted Hornbill at first light made it 5 species from a single locality.

The Mountain Imperial Pigeon can wander far and wide in search of food. Mostly found in higher elevations, it is not rare to see this stunning pigeon at this low elevation as well.

One of the commonest woodpeckers here is the Banded Woodpecker. Typical of woodpeckers, it is a striking bird despite its status. However, the distance and lighting offered no assistance to help prove my point.

At the edge of the lake, a Black-winged Kite was perched elegantly against a stunning blue backdrop and it was a mesmerizing sight. I cannot recall having seen this raptor here before but it is a welcomed addition to my ever-growing checklist of the birds of Kedah State. 

Wild boars do not normally stand their ground and stare back at you. This one did and I know better than to try to find out the reason behind this bold behaviour for it can be a dangerous one if it wanted to. It is also the only big mammal that can still be regularly encountered in Peninsular Malaysia.

Next on today’s agenda is a twitch for a Malaysian first record. You would normally think I would have done the twitching mission in the morning to increase my success rate. Well to be begin with, the twitch took me to, of all places, the semi-open air ticketing building at Kuala Perlis for the ferry shuttle to Langkawi. Time was also no longer an issue as you are more or less guaranteed of not dipping out. A group of birders from Penang while waiting to board their ferry came across some strange-looking sparrows before the lockdown and they turned out be House Sparrows – a species that has been expected to turn up in Malaysia eventually. Anyway, the Records Committee accepted these House Sparrows as genuine colonizers and that made them ‘tickable’ for my Malaysian life list. 

As soon as our group entered the building with birding gears and all, we drew the usual stares from the locals. The House Sparrows are known to roost along the structural beams of the building but all we could find were Java Sparrows. These gorgeous sparrows were also recorded by the birders on the day they discovered the ‘rarity’. So, their presence came as no surprise. But their numbers certainly were. Their origin may be in question but the Java Sparrows are settling in very well here.

I thought our twitch for Malaysia’s first House Sparrows would be a short and easy one. However, we could not find a single one within the building. Although the Eurasian Tree Sparrow is a different species altogether, the age-old saying of birds of a feather flock together might still be applied here. I then decided to scrutinize the flocks of Eurasian Tree Sparrows foraging next to the building and it worked like a charm. Almost immediate, I spotted my Malaysian lifer on a grassy patch together with a few Eurasian Tree Sparrows.

The House Sparrow is not new to me. I have recorded it during my visit to Cambodia. Now that I have obtained a record shot, I should be on my way to the next location but I could not. I wanted to spend more time observing this male House Sparrow. Chances are I will not make another trip all the way here for it again. It was relatively easy to follow his movement and I managed to obtain better images while doing so.

I have been to this ferry terminal twice before. I knew there were Eurasian Tree Sparrows present which is typical of built-up areas like this. The question is did I overlooked the House Sparrows then? Being almost the same size and colouration as the Eurasian Tree Sparrow, it is highly possible. This locality is not exactly a place frequented by birders and the birds could have gone unnoticed for a long time.

Once the first House Sparrow revealed itself, we started recording more of its kin. At least 10 birds were seen at the end of it all and some are back to resting along the beams of the building where they were supposed to be in the first place.

A pair of Common Mynas trying to figure out what the fuss is all about...

Our next and last destination took us to the paddy fields just outside the Alor Setar Airport. Last season, a pair of Black Bitterns decided to breed among the patches of dense vegetation and we were hoping to catch them here again.

Unfortunately we did not manage to locate these sleek water birds. And in their stead, a few Yellow Bitterns provided the highlight of our visit here.

One individual was an absolute cracker as it was sporting a full breeding plumage. I assumed it is a male because he was quite a showboat and frequently launched himself after other Yellow Bitterns as part of nuptial displays or territorial disputes.

All bitterns rely heavily on blending into the surroundings as their main form of defence. And facing their threat straight with their head tilted upwards usually strengthens their effort to remain undetected. Not this time though ‘cos I can still see you, bud...

One Pond-Heron was finding it hard to leave our warm Malaysian hospitality and still lingered around instead of making its way back up north to breed.

Unlike most paddy fields in the state of Kedah, there were relatively few Asian Openbills present. Maybe it is just a coincidence. Anyway, this once rare stork wrapped things up for my first interstate birding in months. My country’s fight to overcome this virus may well be ending soon but the pandemic left a devastating aftermath. Some have lost loved ones. Others, their source of income. That struggle, is far from over. I would love to say that I am not affected by the economic crisis we now face. However, I will taking things one day at a time and be thankful for what I have been given.